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I’d guess throwout bearing as well, the water washes out the grease, heard of this happening to off-roader jeeps when they go too deep in the water.
Might want to change your trans oil as well, could have easily got water in there through the vent.I’ve found it works really well to just smear RTV over both sides of the gasket, and clean off any excess, it leaves the gasket tacky and it seals really well without any excess sealant to squeeze out.
I’ve heard the same arguments about whether it is or not, and I think the real answer is that it just barely is. I’ve seen the photos of destroyed valves and pistons after the chain broke on some, and others where nothing at all happened. I’m guessing it’s just luck that determines if all the valves happen to stop in a safe position.
It probably helps that the pistons don’t have valve reliefs cast into them, which means the valves only interfere at most for a tiny amount of time before the piston reaches TDC but by then the valve is starting to close so it’s out of the way. And probably the biggest help is that these engines are primitive enough to only have 2 valves per cylinder instead of 4 like most everything else.
Sorry dude, didn’t get that you were just complaining about the price. I think we all thought you were asking if you could just use regular!
That does seem high though, premium is about $.35 higher than regular around here.
In a word YES you are being ripped off, but not more than anyone else who goes to those cons.
*edit…I don’t mean so much in terms of price, but in terms of you having no idea whether they actually did the work. Those types of places are notorious for not doing the work at all (leaving with same oil filter you drove in with), or not giving you what you pay for (using conventional oil when you paid for synthetic oil). Etc.
Those things are possible at any shop but MUCH more likely at those quick-change type places. Better off at a regular mechanic or doing it yourself.
What does your owner’s manual say?
If your owner’s manual says that premium fuel is required, then you should do it, but your car won’t blow up if you occasionally opt for regular. If your owner’s manual says that premium fuel is recommended, then you can use regular gas all the time with no worries.
[quote=”NascarTurtle” post=154826]Got the pliers and it wasn’t enough 🙁
Had to go with the Screwdriver. It worked but totaled the filter into a chewed up can but finally got it off. Made sure to properly lubricate the new filter and we were good to go. Thanks for the help guys!Edit: Only reason pliers failed was because there is hardly any room under there. It’s really intended for the hand only approach which worked last time but this time I had no such luck.[/quote]
Sorry to hear they didn’t work, they do need a lot of room though. But good to hear you beat it into submission, I’ve had a couple gnarly ones over the years.
I’m not positive, but I don’t think they would have messed with the crank pulley when they replaced the sensor, it’s usually on the side of the engine somewhere. Might want to take a close look at that pulley, I’ve seen them rot out and blow apart at speed, not pretty.
Rockauto is usually my goto source for cheap parts but even they only go as low as $133. Your best bet might be to check the junk yards, either that or just live without the two low speeds. Just bought the blower resistor for my ’08 Taurus…$19 bucks. Luxury names bring luxery parts prices unfortunately.
I have an ’03 Rio but mine is an Automatic. I did however hear about an issue for some owners with sticks, that the pedal bracket partially breaks off from the fire wall. Might want to see if the bracket is firmly attached. If that is the problem though, you’re going to need to weld it back on.
You didn’t mention it so I’m going for the obvious one here, you did try adjusting the dash light dimmer knob, right? I’m amazed how many Honda owners thought their car just didn’t have one, but it does.
Headlights are a way bigger power draw than dash lights, so if the headlights aren’t dimming/brightening when you rev the engine then I’m guessing your battery and alt. are fine.
I have the same engine in my S10. These engines are clatter-happy to say the least.
If anything, you might want to consider changing the timing chain & tensioner if it’s never been done. These are interference engines, and will go kaboom if that chain breaks. The chains tend to quiet down when you accelerate, it’s mostly at idle that they’re noisy.For stubborn filters I highly recommend a filter pliers like this one:
It might tear a hole in the filter but I’ve never had it fail to get a filter off.
Really isn’t anything that can cause the sinking pedal other than 3 things; bad master cylinder, fluid leak, or air in the lines. It’s always possible that your new MC was bad out of the box, I’ve heard of several of those happening especially if it was a remanufactured unit. Always possible that there’s still air in there too, even though you’re sure you got it all (I speak from experience 😉 )
Since you don’t have any fluid loss your metal lines should be okay, and even the rubber lines can’t stretch enough to account for that much pedal travel. Although if you replaced the rubber hoses with braided brake hoses that would help tighten up the brake feel considerably.