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I would put one of these on http://www.kahtec.com/index.htmAnd change the brake light to a high power LED bulb (it is 1157 according to the web).
Having seen how Americans drive in those houses on wheels (Tahoes etc.) combined with the legal right turn rule, I would make myself as visible as possible.
P.s.
I would put one of these on http://www.kahtec.com/index.htmAnd change the brake light to a high power LED bulb (it is 1157 according to the web).
Having seen how Americans drive in those houses on wheels (Tahoes etc.) combined with the legal right turn rule, I would make myself as visible as possible.
[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=54632]Just got me a 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250: 🙂
Q: can anyone recommend a good modulator at a good price?
Q: One question that I get asked a lot is, “How’s come motorcycles can redline at 19k RPM and car engines redline at 6k RPM?” I often reply that is has something to do with roller bearings used on pushrods as opposed to auto engines which usually use no lifters. Is this true, mostly true, partially true, or are there other significant factors that determine redline performance for these engines?
Q: What brand of oil and at what interval do ye’ change your motorcycle oil..? I’ve heard some people say they like to use royal purple for their motorcycles. What do ye’ think?[/quote]
A:
I don’t use modulators, just set my lights a bit high and run them all day every day. High beams in fog in the daytime. They are a good idea though. Buy some powerful LED position lights too. Let me know if you need help finding some good ones.A:
Not my expertise, but I think it is a combination of many things. I believe many MC engines have short strokes so the piston does not move as far as in cars. They also use very high quality parts compared to car engines making them stronger and lighter (titanium valve springs, forged internals etc.). You can get everything very close to the maximum theoretical piston speed by making everything very light, thereby reducing inertia, but it will cost you torque as evident by most race engines.A:
I would not use redline oil for my motorcycle. In their commercials (spike TV etc) they show how using redline will give you more HP. That can only happen by reducing friction. As a motorcycle clutch is wet you depend on friction and using the wrong oil will toast you clutch in a few miles and can’t be fixed unless you flush everything and buy new clutch plates.
Look in your owners manual for the correct viscosity AND approvals. If it is very lax, call kawasaki and ask what specification the oil should meet (JASO-MA2 etc). Oil is more than viscosity and API and ILSAC classifications are not strict enough for European and Japanese engines.[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=54632]Just got me a 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250: 🙂
Q: can anyone recommend a good modulator at a good price?
Q: One question that I get asked a lot is, “How’s come motorcycles can redline at 19k RPM and car engines redline at 6k RPM?” I often reply that is has something to do with roller bearings used on pushrods as opposed to auto engines which usually use no lifters. Is this true, mostly true, partially true, or are there other significant factors that determine redline performance for these engines?
Q: What brand of oil and at what interval do ye’ change your motorcycle oil..? I’ve heard some people say they like to use royal purple for their motorcycles. What do ye’ think?[/quote]
A:
I don’t use modulators, just set my lights a bit high and run them all day every day. High beams in fog in the daytime. They are a good idea though. Buy some powerful LED position lights too. Let me know if you need help finding some good ones.A:
Not my expertise, but I think it is a combination of many things. I believe many MC engines have short strokes so the piston does not move as far as in cars. They also use very high quality parts compared to car engines making them stronger and lighter (titanium valve springs, forged internals etc.). You can get everything very close to the maximum theoretical piston speed by making everything very light, thereby reducing inertia, but it will cost you torque as evident by most race engines.A:
I would not use redline oil for my motorcycle. In their commercials (spike TV etc) they show how using redline will give you more HP. That can only happen by reducing friction. As a motorcycle clutch is wet you depend on friction and using the wrong oil will toast you clutch in a few miles and can’t be fixed unless you flush everything and buy new clutch plates.
Look in your owners manual for the correct viscosity AND approvals. If it is very lax, call kawasaki and ask what specification the oil should meet (JASO-MA2 etc). Oil is more than viscosity and API and ILSAC classifications are not strict enough for European and Japanese engines.Nice 250 :).
Small bikes are so much fun. It is my daily wish that manufacturers would revive the 4 cyl <500cc sport bikes again.Nice 250 :).
Small bikes are so much fun. It is my daily wish that manufacturers would revive the 4 cyl <500cc sport bikes again.[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=54110]Yes… the dreaded heater core. Probably the most difficult HVAC repair to perform. If you are lucky, it might be as easy to replace as the one seen in this video:
a classic example of a cheap part, but a tremendous cost in labor.[/quote]
I am so glad you wrote that. Ever since I changed a heater core in a 99 taurus I have hated them. Time consuming and hard to get to and care is needed to not break plastic tabs etc. on dash panels.
If yours is as easy as posted go ahead OP, but if it is diffcult, can’t you just seal the leak with a rubber tube wrapped around the pipe and one of these
?[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=54110]Yes… the dreaded heater core. Probably the most difficult HVAC repair to perform. If you are lucky, it might be as easy to replace as the one seen in this video:
a classic example of a cheap part, but a tremendous cost in labor.[/quote]
I am so glad you wrote that. Ever since I changed a heater core in a 99 taurus I have hated them. Time consuming and hard to get to and care is needed to not break plastic tabs etc. on dash panels.
If yours is as easy as posted go ahead OP, but if it is diffcult, can’t you just seal the leak with a rubber tube wrapped around the pipe and one of these
?Nope. Makes no difference after muffler. Most straight 4s I have seen benefit more from single pipe systems.
Nope. Makes no difference after muffler. Most straight 4s I have seen benefit more from single pipe systems.
Here is why you should use the lowest viscosity possible where you live 🙂
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vQO2GzIUO4
10w is much worse.
The engine might crank but it is not lubricated and won’t be for a while until the oil melts from the combustion heat. It is bad.