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Here is why you should use the lowest viscosity possible where you live 🙂
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vQO2GzIUO4
10w is much worse.
The engine might crank but it is not lubricated and won’t be for a while until the oil melts from the combustion heat. It is bad.
If you are allowed to in the manual you should use a 0w20 synthetic. If not then a 0w30. Synthetic will prolong your engine life in this regard due to the many cold starts you have as well as condensation etc.
If you are allowed to in the manual you should use a 0w20 synthetic. If not then a 0w30. Synthetic will prolong your engine life in this regard due to the many cold starts you have as well as condensation etc.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=50558]
OE fluid is defiantly important in many transmissions. I know Honda’s don’t work right without OE fluid. After my Synthetic vs Regular oil video I’m getting an even better understanding. As for the lock up your talking about that will be covered in the torque converter video.[/quote]
Sweet! Can’t wait 🙂
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=50558]
OE fluid is defiantly important in many transmissions. I know Honda’s don’t work right without OE fluid. After my Synthetic vs Regular oil video I’m getting an even better understanding. As for the lock up your talking about that will be covered in the torque converter video.[/quote]
Sweet! Can’t wait 🙂
If the manual calls for 0w20 and you live in Canada I would drive on 0w20 all year round. There is normally a temp chart you could go by and Canada surely falls in the coldest category where 0w20 is fine. Why not order a large quantity from Amazon?
Personally I would not worry about using full synthetic as it makes little difference. Regarding gunk buildup, there should be little first of all if adhering to normal service intervals. Second of all adding an oil with higher detergent quantity like Pennzoil Ultra will slowly dissolve leftovers on the parts. It is my opinion that the horros stories you hear are from engine cleaners, pressurized fluid swaps or cleaning procedures (see youtube on Jiffy lube on automakers recommending against their engine cleaning procedures). Adding harsh chemicals or pressure will surely brake away something large. Add slightly more “soap” and it dissolves in its own pace.
If the manual calls for 0w20 and you live in Canada I would drive on 0w20 all year round. There is normally a temp chart you could go by and Canada surely falls in the coldest category where 0w20 is fine. Why not order a large quantity from Amazon?
Personally I would not worry about using full synthetic as it makes little difference. Regarding gunk buildup, there should be little first of all if adhering to normal service intervals. Second of all adding an oil with higher detergent quantity like Pennzoil Ultra will slowly dissolve leftovers on the parts. It is my opinion that the horros stories you hear are from engine cleaners, pressurized fluid swaps or cleaning procedures (see youtube on Jiffy lube on automakers recommending against their engine cleaning procedures). Adding harsh chemicals or pressure will surely brake away something large. Add slightly more “soap” and it dissolves in its own pace.
Great video Eric, very educational so far!
It is easy to see why so many people have issues when they swap out OEM transmission oil with aftermarket oil, even with the same specifications. Everything from viscosity (at all temperatures in the operating range), shear strength, how slippery it is etc. influence both the hydraulic part of the transmission and basic things like the clutch plates, the band etc.
I have been looking into AW-1 fluid (maybe the same as 3309) which goes into the AWTF-80 SC auto found in volvos, SAAB etc. and also the M1375.4 fluid for specific ZF transmissions and boy are they ultra picky when it comes to the fluids used. It makes much sense now.I have a few questions. The clutch plates do indeed look like those on a motorcycle. Do you ever get pitting in transmissions on the bowl (?lacking the correct term) from constant engaging and disengaging? This happens on MC’s which can cause issues with changing gears and weird wear patterns on the clutch plates.
Also, I have been told that my ZF auto locks above 3000rpm creating a near 1:1 ratio of throttle input vs output and I can really feel that it does not create the familiar slush box feeling where the engine revs but it takes time for the fluids to gain enough momentum to propel the car forward. Do you know how this is done? Is something locking in the torque converter or?
Great video Eric, very educational so far!
It is easy to see why so many people have issues when they swap out OEM transmission oil with aftermarket oil, even with the same specifications. Everything from viscosity (at all temperatures in the operating range), shear strength, how slippery it is etc. influence both the hydraulic part of the transmission and basic things like the clutch plates, the band etc.
