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Thanks guys.
It is awfull cold here at the moment (minus 20 centigrades).
It could of course just be water vapours condensing in the engine and thus creating the same “coffe with cream symptom” but without simultaneously loss of power and/or overheating.
HeHe. I was so ready to take the engine a part.
I will just monitor the symptoms.
No, it was only “coffee with cream” on the cap. The rest of the oil was solid black. Yes, this is a secondary car, so it is only used for shorter trips around town.
Thanks guys.
It is awfull cold here at the moment (minus 20 centigrades).
It could of course just be water vapours condensing in the engine and thus creating the same “coffe with cream symptom” but without simultaneously loss of power and/or overheating.
HeHe. I was so ready to take the engine a part.
I will just monitor the symptoms.
No, it was only “coffee with cream” on the cap. The rest of the oil was solid black. Yes, this is a secondary car, so it is only used for shorter trips around town.
Hi, I had similar problems when replacing and overhauling brakes and calipers on all four wheels.
I have described my experience in this forum – and a part of my problem might have been trapped air in the ABS-system. But I am some 2 hours from a work shop with VW scan tool so I just used “poor mans VAG-COM (VW scan tool)” AKA driving like crazy getting the ABS-system to kick in.
But very nice that You managed to solve the problem. Brakes can indeed be annoying, but I suppose they are good to have around.
Hi, I had similar problems when replacing and overhauling brakes and calipers on all four wheels.
I have described my experience in this forum – and a part of my problem might have been trapped air in the ABS-system. But I am some 2 hours from a work shop with VW scan tool so I just used “poor mans VAG-COM (VW scan tool)” AKA driving like crazy getting the ABS-system to kick in.
But very nice that You managed to solve the problem. Brakes can indeed be annoying, but I suppose they are good to have around.
I don’t think CarFax is international – I have never of heard of it here before.
I got the receipt today.
Replacement of:
– front fender
– front fender beam
– radiator
– AC radiator with refilling of AC gasNo mention of any body work.
So this should be great?
I don’t think CarFax is international – I have never of heard of it here before.
I got the receipt today.
Replacement of:
– front fender
– front fender beam
– radiator
– AC radiator with refilling of AC gasNo mention of any body work.
So this should be great?
Park the car on a clean and dry spot. Depress the brake pedal with a spngy/bent stick so that the stick will provide continously pressure to the brake pedal. Go take a cup of coffee. Then check under the car for little pools of brake fluid, check the interior part of the rims for brake fluid and (if possible) check along the brake lines for wet spots (leakage through a little rust hole in the brake line).
It looks like you either have an internal or external master cylinder leakage. Check floor matting under the pedals for wet spots and check the area around and under the master cylinder in the engine compartment. If leakage in any of thees spots, then you have an external master cylinder leakage, and you could probably solve the problem by just replacing the master cylinder external seals.
Otherwise you hava an internal leakage. Replace the master cylinder so that you will have all the time you need to rebuild your old one.
Park the car on a clean and dry spot. Depress the brake pedal with a spngy/bent stick so that the stick will provide continously pressure to the brake pedal. Go take a cup of coffee. Then check under the car for little pools of brake fluid, check the interior part of the rims for brake fluid and (if possible) check along the brake lines for wet spots (leakage through a little rust hole in the brake line).
It looks like you either have an internal or external master cylinder leakage. Check floor matting under the pedals for wet spots and check the area around and under the master cylinder in the engine compartment. If leakage in any of thees spots, then you have an external master cylinder leakage, and you could probably solve the problem by just replacing the master cylinder external seals.
Otherwise you hava an internal leakage. Replace the master cylinder so that you will have all the time you need to rebuild your old one.
Last update.
Everything seems to work fine. Brakes are working and with no apparent leakages. I now have a master cylinder in my inventory which could come in handy some day.
I even replaced the manual transmission gear box with new oil and a car that is known for its bad transmission now have nice and smooth gear shifting.
Will take the car for a 500 mile drive tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies here and else where on the forum – pieces of advice that mada such a huge difference.
Last update.
Everything seems to work fine. Brakes are working and with no apparent leakages. I now have a master cylinder in my inventory which could come in handy some day.
I even replaced the manual transmission gear box with new oil and a car that is known for its bad transmission now have nice and smooth gear shifting.
Will take the car for a 500 mile drive tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies here and else where on the forum – pieces of advice that mada such a huge difference.
Hi Eric.
Yes indeed. I my self (and Irene) thought I could be a clutch starting to fail. And your inspiring videos made me think that a clutch project could be “interesting” – mind that I have never done one before.
This car is a budget VW from the era were VW started to cut corners. Not as “bad” as many, and with a good sturdy engine, but is unfortunately known for bad clutch and bad transmission. Especially as this little car is often used as a city car with a lot stop and go.
I guess that you in general will either be tough on your clutch (using down gearing to reduce speed) or be tough on your brakes (easier to fix).
When you are doing the clutch repair – are there any other replacements (drive shafts) you suggest that the customer to have done as you have allready taken like 1/4 of the car a part?
Keep up the good work and pleace keep up the ranting and your personal comments. This is really what makes your videos so “funny” and “inspiring”. Near miss with your finger almost getting crushed between ball joint and lower wish bone…! HeHe. You did get silent there for like 30 seconds.
Stay squirty.
Hi Eric.
Yes indeed. I my self (and Irene) thought I could be a clutch starting to fail. And your inspiring videos made me think that a clutch project could be “interesting” – mind that I have never done one before.
This car is a budget VW from the era were VW started to cut corners. Not as “bad” as many, and with a good sturdy engine, but is unfortunately known for bad clutch and bad transmission. Especially as this little car is often used as a city car with a lot stop and go.
I guess that you in general will either be tough on your clutch (using down gearing to reduce speed) or be tough on your brakes (easier to fix).
When you are doing the clutch repair – are there any other replacements (drive shafts) you suggest that the customer to have done as you have allready taken like 1/4 of the car a part?
Keep up the good work and pleace keep up the ranting and your personal comments. This is really what makes your videos so “funny” and “inspiring”. Near miss with your finger almost getting crushed between ball joint and lower wish bone…! HeHe. You did get silent there for like 30 seconds.
Stay squirty.
I had a similar problem after changing from regular mineral or semi-synthetic 10W40 to fully-synthetic 5W40 to be “nice” to the engine. The engine which is like 12 years old runs smoothly but now the engine leaks from several places.
So on an old engine that has never had any TLC – when someone all of a sudden fills the engine with premium “thin” oil and keeps the engine nicely filled almost right up to the max level (and thus creating a little higher oil pressure) the oil might begin to leak out. Especially if you all of a sudden also begin to use oil cleaning additives. Probably go for a “thicker” mineral 10W40/15W40 and shorter shifting intervals.