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Is your battery fine and your alternator working?
When it dies, is it hard to start or easy?
Any difference in being cold or fully warm in relation to stalling and ease of starting again?
Is your battery fine and your alternator working?
When it dies, is it hard to start or easy?
Any difference in being cold or fully warm in relation to stalling and ease of starting again?
I do agree with you that there is plenty of HP to gain from what you propose but for such a serious build you are putting in 25-50% of the cars value on top… that is not what most people do.
The common things are performance filters, CAI/SRI, axle or cat back exhaust. The more expensive jobs includes headers, porting, cat deletes etc. and should all be accompanied by a tune. Unfortunately even then I have seen quite a few vehicles lose HP or redistribute them around in a more useless manor (top end HP and no mid to low end torque… gives you bragging rights, but makes you car annoying to drive).
The car companies are not cheating you off free HP that they couldn’t have gotten themselves. It is correct that restrictions like noise and emission play a part, but not nearly as much as you should think (i.e. you are chasing margins while polluting and waking up the entire neighbourhood).@ Eric
I totally agree. You can’t just put a large diameter exhaust on with less bends and expect it to perform better because it is larger with less restrictions. That is a very common mistake and since there are quite a few of these for the avg. Joe who wants to get a few more HP, a run-through of it all would be nice for the beginners on here.I do agree with you that there is plenty of HP to gain from what you propose but for such a serious build you are putting in 25-50% of the cars value on top… that is not what most people do.
The common things are performance filters, CAI/SRI, axle or cat back exhaust. The more expensive jobs includes headers, porting, cat deletes etc. and should all be accompanied by a tune. Unfortunately even then I have seen quite a few vehicles lose HP or redistribute them around in a more useless manor (top end HP and no mid to low end torque… gives you bragging rights, but makes you car annoying to drive).
The car companies are not cheating you off free HP that they couldn’t have gotten themselves. It is correct that restrictions like noise and emission play a part, but not nearly as much as you should think (i.e. you are chasing margins while polluting and waking up the entire neighbourhood).@ Eric
I totally agree. You can’t just put a large diameter exhaust on with less bends and expect it to perform better because it is larger with less restrictions. That is a very common mistake and since there are quite a few of these for the avg. Joe who wants to get a few more HP, a run-through of it all would be nice for the beginners on here.I read the part about the screw as it got crushed between the disc and the rim? Thinking about it now, it would probably impact braking also if the rim was not completely parallel with the hub due to a crushed screw in between.
I read the part about the screw as it got crushed between the disc and the rim? Thinking about it now, it would probably impact braking also if the rim was not completely parallel with the hub due to a crushed screw in between.
This really is one of the topics where people have lots and lots of misconceptions. Eric has already touched upon it in the video with the cool intake manifold that could make short or long runners dependent on RPMs.
Much has to do with Helmholz resonator theory, turbulent vs. laminar flow and pulse scavenging and I would postulate that 95% of modders (and companies supplying aftermarket parts) either do worse or get lucky with a slight increase in performance.If there was easy HP to be made the engineers at (insert company) would have done so. You can either be bad to the environment (personal choice) or move the engine characteristics around, usually by adjusting the torque curve (low end torque, high end power etc.).
I don’t know if Eric is planning on doing a video on it at some point. If not I was contemplating writing an info thread about modding intakes and exhausts as there is too much nonsense floating around.
This really is one of the topics where people have lots and lots of misconceptions. Eric has already touched upon it in the video with the cool intake manifold that could make short or long runners dependent on RPMs.
Much has to do with Helmholz resonator theory, turbulent vs. laminar flow and pulse scavenging and I would postulate that 95% of modders (and companies supplying aftermarket parts) either do worse or get lucky with a slight increase in performance.If there was easy HP to be made the engineers at (insert company) would have done so. You can either be bad to the environment (personal choice) or move the engine characteristics around, usually by adjusting the torque curve (low end torque, high end power etc.).
I don’t know if Eric is planning on doing a video on it at some point. If not I was contemplating writing an info thread about modding intakes and exhausts as there is too much nonsense floating around.
Glad to hear it seems to work out for you!
If not, Lord ihcalam had some good points to check out too.
Hope 2 new tires fixes the issue for you, otherwise come back and we can troubleshoot some more :).
Glad to hear it seems to work out for you!
If not, Lord ihcalam had some good points to check out too.
Hope 2 new tires fixes the issue for you, otherwise come back and we can troubleshoot some more :).
Couldn’t agree more. The jack is not removed due to lazyness most often, but it is nice to have the car supported as well as possible when you are under it. Pulling on a rusty nut with hand tools can make the car jerk quite a bit. If possible push or pull directly up or down when you are struggling with something and not sideways even though is most often is the easiest angle.
Remember to check the surface you are putting it on is flat and stable. Gravel, soil and hot asphalt can make for nasty suprises.
Couldn’t agree more. The jack is not removed due to lazyness most often, but it is nice to have the car supported as well as possible when you are under it. Pulling on a rusty nut with hand tools can make the car jerk quite a bit. If possible push or pull directly up or down when you are struggling with something and not sideways even though is most often is the easiest angle.
Remember to check the surface you are putting it on is flat and stable. Gravel, soil and hot asphalt can make for nasty suprises.
I think A or C is most likely if I understand you issue with the screw correctly. Could also be the rotor that warped a bit causing uneven contact? I would imagine that the rotor bends before the rim does but as there are a million different rim designs it is hard to say.
I don’t think you damaged the tire, it is relatively hard to due and unless toe in or similar was way off, it would not wear uneven that fast for you to notice.
You could try to put in a bit more air in the tire or take some off to see if it changes how the car sounds and feels when you drive a short test distance. A flat spot can even out a bit that way and damaged side walls will wobble more when not supported as vigorously by the air pressure. But as I said, assuming they did their job correctly I don’t think you have uneven wear pattern already or a damaged tire that didn’t show at any point previously.
Occams razor would tell you that the screw must be involved 😉