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[quote=”Kenzo” post=179799]….. the instant I hear the noise my brakes become less efficient at holding the car in reverse for a split second then it’s fine again, [/b]
Vehicle info:
90 Acura Integra, Automatic, 174k[/quote]I’ll tell you a story of my 67 Mustang with power disc brakes that was driving me nuts.
At low speeds, when applying the brakes, they would lock up, but only going forward. I systematically changed everything, and I do mean everything in the braking system, including the soft and hard lines but it kept happening. So, fast forward to the fix. I was under the dash looking for anything that could be the culprit when I moved the brake pedal and the rod that goes into the brake booster just fell off. Part of that rod that was inside of the brake booster cracked into two pieces! Mind you, this was a new rebuilt booster. The fix was another rebuilt booster.
It’s those little things that drive you nuts. Good luck.
Firstly, I’ve never had good luck with Turtle wax products.
Then there’s that issue with the Arizona sun. I live in So Cal and my van and travel trailer are parked outside so they really take a beating. I keep my van roof clean and waxed with a good paste wax. The travel trailer roof gets “conditioning” twice a year.
I also have a boat outside and it is protected by a Sunbrella boat cover. It’s one of the most expensive cover materials but it’s worth it.
Can’t give you any advice on compound or clay bar stuff because I believe in prevention in the first place.
Good luck.
Thank you “civvy” and “Cammed 05”.
The shop I took the van to called me today and said that the fuel pressure doesn’t hold after three attempts at starting so they suspect the fuel pump also which will be replaced.
I also asked them to check for a coolant leak as I could smell anti-freeze for the last couple of days and they found the intake manifold gasket leaking after pressurizing the cooling system.
They are also changing my sliding cargo door handle which was cracked when someone unsuccessfully tried to break into the van.
They also noticed that one of the front brake hoses was twisted and will remount the caliper at no additional charge. I told them that I had recently replaced the calipers, rotors and pads so that was my fault.
The van should be ready about Friday so looking forward to new adventures! Thanks everyone!
I looked up fuel pump pressure issues on certain GM engines and everyone here might be right. Working space is an issue for me as I live in a condo and I really hate to block my GF’s or my son’s driveway so did a search on the web and I think I found a shop close by.
I’ve used this criteria before and it usually has worked. This shop has been in business for over 40 years, has their own machine shop on the premises, has been featured on a local TV news program (good reviews) and the best thing in my mind, they also do hot rod restorations! I used to take my hot rod 67 Mustang to a small local hot rod shop but the owner retired.
[quote=”civvy” post=180217]
I noticed that when I turn the key to the “ON” position for a couple of seconds before starting, it starts normally
How’s the fuel pressure? How long does it take to reach full pressure after you turn the key to the “ON” position? How long should it take?
Imagine that your fuel system is having trouble reaching full pressure as quickly as it used to (due to a leak in the system, a bad pump, faulty wiring, etc). Could that explain what you’re seeing?[/quote]
Again, I’m just guessing because of “no codes”.
From past experiences with fuel pumps, mechanical and electric, they either work or they don’t. I guess it still might be possible that the fuel pump is the culprit, but to get to the fuel rail (if there is a test point valve) is going to be a PITA. I’m leaning toward an electrical issue such as the ignition because I once had a problem were my MSD6A box was doing the same thing randomly until it just totally failed. When I bypassed the MSD box, it started normally but of course I could notice a real lack of performance. Also, after two cranks, I can smell gas so it seems the pump is working but something isn’t igniting the fuel/air. When I turn the key on for a couple of seconds then start the engine, there is no gas smell.
Sometimes I wish I had a truck for a tow vehicle.
An update to my issue.
I noticed that when I turn the key to the “ON” position for a couple of seconds before starting, it starts normally so I pulled the relays that I can see under the hood and cleaned up the contacts. It was a shot in the dark because of not knowing which relay, if any, is for the ignition (there is a starter relay). Again, there are no codes present so just trying things. I do have a new spare coil stored in the van just in case the old one suddenly dies as this is my tow vehicle for my boat and travel trailer. I’m so anal that I actually carry spare headlight and taillight bulbs along with magnetic tow lights. I don’t want to be stuck in the sticks!
[quote=”MasterLordZero” post=179553]Thanks for the help sir. Yeah replaced the air filter a few months ago, I don’t think the gas cap could be leaking, but I’ll try anyways. replaced the spark plug wires in 2013, replaced the whole air intake manifold tube that leads to the engine a few days ago and closed to nipples that were leaking. I almost want to say the problem started a few days after I put in Marvel Mystery oil, 4oz into my tank.
I think this could also be the start of the problem from three years ago. I was an idiot and was putting in Lucas Fuel Stabilizer every two weeks for months and then in Dec 2013 it started dying every time it stopped,
So I’m wondering if I caused some sort of damage when I did that.[/quote]
Just curious but why the Marvel Mystery oil and the Lucas Fuel Stabilizer? I do use the Lucas Fuel Stabilizer but only once a year and only in my boat gas tank during the winter.
