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OK, first off do not reuse crush sleeves any time you are switching the R&P, you are never going to get anything right doing it like that. Synthetic gear lube also does not tear up gears if they’ve been set up and broken in properly, I’ve run it in plenty of stuff anf never had an issue.
But back to the gears at hand…
I haven’t laid hands on any of this and I believe that a huge part of gear setup is feel so take all this with a grain of salt…
First off the fact that both of your first pictures seemed to show a drastically different coast pattern heel to toe at different spots on the same gear is not a great sign. To me that indicates either a parts or install issue that has the pinion loose, the ring gear off center or some kind of thickness/machining rule or even a problem with the carrier.
Did you press the ring gear onto the carrier or pull it on with the bolts? Did you check the pattern in different spots on the ring gear when you did the initial install? Was it consistent around the gear then? How about the backlash? Was it the consistent around the gear? What was the backlash number you got? Also, what did the drive side pattern look like? New carrier or the old one?
I don’t think the gears are dead but there is very likely an issue with something. Clean them up and look to see if there is any galling or heat damage, if not they should still be OK after proper setup.
If it were mine I would go back to square one and remember that with gears one change effects all the other measurements. If you move the pinion or ring gear to get the pattern right it can change the backlash and you may need to move the ring gear. Do it again from the start and, if at all possible, do it out of the car.
Good luck and keep us posted, gears can be super frustrating.
[quote=”cap269″ post=143728]I have five types of gloves in my garage.
1) 5 mil Nitrile disposable gloves,
2) general duty leather work gloves like these,
3) the “dotted” mesh gloves like these,
4) a pair of Mechanix gloves, and
5) Perhaps my new favorites, Wells Lamont nitrile-coated work gloves that I found at Costco. 12 pairs came in the box. EDIT: I just found them on Amazon also.
They look like this:
[/quote]I am a big fan of the cotton gloves with the little traction knobs on them myself.
I use those and nitrile gloves mostly. I use the thicker 7 or 9 mil ones usually because I work with lots of stuff that is hard on the gloves. However, I think I am going to try those nitrile coated ones you posted for heavy work; they look pretty awesome.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=143807][quote=”cap269″ post=143778][quote=”wafrederick” post=143771]Have no use for them,can’t feel a thing wearing them.[/quote]
I used to feel that way too. Kinda like condoms, LOL. But, now I consider them just as important as any other tool. They prevent a range of injuries to the hands, practically eliminate skin exposure to chemicals, not to mention making for cleaner hands and fingernails after the job is done.[/quote]
I have no issues with that,I can use the parts washer bare handed without a problem.[/quote]Just because you can does not mean you should. Depending on the type of solvent that you use that can be a really, really terrible idea when it comes to your long-term health.
I think that it is interesting that I read so much about mechanics concerned about being able to physically do the work and declining health after years in the field but so many people also have so little regard for chemical safety and taking care of their own body at work.
Go to a local engine rebuilder and have them do it for you.
If turn time for the rebuild is an issue for you see if they can provide you a core or pick up a junkyard motor and have it rebuilt locally. It will cost a little more but you will get a better product and have local support. Plus you will establish a relationship you that will benefit you in the long run if you continue to do this type of work.
For as little as they cost I would just change the cap and rotor to eliminate the ignition system completely.
After that I would move on to the suggested fuel system troubleshooting mentioned above.
As long as you used decent plugs and have them gapped properly I really doubt that is the issue.
[quote=”bsquared5150″ post=143664]1st I’d try a new 23mm bolt. If the end of the crank was case hardened the previous owner actually used up the One Shot Fix. The 23mm likely broke through the hardened surface of the threads (I can’t remember for sure but I think it is like max .010″ but likely .002″ – .005″ for case hardening 4mm blows way through that). It tightened when they did it but, it was only (likely) going to do it once. I’d did a timing belt on a civic and the harmonic balancer almost stopped me. I bent extensions out of round but the 5 ft cheater pipe started ad 12 o’clock and the bolt didn’t break loose until I got to nine. Those things get real tight. As far as the drill/tap it would still be a do it once and the next time the HB comes off, re-tap. Likely have to pull the crank and get it on a milling machine to do the drill/tap. You might be able to give the old 23mm bolt to someone with a lathe and they may be able to make you one. That would likely be, next time the HB is pulled = new crank. All of those may be really expensive compared to an engine swap or a new crank. If the car was actually worth $450 (hopefully more) an engine swap shouldn’t be out of the question.[/quote]
Why would you need to ever re-tap te threads if you repair it like that if you tap to the correct size or use an insert?
