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Ok so the only sensor that makes any difference in the way the car runs is the vss. When unplugged the car runs completely normal but no Speedo or odometer. Now the sensors that are involved in that circuit before the ecu are vss, both o2 sensors, evap emission control vent shut valve, evap bypass solenoid, evap purge control, vtec pressure switch, and ps pressure switch. Not sure if there are more but from my haynes manual those are what is all connected before the ecu.
I have already replaced the car sensor with a denso sensor and the same result. The wiring to that sensor looks fine as well. Anybody have any advice?
Ok thank you. That is what I figured but wanted to be sure. Also if you could answer another question. So my car is a 99 civic d16y8 mt and I have an idle issue. I have traced it to the evap circuit. All manually as well since I have no codes. But I need to check one more sensor but it is the evaporative emission bypass solenoid valve by the tank. Can I get to that without dropping the tank?
Alright so need a little more help. So since my last post I cleaned the original iacv again and reinstalled it. No bouncing idle but still had the high coasting idle. When I used my buddies scanner to get some data when I put the car in neutral and coast it says the iacv is at 30% and once stopped it goes down to i think it was like 4% and it actually idles very good now at about 800-1k. I then decided to clean my wheel speed sensors and that actually dropped the coasting idle from 2500 to 2k. Problem is still ther however. So I’m looking at maybe the vss being bad? My speedo doesn’t read until I’m going about 10-15 mph. Can a vss cause an idle issue? Also is something commanding the iacv to engage? I am kind of leaning toward a faulty ecm?
Well I couldn’t use the sensor I had because the plug was in the wrong posistion. I decided try put the original sensor I replaced on the car and it freaking worked… so far it is driving nice after I adjusted the idle. It still revs high when coasting in neutral but only to 2k which is way more tolerable. The only thing I can think of is maybe the pcv is sticking. Either way I have one that I am going to change soon.
I don’t have a FITV. And the symptom was different before the iacv swap. It was a bouncing idle. I’ll try swapping the sensor out tomorrow and I’ll get back to you.
Aftermarket. I bought it from rockauto.com
I use them alot and never have gotten a bad part. I have another factory one off an old intake manifold should i clean it up and try it?If i unplug the iacv it runs perfect
Also if I block off the hole to the iacv in the TB it will drop in rpm but stay running. And if I unplug the sensor it runs like it should. No high idle or coasting issues
Do you know where I can find the spec? I haven’t been able to find much info on the IAT
I actually just went to a buddies place today and got some data from his scanner. This is all at operating temp btw. IAT read 131 degrees ect was 180 to about 205 degrees. The LT fuel trim was at about .9 to 1.1. I do not remember the ST trim. The LT trim is high isn’t it?
Well I have adjusted the cable to have about 1/2″ of play. The cable also seems to be in the correct spot. Also when I drive at highway speeds for about 45 minutes or so it will coast at the 2500-3000 rpm but once stopped it actually idles around 800 rpm.
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