[quote=”college man” post=179543]When was the last time your plugs were changed? I would verify a good strong spark at each plug
with a tester.[/quote]Twice, last year! The plugs were in real sad shape and engine was running rough. The first shop replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap. It then ran great for awhile then it started acting up. The second shop (dealer) found some of the plug wires were chaffing so replaced the wires and some other misc. work and it’s been running fine ever since except for this random starting issue.
I’ve pretty much conceded that if you want it done right, you either have to have access to a shop like “Eric the Car Guy” or just do it yourself. I hate pulling the engine cover on the inside of the van but will probably have to set aside some time and do it. I wish Eric would open up another shop on this coast!
First, I’m 67 years old and am starting to feel the pains of aging. I’m not in really bad shape as I do go fishing on my boat and have a travel trailer for trips but it is starting to take it’s toll. On the plus side, I can still fit through the hatch of the boat!
Lately I’ve been acquiring more power tools to help with the aging process. I really love my battery drill/screw driver combination and really baby my 1/2″ impact wrench! My last acquisition was a battery powered circle saw. Also love my small battery screwdriver for the small jobs.
As far as wrenching on cars, I’ve limited my time to brake jobs, oil changes, spark plugs (but not on my van, that engine cover is a witch) and tire rotations which is soon to be handed over to paid help.
With no check engine light you’re pretty much shooting in the dark and have to rely on old school trouble shooting.
I’m assuming you did all the free to cheap trouble shooting things like a plugged air cleaner filter (don’t laugh, I’ve heard of people not checking that when their engines died), bad gas cap (yes, my GF had that happen on her 2001 4Runner although it did generate a check engine light), etc.
Another long shot is something that happened to me on my work van. My battery was shunting down the voltage from the alternator which caused the engine to die. Swapping the battery from another van cured that problem.
Air, gas and spark. Just the facts.
Just remembered something else. Vacuum leaks.
Hopefully you fixed the problem by now but here’s my experience with something close to yours.
First of all, that idle speed is probably way too low. I think the lowest idle speed I have seen is 700 rpms on my boat motor.
The last carbed car I had was my toy 67 Mustang. It developed a rough idle and it would die at idle unless I kept it up at about 1500 rpms. It usually idled around 900-1000 rpms. I had a vacuum gauge mounted inside of the engine compartment and vacuum at idle was good, even with a mild performance hydraulic cam. If I remember correctly, it was about 12-14 lbs which was enough for the brake booster. I used the “spray and pray” method to look for vacuum leaks in the usual places around the intake manifold and the carb but found none. This problem persisted for a few months until I saw a post on another forum about vacuum leaks that are so minute that it would not show up on the vacuum gauge or the “spray and pray” method. It involved the the throttle plate bushings at the base of the carb. There were actually kits to rebuild those bushing seats on the Holley carb but due to the cost, I just plunked down the green stuff and got a brand new 4 barrel Holley which cured the problem.
This may not be your problem but it sure looks like you’ve covered all the other usual suspects. Good luck.
[quote=”Rob781″ post=170042]is it a 5.3L because I dont see a 5.0L motor for it… also what is the 8th digit on the VIN…. I was going to check out the service manual and look at the fuse block and what TSB’s… also is it a surbiban or P/B if you know…[/quote]
The label in the engine compartment of my Express 1500 van identifies it as a 5.0L. The eighth digit is “M”. I’m not sure what you mean by P/B?
[quote=”ialmanza4″ post=170019]Check the connectors for each DRL.
On Chevy’s they get hot and melt the connector due to loose fitting terminals. If your connectors look at all melted, call the local parts store and get some new pigtails for them. This is a new connector and two wires which need to be wired in. Soldering and heat shrink is best. Also use 4114K (long life bulbs).[/quote]
These lights are glass sealed beam units. As a matter of fact, we were planning a trip and towing my RV trailer into the desert a few months ago so went to the local Pep Boys store and they don’t even stock these type of lights anymore in the store, so ended up buying one spare light from the dealer. The regular low and high beams work okay and from what I read, the DRL module provides a lower voltage to the low beam to be used as a running light.
On a side note, I had an issue with my tail lights working intermittently and via the web found out that Chevys have a problem with the rear tail light sockets corroding and losing the ground connection. I bought some generic GM type connectors from Summit Racing and adapted them and now my tail lights work normally.
[quote=”Iznogood” post=169975]No, I didn´t suspect it did. But usually manufacturers places certain components in roughly the same spots
It was just to give you a hint. I´m not even sure, if the Haynes can point to its location. The dealer should be able to however.[/quote]
Got a copy of the Hayne’s manual today. It wasn’t much help as far as pictures go and even less help with wiring schematics, so I went to the dealer and they brought up a picture which only showed a DRL control module with no relay. I think this model only has the control module which allows a lower voltage to the regular headlight low beam to be used as a driving light. The control module cost about $100 at the dealer and I can’t even see it under the supposed location without tearing out a bunch of wiring, so just pulled fuse #15 for the DRL circuit and will just live with it that way. I may rig up an aftermarket LED driving light later. Thanks for the help and I hope this discussion helps someone in the future.