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I agree with the overall sentiment of the video; an experienced mechanic really doesn’t need a torque wrench for every fastener. If they do I can’t help but question both their level of experience and/or ability to produce. Of course I also have big doubts about people who NEVER use a torque wrench…
That said I am going to have a ‘torque nazi’ moment about your video. If you’ve had those Snap On torque wrench (and they are nice ones, I have a couple) where are the calibration tags?
Just as important as having a quality torque wrench and knowing when to use it is making sure it’s properly maintained and in calibration.[quote=”frious” post=144062]first of all im not a mechanic im a parts changer. so i tried to use some common sense and started changing parts to solve the problem one by one. well that did not work. so i put it in the shop and they said head gasket needed to be changed . they did that and and cleaned water jackets etc. after that it still got hot after getting off the freeway after about 8 miles. so then we changed out the upper cat cause it was plugged also. but it still gets hot after getting on the freeway. everything has been changed on this truck and flushed and cleaned. i think its air flow issue or water flow issue. like i said im not a mechanic. but all the mechanics i have taken it too keep hitting and missing at my expense lol. truck seems to do ok as long as you dont get on freeway. i hope i have met your questions. thanks for your help.[/quote]
So basically you wasted a lot of money guessing at stuff and then somebody replaced the head gaskets?
WHY did they replace the head gaskets?
Sounds like they never got the system bleed properly but it’s hard to try to diagnose something when you don’t have any info for us
I feel like there is so much more to this story than you are telling us…
People usually are not rude to you unless you have given some reason to be so I do have to wonder with what kind of attitude you are approaching the service department. While there are exceptions to the rule I find people usually receive back the attitude they present to the service department. Food for thought.
There is also the whole issue of the car being under warranty but the dealer trying to sell you services; if the car is under warranty you should present them with the issue and they should solve it. End of story. Why are they charging you for stuff?
It is also really impossible to tell you what is going on with the coil or connector with no info on what the car is.
Unless you got tons in there I agree they should not be an issue. If it makes you feel better you can do an oil change but I don’t think multiples is necessary.
OK, first question is WHY were each of those items replaced? What stuff did you find already that lead you to changing all those parts and replacing the head gaskets? The symptoms or diagnostic results from the tests that led to those choices may hold the clue to somebody here seeing a suggestion.
So what has been done to clean the block and coolant passages? Anything?
Have you tried a good cooling system flush and/or pouring some CLR into the block?
Really the only thing that is left is some kind of coolant flow issue so look for that.
Does it overheat only while driving or under load or will it get hot just sitting there idling?
Have you confirmed the thermostat is opening? How?
Have you checked inlet vs. outlet temp in the radiator?
Not to beat the proverbial dead horse if you have already but did you check all 4 brakes and/or the emergency brake? Dragging rear brakes will cause a pull as well.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=143898][quote=”notoriousDUG” post=143884][quote=”wafrederick” post=143883]Do this fix,switch the front tires side to side and real simple to do this.Check the toe also and you can do this with a tape measure,if within an 1/8th of inch the toe is good.[/quote]
the OP mentioned rotating the tires and no improvement in the origional post.[/quote]
Switching tires side to side fixes this sometimes[/quote]…
You mean like rotating them?
Yes, it should run with one coil pack disconnected but I am confused; why did you replace the coil yourself if the car was still under warranty?
Which also kinda dovetails into the question of why the dealer is going to charge you for diagnosing something when the car is under warranty?
I think they should just be able to reconnect the wire or are they saying it has a open in the wire?
That looks like an existing lousy repair that is coming apart, there is probably nothing good under that.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=143883]Do this fix,switch the front tires side to side and real simple to do this.Check the toe also and you can do this with a tape measure,if within an 1/8th of inch the toe is good.[/quote]
the OP mentioned rotating the tires and no improvement in the origional post.
Yes, the trans fluid does go through the radiator, there are lines inside the tank to cool the trans oil as it goes through them.
If you have trans fluid in the coolant you have a ruptured line and need to STOP DRIVING THE CAR IMMEDIATELY!
Once the trans line ruptured it not only allows trans oil into the cooling system but it allows coolant into the transmission and severe damage WILL occur. Basically the coolant gets hot and literally steams the friction material off the clutches in the trans.
When you change the radiator change the trans oil and flush the lines and system.
[quote=”bsquared5150″ post=143751]I said the 23mm bolt was a One Shot Fix. I would guess that the previous owner stripped both the bolt and the hole threads. I don’t know for sure but, case hardening is likely the best way to harden a crank since it would be less likely to cause warping. However, case hardening doesn’t go very deep only about .002″ – .005″. When it was first stripped the hardening was destroyed. It’s like the metal under it has had nothing done to it. Because of that, the previous owner “got lucky” by putting in a bolt with oversize threads. It worked because it cut some new and unknown size thread in soft steel (it blew right through what was left of the hardened material). So in other words it’s scrapped.
No matter what is done from here on out it’s a one time fix. The hardness of the metal has been greatly reduced. Whatever is done, heli-core or drill and tap, when the bolt comes out next time it will destroy whatever has been done. The metal in the crank just can’t take the stress. I highly doubt that it is possible to torque the bolt to OEM spec no matter what is done. The now soft metal in the bolt hole will relax/soften when it gets hot and the bolt will slowly torque up but, when the bolt is removed it will strip the threads.[/quote]
The threads themselves were very likely not hardened at all. Most cranks use induction hardening and that does not get the bolt holes really. But regardless of that just because it is not hardened does not mean the bolt is going to pull out threads. If that was the case head bolts in iron block motors would have ruined threads after every use.