Basically, you’re boned.
Sounds like stripped threads in the crank and that is going to be a difficult repair for a lot of reasons.
First off I am not sure of the specifics of that crank but it may, or may not, be hardened in that area. Many cranks are only hardened in the bearing journals but some are hardened in other places. Depending on how, where and to what degree it has been hardened it may be difficult, but not impossible, to tap just from a tooling point of view.
Then you also have the factor of how difficult setup is going to be and that is dependent on how much room you have in the engine bay. Crank bolts are actually not often a super high precision thing, they usually just provide flat clamping force and do not have a precise fit on the diameter of the bolt do you do not have to be perfect on center, but you do need to be straight on the bore of the hole or you will have uneven clamping force putting strain on the bolt.
Do you have enough room to get a drill on the front of the crank in a manner that you are confident you can drill a straight hole? Do you have room to get a tap handle in on it that you can turn easily?
If you do carefully drill it out to either the next thread size or the proper size for a threaded insert for the OE bolt. Once it is drilled out get a HIGH-QUALITY tap and gently tap the hole. Be careful not the break the tap because of you do like Eric said you are really boned. They do make a tool for removing broken tapes but they are expensive and, honestly, only work about 60% of the time.
If you mess it up you are pulling the engine and swapping cranks; then again you are going to have to do that anyway in this situation so how much effort do you want to put into maybe saving yourself a lot of time and money?
[quote=”joezmam367″ post=143575]I’m taking my good calipers home today and I’ll get some pictures to post.
I just thought about this, but do you think i could redrill the OE size if i filled the holes with JB weld?
i remember for some compression molds (which are heated and produce a good amount of steam) i used to do for a company, it was their best friend when a bench hand would over grind something, i cant every remember them having any issues with it.[/quote]JB-Weld may work but it is never going to be a sure thing.
They make an insert for the OE threads, they make one for EVERY thread just about. Look at Grainger, Mc Master Carr or another industrial/machine supply house; they will have what you need.
That A/C bracket needs to come off the front of the head. I think you *could* get it out by removing the 2-3 bolts that hold it to the head and sneak the head out but it is probably just as easy to pull the whole bracket. I think there are a couple of bolts that go into the front of the block as well as the head on that mount but I am far from sure.
If it were me I would pull the fan to make getting to the front of the bracket easier. You should be able to just pull the bolts and lay the whole bracket and compressor over to the side without opening the A/C lines.
Be sure you have the bottom row of head bolts out, the ones not under the valve cover on the exhaust side can be hard to see with the manifild still in pace.
Also, were all of the manifold fasteners for the exhaust bolts? Sometimes they will be a stud and you can’t get the head out without pulling the manifold completely off.
It really depends on the application for me and if I lock or lube threads is based on personal experience.
First off I think it is important to remember that if there is a torque spec unless it is listed otherwise the torque listed is generally for clean dry threads and using a lube or locker can skew your torque reading.
I, personally, tend to stay away from anti-seize because I find it to be annoyingly messy and in all but the highest heat applications I don’t think it works any better than lightly greased threads for keeping things from locking in place.
It’s a nice round number and generally it is easy to hold the engine from spinning at that pressure. I would not use more than 100psi because it may make it harder to hold the engine from moving and if that movement happens there is a good chance it will be violent.
I remember from school that aircraft engines use 80psi for a leakdown test; they generally have a much larger bore diameter. The math was harder but putting 100psi in one was kinda hard to hold if the crank got to one side of center.
Just to get some clarification on this…
-The wheel stud is spinning in the hub, correct? Is it just one or several of them?
-You said it was a new hub and rotor? I think your van has a rotor where the hub and the rotor are one piece, correct?
-Did the new hub/rotor come with the studs pressed in?
[quote=”tryingnot” post=143438]Thanks for sharing everyone. A few things have changed, I raised my prices a bit still fair but cheeper then the 70$ an hour shops.
[/quote]If you are mobile you should be ABOVE shop rate, not below it. It costs more and takes more time to do it work in the field over in the shop. I have been primarily a road tech for years and almost everywhere I worked and when I was doing my own thing road service billed above shop work. Doing the work onsite is a added value to the customer.
How are you charging your travel?
I don’t think that the N/A engine is going anywhere but I do think that we are going to see more and more turbo engines as time goes on.
It’s combination of the technology finally being able to make to make them just about as reliable as a N/A engine and people finally having forgotten the truly terrible turbo motors of the early 80’s.
Turbos are a great thing when taken care of but consumer memory made the very unpopular for a long long time after the early turbo cars were just giant buckets of fail