I have been looking into AW-1 fluid (maybe the same as 3309) which goes into the AWTF-80 SC auto found in volvos, SAAB etc. and also the M1375.4 fluid for specific ZF transmissions and boy are they ultra picky when it comes to the fluids used. It makes much sense now.I have a few questions. The clutch plates do indeed look like those on a motorcycle. Do you ever get pitting in transmissions on the bowl (?lacking the correct term) from constant engaging and disengaging? This happens on MC’s which can cause issues with changing gears and weird wear patterns on the clutch plates.
Also, I have been told that my ZF auto locks above 3000rpm creating a near 1:1 ratio of throttle input vs output and I can really feel that it does not create the familiar slush box feeling where the engine revs but it takes time for the fluids to gain enough momentum to propel the car forward. Do you know how this is done? Is something locking in the torque converter or?
[quote=”ScottBlue5″ post=49631][quote=”jay_ie” post=49614]With regards to oil grades look for the German manufacturers approvals, Mercedes,VW, BMW & Porshe on the back of the oil container.
As a rule of thumb these guys are really strict about oil quality so if it has their endorsement you can’t go wrong.
(you’ll be surprised how many top end oil Brands don’t)[/quote]Meeting the performance standards for motor oils intended for European cars is not an endorsement. It just means the oil meets the performance standard required by a given European car company, i.e. BMW LL-01. This is not a BMW endorsement, just an oil performance standard. In the U.S., we use API ratings, such as SL, SM and the most current is SN, but European car manufacturers have their own standards because the vehicles in Europe generally have to deal with very different usage compared to American cars, so the motor oils must meet very different performance standards as well. This is why the American Petroleum Institute, (or API), oil standards don’t apply to European vehicles and vice versa.[/quote]
Pretty sure that this is an AMSOIL PR blurp page http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/articles/american_engine_oils_harmful_european_engines.htm
and that tighter tolerances, extended drain intervals etc. make European/Japanese oils superior to American oils (and they are much more expensive). Hence why BITOG members are hoarding EU spec Castrol etc.BTW AFAIK the API standard and ILSAC standard are very lax compared to European (especially German) and Japanese standards.
[quote=”ScottBlue5″ post=49631][quote=”jay_ie” post=49614]With regards to oil grades look for the German manufacturers approvals, Mercedes,VW, BMW & Porshe on the back of the oil container.
As a rule of thumb these guys are really strict about oil quality so if it has their endorsement you can’t go wrong.
(you’ll be surprised how many top end oil Brands don’t)[/quote]Meeting the performance standards for motor oils intended for European cars is not an endorsement. It just means the oil meets the performance standard required by a given European car company, i.e. BMW LL-01. This is not a BMW endorsement, just an oil performance standard. In the U.S., we use API ratings, such as SL, SM and the most current is SN, but European car manufacturers have their own standards because the vehicles in Europe generally have to deal with very different usage compared to American cars, so the motor oils must meet very different performance standards as well. This is why the American Petroleum Institute, (or API), oil standards don’t apply to European vehicles and vice versa.[/quote]
Pretty sure that this is an AMSOIL PR blurp page http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/articles/american_engine_oils_harmful_european_engines.htm
and that tighter tolerances, extended drain intervals etc. make European/Japanese oils superior to American oils (and they are much more expensive). Hence why BITOG members are hoarding EU spec Castrol etc.BTW AFAIK the API standard and ILSAC standard are very lax compared to European (especially German) and Japanese standards.
