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Can you hear your starter making any sound at all? If there is too low amperage you can often hear the starter struggle. It wont crank, but still make a whirring or clicking sound, but no cranks.
If it is completely silent then maybe a bad relay?
Can you hear your starter making any sound at all? If there is too low amperage you can often hear the starter struggle. It wont crank, but still make a whirring or clicking sound, but no cranks.
If it is completely silent then maybe a bad relay?
That sucks.
Spraying liquid nitrogen or O2 on it can also make the metal contract and level soft dents, however yours is a big area so I am doubtful. Good luck with it!
That sucks.
Spraying liquid nitrogen or O2 on it can also make the metal contract and level soft dents, however yours is a big area so I am doubtful. Good luck with it!
Until someone else pitches in, I’ll give it a try.
The water you see might not originate where you think. If it sits on the surface like that it can be condensation on the cold metal parts, with the water originating from elsewhere.
Normally condensation can occur by worn or broken seals from where the wires etc. breach the cabin. See if you can spot and rust or running water marks on the firewall etc.
Another culprit can be wet or moist cabin filter which will keep supplying the cabin with new moisture when heated.Also check that the windshield drains normally and if you have a sunroof your drain channels might be blocked.
Another very simple suggestion is that you tracked a good bunch of snow in the car which melted and is in your carpets now. Try heating the car up a lot on the next 3-4 trips and finish off by leaving it running with heat on and all doors open. As warm air carries more moisture you can get the water off you panels and vacate it by airing out the car a few times. This is a common problem with cars with tight good seals all around which won’t allow anything in or out.
I don’t know anything about the drain system on the A/C, someone else might pitch in on this or have more ideas, but at least now you can get started on something 🙂
Good luck
Until someone else pitches in, I’ll give it a try.
The water you see might not originate where you think. If it sits on the surface like that it can be condensation on the cold metal parts, with the water originating from elsewhere.
Normally condensation can occur by worn or broken seals from where the wires etc. breach the cabin. See if you can spot and rust or running water marks on the firewall etc.
Another culprit can be wet or moist cabin filter which will keep supplying the cabin with new moisture when heated.Also check that the windshield drains normally and if you have a sunroof your drain channels might be blocked.
Another very simple suggestion is that you tracked a good bunch of snow in the car which melted and is in your carpets now. Try heating the car up a lot on the next 3-4 trips and finish off by leaving it running with heat on and all doors open. As warm air carries more moisture you can get the water off you panels and vacate it by airing out the car a few times. This is a common problem with cars with tight good seals all around which won’t allow anything in or out.
I don’t know anything about the drain system on the A/C, someone else might pitch in on this or have more ideas, but at least now you can get started on something 🙂
Good luck
BTW as a suggestion it could be cool with a flow chart or drop down box helping people select their symptoms and then getting most likely causes and how to diagnose/fix. Kind of the same things as webMD and similar sites. I know it would require extensive work, but just thought.
BTW as a suggestion it could be cool with a flow chart or drop down box helping people select their symptoms and then getting most likely causes and how to diagnose/fix. Kind of the same things as webMD and similar sites. I know it would require extensive work, but just thought.
Great post Eric. Could you elaborate on why cleaning the MAP is not necessary and can damage it? I have never had a car with MAP (I think) so I don’t know why. On the cars in my country they are usually so well maintained that things die of old age or sticky gunk prevents things from accurate operation. I normally clean my MAF at 50K km intervals with MAF or brake cleaner and most often it makes a difference. I have done it on cars with oiled filters (K&N) where the engine ran much smoother after the degreasing of the wire filament.
Other things are usually worn idle control valves/motors, hardened rubber and ruptured vacuum hoses, all due to age.
Great post Eric. Could you elaborate on why cleaning the MAP is not necessary and can damage it? I have never had a car with MAP (I think) so I don’t know why. On the cars in my country they are usually so well maintained that things die of old age or sticky gunk prevents things from accurate operation. I normally clean my MAF at 50K km intervals with MAF or brake cleaner and most often it makes a difference. I have done it on cars with oiled filters (K&N) where the engine ran much smoother after the degreasing of the wire filament.
Other things are usually worn idle control valves/motors, hardened rubber and ruptured vacuum hoses, all due to age.
[quote=”johnzcarz” post=41237][quote=”mckrishes” post=40387]$200 per quart? Wow that’s expensive.[/quote]
That’s because they fresh squeeze their dinosaurs. Ever try to catch and then squeeze a dinosaur? It’s not easy.[/quote]
😆
[quote=”johnzcarz” post=41237][quote=”mckrishes” post=40387]$200 per quart? Wow that’s expensive.[/quote]
That’s because they fresh squeeze their dinosaurs. Ever try to catch and then squeeze a dinosaur? It’s not easy.[/quote]
😆
BTW isn’t there so many synchro’s in modern auto’s that transmission-engine rpm mismatch is unlikely to cause an issue?
/correction
Just read up on auto transmissions and I see that the regular version works by planet gears and torque converters and has no synchros. The common European auto’s are automatic manuals, automatic sequentials and similar advanced constructions, however not close to American prevalence.BTW isn’t there so many synchro’s in modern auto’s that transmission-engine rpm mismatch is unlikely to cause an issue?
/correction
Just read up on auto transmissions and I see that the regular version works by planet gears and torque converters and has no synchros. The common European auto’s are automatic manuals, automatic sequentials and similar advanced constructions, however not close to American prevalence.[quote=”thisisbuod” post=40104]A sensor isn’t going to create a grinding noise or any funny feeling in the shifter because when you are shifting the clutch has seperated the engine from the trans. You may just want to change the trans fluid (I’m guessing it has never been changed.) But because of the mileage and it is more pronounced between 1st and 2nd you probably just have some worn out syncronizers.[/quote]
I did say that it was was less likely, but yes it can. A slightly sticking throttle cable can do the same. I’ve only seen this in manuals however as this is all I drive (might be why you haven’t heard of it?).
It creates the same speed mismatch as pulling the clutch, revving slightly and trying to change gears. It will be hard to shift, make a clunk or a slight grind. I had a faulty MAF sensor replaced under warranty due to this issue. It was still working, but apparently off a little, hence the troublesome shifts.
It is actually also a problem on some cars that over-rev a bit when clutched, that you can’t get it into gear until the engine revs drop again.