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np.. let us know if you need more help. If you cant seem to figure it out take some picture of the bottom and the bottom side of the car. It would be easy to put some arrows on then.
You can clean it yourself using brake cleaner or MAF cleaner. Spray it good from all directions BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! The break very easily and are somewhat expensive.
Don’t be deterred however, it takes 5 minutes and might save you a lot of money. Follow the breather hos from the filter towards the engine. If there is a MAF it usually sits in a plastik part of the tubing and has a connector going to it. Disconnect the wire and the top of the filter and loosen the clamp holding the pipe to the intake manifold. Spray wire and put back on.You can clean it yourself using brake cleaner or MAF cleaner. Spray it good from all directions BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! The break very easily and are somewhat expensive.
Don’t be deterred however, it takes 5 minutes and might save you a lot of money. Follow the breather hos from the filter towards the engine. If there is a MAF it usually sits in a plastik part of the tubing and has a connector going to it. Disconnect the wire and the top of the filter and loosen the clamp holding the pipe to the intake manifold. Spray wire and put back on.Hard to tell. You could try to take a wet piece of tissue and wipe some of the dust off on it. Let it sit for a couple of hours and if you see a red/orange aura diffusing in the paper it is rust (good test for blood also ;)).
If it stays it is soot an normal. It depends on the weather and cold starts. Mine looked like dry coffee grime was on it the last time I changed, but I was running my car in short, cold conditions a lot. It is called dry fouling of the spark plugs if it gets all black, but dry.
You wouldn’t really get rust unless there is humidity and humidity in the bad way would come from coolant. Coolant on plugs looks different however.
Do you know if you engine block is cast iron or aluminium? Cast iron blocks will shed a little iron dust when they wear. That is unavoidable.P.s. It would be nice to know you make and model, year and mileage also?
Hard to tell. You could try to take a wet piece of tissue and wipe some of the dust off on it. Let it sit for a couple of hours and if you see a red/orange aura diffusing in the paper it is rust (good test for blood also ;)).
If it stays it is soot an normal. It depends on the weather and cold starts. Mine looked like dry coffee grime was on it the last time I changed, but I was running my car in short, cold conditions a lot. It is called dry fouling of the spark plugs if it gets all black, but dry.
You wouldn’t really get rust unless there is humidity and humidity in the bad way would come from coolant. Coolant on plugs looks different however.
Do you know if you engine block is cast iron or aluminium? Cast iron blocks will shed a little iron dust when they wear. That is unavoidable.P.s. It would be nice to know you make and model, year and mileage also?
Powdered gloves have been phased out due to the large amount of allergies user got from them. This is worst with latex gloves (which don’t protect as well) which used to be powdered with corn starch. Newer gloves use titanium silicate, but it decreases reliability of the glove and increases skin susceptibility to chemicals.
Good thing you are using nitrile gloves though. No point in getting 5 limbed babies on top of a bad back and sore knees ;).
I highly recommend ventilation also as painters brain (does that term exist in english?) is a common risk due to the high exposure to harsh chemicals and solvents.
Powdered gloves have been phased out due to the large amount of allergies user got from them. This is worst with latex gloves (which don’t protect as well) which used to be powdered with corn starch. Newer gloves use titanium silicate, but it decreases reliability of the glove and increases skin susceptibility to chemicals.
Good thing you are using nitrile gloves though. No point in getting 5 limbed babies on top of a bad back and sore knees ;).
I highly recommend ventilation also as painters brain (does that term exist in english?) is a common risk due to the high exposure to harsh chemicals and solvents.
Less likely as to what you are describing, but putting it out there anyways.
A dirty MAF or any other thing that makes the engine run irregular can translate into jerky, rough gearchanges with slight teeth grinding. I am not exactly sure if that fits your discription but a transmission clunk can create that sound and feel. I believe it is due to the engine and transmission synchronization being off as the engine adjusts revs too slowly.Less likely as to what you are describing, but putting it out there anyways.
A dirty MAF or any other thing that makes the engine run irregular can translate into jerky, rough gearchanges with slight teeth grinding. I am not exactly sure if that fits your discription but a transmission clunk can create that sound and feel. I believe it is due to the engine and transmission synchronization being off as the engine adjusts revs too slowly.A mechanical engineer told me that the wear from not pre-filling the filters equates to 5-700miles of driving wear on the cylinder surface. He explained it as because there is no oil pressure the cylinders are being pressure blown free of oil film quickly.
Seeing how much you can pour into a filter (usually takes 3 times while letting it digest each gulp) I can’t see it as being a bad idea to not pre-soak the filter medium before putting it on there. There is a reason filters have anti-drainback valves?
As a question, is there any way a empty filter could cause foaming for the first few minutes until it is soaked all the way through and not releasing air anymore. As it is not a on off swift I would imagine the filter leaking air out while filling over the first minutes of running, similar to that of water conserving inlays for your fosset?
A mechanical engineer told me that the wear from not pre-filling the filters equates to 5-700miles of driving wear on the cylinder surface. He explained it as because there is no oil pressure the cylinders are being pressure blown free of oil film quickly.
Seeing how much you can pour into a filter (usually takes 3 times while letting it digest each gulp) I can’t see it as being a bad idea to not pre-soak the filter medium before putting it on there. There is a reason filters have anti-drainback valves?
As a question, is there any way a empty filter could cause foaming for the first few minutes until it is soaked all the way through and not releasing air anymore. As it is not a on off swift I would imagine the filter leaking air out while filling over the first minutes of running, similar to that of water conserving inlays for your fosset?
Let me help you out
On the first picture you can see a BMW with lift points where it is pinch welded. There is no real access to the frame. I found it on a BMW forum with lift point put in.
On the second picture you can see a car with exposed frame. You can lift on the square steel tubes or at the (x) if there is a solid ball joint. The (x) is vehicle specific and I wouldn’t do on the car in the picture as it looks too flimsy and the frame is easily accessible.
Hope it helps.
BTW, if you let us known the year an model of the car it would help a lot 🙂
Let me help you out
On the first picture you can see a BMW with lift points where it is pinch welded. There is no real access to the frame. I found it on a BMW forum with lift point put in.
On the second picture you can see a car with exposed frame. You can lift on the square steel tubes or at the (x) if there is a solid ball joint. The (x) is vehicle specific and I wouldn’t do on the car in the picture as it looks too flimsy and the frame is easily accessible.
Hope it helps.
BTW, if you let us known the year an model of the car it would help a lot 🙂
What lord Ihcalam said.
Put up a picture if in doubt.
Here are a few links to help you diagnose
Normal operation:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Zl3HQgWfsPc/TAaRbYTjUnI/AAAAAAAAD9M/mMWXiGIFQMY/s1600/honda-spark-plug-inspection-chart.jpgNormal and faulty operation:
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/resources/6795/assets/images/FAQs/electrics/check_spark_plug_condition.jpgWhat lord Ihcalam said.
Put up a picture if in doubt.
Here are a few links to help you diagnose
Normal operation:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Zl3HQgWfsPc/TAaRbYTjUnI/AAAAAAAAD9M/mMWXiGIFQMY/s1600/honda-spark-plug-inspection-chart.jpgNormal and faulty operation:
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/resources/6795/assets/images/FAQs/electrics/check_spark_plug_condition.jpg
