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[Jeff J]

[quote=”dtidman” post=161341]If I recall correctly (since I have the same engine type in my 2003 Frontier), there are coolant pipes that head toward the throttle body that are prone to leaks. You might want to check those. Are you losing coolant? You could either add dye to your coolant and see where the leak is or you could do a block test (look for exhaust remains in the coolant) to determine if it is a head gasket or not. Other options are doing a leak down test to rule out the head gasket.

Since you didn’t mention a year, the general section to get the FSM for the frontier (or any Nissan) is http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. You can check the cooling system section for the routing.

Good luck and keep us updated.[/quote]

Was your Frontier a V6 model? Thanks for the link.
If the oil is not discolored (milky), does this mean that it is more likely an intake leak? There is a lot of white smoke, so it may just be burning coolant direct.

It is an 02

[Jeff J]

[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=161337]The only way I can think that an intake manifold can cause smoke of any kind and it ISN’T a coolant leak is when there is excess carbon buildup in the intake because the car is never run hard.[/quote]

I’m thinking it is a coolant leak. Is there an easy way to differentiate between and head gasket coolant leak and intake coolant leak?

[Jeff J]

Just updating an old post.

I think the distributors are the same. I noticed the cardone and private labels use variations of the same model number. If I had time I would have just gone with an ebay or rock auto distributor. I ended up just getting in locally at advanced auto for over twice the price. The only plus side is it has a lifetime warranty through them.

[Jeff J]

I finally caught it leaking. There was a small puddle of coolant on the compressor underneath the water pump. I ended up changing the water pump out. Thanks for the help.

[Jeff J]

Thanks

I used my oil pan with a large sheet metal pan underneath. It didn’t make much mess at all and saved some time.

[Jeff J]

Thanks

I didn’t know about the dremel bits. I will try that and then try removing the bolt again.

[Jeff J]

I’ve only seen it happen twice. I added some coolant to the reservoir a couple of weeks ago. I just topped it off.

I’ve replaced some of the hoses (upper and lower radiator hose). The pump and all hoses are original.

Should I be concerned? Should I go ahead and replace it or just monitor it?

Thanks

[Jeff J]

The pump isn’t located in the timing cover. It is attached to the drive belt assembly.

I’ve only seen it leak a couple of times. It leaks about a 1/2 cup to 1 cup. I haven’t added any coolant to the system yet. I did notice some brown residue on the top of the ac compressor under the water pump. I do not hear any noises coming from the water pump bearing and the vehicle isn’t overheating.

[Jeff J]

Sorry, I thought I added that info.

98 Nissan Altima GXE 2.4L 4 cyl]

[Jeff J]

I was watching one of Eric’s videos on knock sensors. The live data on his actron obdii meter shows ignition timing. I think I have a 9180 scanner. Does this meter have the ability to check timing? If so, can one adjust timing based on the meter, or do I need to get a timing light?

[Jeff J]

What I did was make a reference mark on the old distributor and the new distributor. I made the mark when the rotor was at cylinder one point. I then removed the distributor and installed the new one where it was at the same point. It seemed to line back up fine.

[Jeff J]

[quote=”sirstinky” post=127956]You could go either way, the reman dealership part or the new part from the auto parts store. Keep in mind, that some of the ones you get from the auto parts store are remans too. Nothing wrong with remans as long as they are a reputable brand. Like I said before, get the best one you can afford. You get what you pay for with auto parts. A lifetime warranty (at least at my parts store) means you can return it if it breaks or fails after you install it. Cost Less Auto Parts is the place I go first for parts. Decent-quality non-OEM parts and OEM for good prices.[/quote]

Thanks

I don’t have that store in my area. I have Oreily’s, advance, autozone, the parts house, and napa. I may go with advance auto parts and just return it if it isn’t the problem. They state they have a 90 return period. Toughone is just the private label for advance auto parts. By looking at the model numbers, it appears to be a cardone select distributor. I can’t believe how much cheaper rock auto is, but I can’t wait a few days for the part.

[Jeff J]

[quote=”sirstinky” post=127947]For misfires random cylinders, it means more than one cylinder is misfiring. It could be anything: low fuel pressure (bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter), bad battery (believe it or not), spark plugs, spark plug wires, vacuum leak(s), jumped timing. You replaced the fuel filter, so you could rule that out. Check it for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and vacuum lines, anything behind the MAF sensor. Check your spark plugs for wear. Test your battery. Check your timing and spark plug wires. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Might be a bad fuel pressure regulator, too.

As far as the distributor, get the OEM remanufactured part or one from a reputable manufacturer. It’s tempting to get it from eBay and save a ton of money, but it’s hit-and-miss. There’s a reason they can sell them so cheap! It’s always better to air on the side of caution because it’s a pain to have to return it. If you do, rest assured that eBay’s buyer protection is legendary. Check the refund and return policies for the seller.[/quote]

I read some reviews on amazon from the same seller. It seems like a few people had it fail shortly after they installed it. I’ll call my local dealership to check the price. Otherwise, I may just go with an aftermarket one from an auto parts store. It has a lifetime warranty.

I’m thinking it is an ignition issue based on research online. Also, the catalytic converter did get extremely hot. It makes sense what dtidman said about fuel getting into the converter. I inspected the wires, cap, and rotor. They seem to be ok. I wonder what the return policy is for distributors. I hate to just be a parts changer, but it seems like the simplest route.

[Jeff J]

Thanks

I’ll look over the FSM tonight.

What are your thoughts on Toughone distributors or aftermarket distributors in general? I don’t think nissan makes new ones any longer. I can only get a remanufactured one from them. I’m not sure if that is a better route than just going to a parts house. The prices are:

350 oem remanufactured
260 to 300 toughone, cardone, etc.
100 to 200 Rockauto
100 used oem ebay
75 brand new from ebay

Ebay distributor

It seems like a lot of people purchase them off ebay. I saw one listing that sold over 500. I’m not sure how they can be that cheap, however. I didn’t see many negatives on quality.

[Jeff J]

Is there a way to test the distributor?

[Author]

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