[quote=”Lord Ihcalam” post=49637][quote=”ScottBlue5″ post=49627]
Most, “synthetic oils”, that you see down at auto parts stores, (and I suspect some of the O.E. vehicle branded, “synthetic oils” as well), are what is known as Group III, “synthetic oils”. These oils are merely petroleum oils subjected to more refining and they are not true Group IV PAO or Group V Ester based synthetic oils that can have a vastly greater film strength than petroleum, (Group II), and Group III, “synthetic oils”. These Group III, “synthetic oils”, also don’t share all the superior performance and protection characteristics that a true Group IV or Group V synthetic oil offers, such as superior high and low temperature performance/protection, superior heat transfer characteristics/reduced engine operating temperatures and traditional PAO/Ester based synthetic oils are totally devoid of all the naturally occurring contaminants that can’t all be refined out of a petroleum oil and this is one of the keys to understanding why PAO/Ester based synthetic oils are so superior.[/quote]
1:not the color of the oil the color of the bottle it comes in.
2: if it isnt full synthetic, i’m filing a class action lawsuit against Quaker State, penzoil and any other brand on the shelf that claims to have fully synthetic oil on the bottles label.
3: i take back the above, because after actually doing some research, quaker state is full synthetic http://www.quakerstate.com/#/motor-oil/ultimate-durability so is penzoil http://pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-ultra-synthetic-oil/#Specifications%5B/quote%5DEven pennzoil ultra is “only” group III by their own admission on BITOG http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44624 (quoted here.. removed since pennzoil stopped their collaboration with BITOG).
In the MSDS it says
“2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Fischer-Tropsch derived base oil, consisting largely of branched, cyclic and linear hydrocarbons
having carbon numbers in the range of C18 to C50.
Highly refined mineral oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils and additives.
The highly refined mineral oil contains <3% (w/w) DMSO-extract, according to IP346.
The highly refined mineral oil is only present as additive diluent."Basically they use gas to liquid and hydrocracking and are nowhere near true fully synthetic. AFAIK the only place you can be 100% sure the label conforms to content is in Germany where synthetic means fully synthetic group IV and V. Everything else including blends must be labeled "teil-synthetic" or "part synthetic" in English.
More here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1935277
[quote=”Lord Ihcalam” post=49637][quote=”ScottBlue5″ post=49627]
Most, “synthetic oils”, that you see down at auto parts stores, (and I suspect some of the O.E. vehicle branded, “synthetic oils” as well), are what is known as Group III, “synthetic oils”. These oils are merely petroleum oils subjected to more refining and they are not true Group IV PAO or Group V Ester based synthetic oils that can have a vastly greater film strength than petroleum, (Group II), and Group III, “synthetic oils”. These Group III, “synthetic oils”, also don’t share all the superior performance and protection characteristics that a true Group IV or Group V synthetic oil offers, such as superior high and low temperature performance/protection, superior heat transfer characteristics/reduced engine operating temperatures and traditional PAO/Ester based synthetic oils are totally devoid of all the naturally occurring contaminants that can’t all be refined out of a petroleum oil and this is one of the keys to understanding why PAO/Ester based synthetic oils are so superior.[/quote]
1:not the color of the oil the color of the bottle it comes in.
2: if it isnt full synthetic, i’m filing a class action lawsuit against Quaker State, penzoil and any other brand on the shelf that claims to have fully synthetic oil on the bottles label.
3: i take back the above, because after actually doing some research, quaker state is full synthetic http://www.quakerstate.com/#/motor-oil/ultimate-durability so is penzoil http://pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-ultra-synthetic-oil/#Specifications%5B/quote%5DEven pennzoil ultra is “only” group III by their own admission on BITOG http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44624 (quoted here.. removed since pennzoil stopped their collaboration with BITOG).
In the MSDS it says
“2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Fischer-Tropsch derived base oil, consisting largely of branched, cyclic and linear hydrocarbons
having carbon numbers in the range of C18 to C50.
Highly refined mineral oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils and additives.
The highly refined mineral oil contains <3% (w/w) DMSO-extract, according to IP346.
The highly refined mineral oil is only present as additive diluent."Basically they use gas to liquid and hydrocracking and are nowhere near true fully synthetic. AFAIK the only place you can be 100% sure the label conforms to content is in Germany where synthetic means fully synthetic group IV and V. Everything else including blends must be labeled "teil-synthetic" or "part synthetic" in English.
More here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1935277