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Dean Bibby

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • in reply to: Rapid Roadside Assistance: Tips on quick-fixes #880428
    Dean BibbyDean Bibby
    Participant

      I’m hearing all these experienced Techs telling you over and over NO Don’t go there!
      There be very bad consequences for you personally.
      Your heart is in the right place but are hearing the sage advice?

      in reply to: Binding diff in Subaru Forester #856513
      Dean BibbyDean Bibby
      Participant

        Please go back to STAY DIRTY LOUNGE/SERVICE AND REPAIR ANSWERS HERE and read the 2nd and third postings on the page in the the light blue area.
        Also it is considered good etiquette to at least poke the thank you button at the bottom left corner of a post when someone takes the time to answer your question.

        in reply to: Video topic request #856509
        Dean BibbyDean Bibby
        Participant

          Outskirtscustoms Have you posted these photos and the some of the work you have already done on the ” What Are You Working On?” page?
          Also I am a member on the Honda CR-V club.
          There may be a Buick LeSabre club or a Hearse restoration club out there in the virtual community.

          in reply to: Video topic request #856506
          Dean BibbyDean Bibby
          Participant

            OOOOh it’s beautiful!
            PLEASE please post lots of photos documenting everything you do with the restoration of this grand old lady.

            in reply to: Rotors, brake pads and calipers #856503
            Dean BibbyDean Bibby
            Participant

              Dafirnz. I agree completely!
              Metcalf101 by rusty did you mean seized? ( not retracting after braking)
              My 11 year old calipers were rusty on the outside, so when I did brake service last fall I scuffed up the rust, cleaned with a blast of brake cleaner spray. I sprayed the bracket and piston housing with a rust sealer, and then three coats of barbeque black for it’s good heat resistance qualities. Once that is dry and fully cured (hardened) you could scuff up that finish and spray can paint them whatever color you want.
              It’s now finally spring here and when changed my wheels from winter to summer I noticed the calipers are still shiny black.

              Dean BibbyDean Bibby
              Participant

                WHAT A FABULOUS PROJECT!
                The engine looks like new and I’ll bet it runs like that in the Toyota too!
                Now this is what I call entertainment! You do all the work and I simply sit back and enjoy it!
                Thanks for sharing son!

                in reply to: I own a 2000 Honda Accord Sedan 5 Speed Manual #856487
                Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                Participant

                  I have owned a 2000 Accord. Since you live in a RUST BELT state this series of the Accord are known to prematurely rust out the ‘K-Frame’ that supports all the suspension parts in the front end. Consequently if you don’t know what condition your ‘K-Frame’ is in when you { go busting a move} just for fun well…. just sayin BEWARE!

                  in reply to: Rotors, brake pads and calipers #856484
                  Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                  Participant

                    I am not a mechanic or an experienced DIYer but I will share the research I have found so far.
                    There are many manufacturers of brake components who also supply to the so called OEM brands.
                    STOPTECH provide some very good technical knowledge. Online go to…
                    stoptech.com
                    Technical Support
                    Technical White Papers
                    Understanding Braking Experiences
                    Technical Guides
                    What the engineers there share is not sales hype rubbish but real knowledge such as … Brake rotors are cast iron they do not warp under extreme braking.
                    Uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the contact surface of the rotors causes the phenomena of pulsating, juddering, vibrating brakes.

                    in reply to: 2004 HONDA CR-V L4 2.4Ltr. iVETEC #855578
                    Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                    Participant

                      It is + 10*F at 9:00 PM up here, in April no less! The PRINCESS I call “Winter” has started without the oil being preheated.
                      We shall see If “Winter” takes me to work tomorrow morning at about 6:00 AM or I have to call a cab to go to work driving a Dodge Grand Caravan cab modified for wheelchair accessibility. It can be quite the PRINCESS too sometimes.
                      Yeah too much information right?
                      I’m beginning to understand Eric’s feeling of nostalgia when he drives Oliver.
                      My dad had a 79 Fairmont just after his 144 Volvo floor pan rusted right through. There was hole the size of a pizza plate on my mom’s side!
                      As long as he kept the ignition system tuned that car never let them down!
                      Good night;
                      The northerner

                      in reply to: Scotty Kilmer, mechanic or shill? #855576
                      Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                      Participant

                        Friend this is still just Scotty’s opinion.
                        I do not swap my snow tires back to front each winter for a specific reason.
                        They are two different brands with different tread patterns
                        They are on a 2004 HONDA CR-V with the REAL TIME 4WHEEL DRIVE…. meaning if one or both of the front wheels break traction then the rear differential engages the rear wheels which is where I have placed the winter tires with the most aggressive (knobby) treads.
                        The front wheels are less aggressive (quieter) but have great sipping for the best side grip on wet surfaces.
                        However this is just my opinion concerning my decisions for my car in my climate.
                        The northerner.

                        in reply to: 2004 HONDA CR-V L4 2.4Ltr. iVETEC #855564
                        Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                        Participant

                          It would fire with ether sprayed into the throttle body but not run.
                          I have let the car sit with the intake snorkel off and the throttle body butterfly wide open to air out the engine since I could smell a strong fuel odor.
                          At 3:30 the engine started at an ambient temperature of -9*C / +16*F .

                          Initially at no start condition the Scanner reported P0365, P0340 MIL codes & one pending P1457 evap sys code.

                          After starting and warm up I now have an additional pending code P0171.
                          It will be left with it’s In block oil heater plugged in until the ambient temp. drops to +16*F or below and then see if it will start.
                          Thanks for your assistance;
                          The northerner { intrepid think I am!} 😉

                          in reply to: Scotty Kilmer, mechanic or shill? #855554
                          Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                          Participant

                            Wow 9 pages of responses!
                            Ok well heres my 2 cents.
                            Speaking strictly for all newbie DIYers, we should all really thankfully appreciate any info we are being offered FREE OF CHARGE!
                            If you really don’t like someone’s style of presentation well that’s just a minor difference of personal opinion.
                            Surely one could simply choose not to view that persons offerings ever again rather than malign him or her in any way!
                            This the view from the North.

                            in reply to: 2005 MAZDA TRIBUTE stalls after cold start #854871
                            Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                            Participant

                              Mr. NO_COMMOM_SENSE & Mr. CAMMED 05 I must commend you both for your willingness and skill in talking a complete novice DIYer through some very deep water. I think you succeeded in getting one very grateful lady nurse back on the road.

                              Well done gentlemen!!!

                              Eva gives you each a virtual hug. 😀

                              in reply to: 2005 MAZDA TRIBUTE stalls after cold start #854795
                              Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                              Participant

                                Mr. NO_COMMON_SENSE sir Or who ever is willing,if you have the time, one final question please.
                                Does the battery have to be disconnected to install a fuel pump driver module or is it enough to just clear the codes first?

                                The part cost $152.00 CDN

                                Yeah I know we Canadians always pay end up paying more for everything. I guess we are to polite for our own good in this matter.

                                The (polite) Northerner

                                in reply to: 2005 MAZDA TRIBUTE stalls after cold start #854641
                                Dean BibbyDean Bibby
                                Participant

                                  I say I think we have narrowed it down but I don’t really know for sure. I just tried starting it after it had cooled down ,,, nope. It is 24*F / -4*C this evening. I don’t think it would hurt to throw a new part into it just for fun. If I can avoid the towing and the mechanics shop that would be a big success for us.

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