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Sounds like this is the classic problem virtually all direct injection engines have, which is oil getting in the intake via the valve guides and/or the PCV system. They’re just trying to shift the blame onto you. I’d try to get an independent mechanic to verify and put it in writing.
Just occurred to me. It’s probably not a failed timing chain. Since you still have spark I think that means the ECU must be getting a signal from the camshaft sensor which means the cam is rotating.
Still a slight possibility that chain is at fault if the tensioner broke (which they are also known to do being so flimsy). The slack could allow the chain to skip a few teeth putting timing too far off to start. I doubt it would be the case but just throwing it out there.
*Edit* – looks like I put my foot in my mouth, from what I’ve been reading it’s the crank sensor that controls spark, the cam sensor controls the injectors.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=177040]The Vortec 2200 engine is a pushrod engine with the distributor driven off the camshaft, right? If so, remove the distributor cap and rotate the crankshaft by hand. If the distributor rotor doesn’t turn, the timing chain is gone.[/quote]
No distributor on these, totally electronic ignition. The older ones had a dizzy I think but not sure.
I have a ’98 with the same motor. I’ve heard of people having the timing chain let go. Makes me wonder since it died while driving. Once you do your compression check that will tell you if the valve train is still moving or not.
Was it just that there wasn’t any liquid oil left in the filter or does it look there never was any oil in it at all? Like the paper element is unused?
If it’s just that there wasn’t any liquid oil, it’s probably just that that particular filter had a bad anti-drainback valve that let the oil drain out of it when not running.
If, on the other hand, the filter is like new and never got wet with oil then the only thing I can think of is that some engines have a bypass valve that can bypass the filter circuit. You didn’t say what car you have so I can’t be more specific.
[quote=”crazyapple92″ post=175264]
After more research I’ve discovered something… weird. On level ground and when pointed up hill the temperature is fine. When I go downhill the gauge starts climbing almost instantly. Around 15 seconds of significant downhill will bring the gauge from normal almost all of the way to hot. Go back up hill or level out and it stops climbing. Park it up hill and leave it running and the temperature starts falling within a minute or so.I have zero clue why going downhill would be causing an overheat? Air pockets maybe, I’ve burped it again and again and I’ll do it some more. Any one have some ideas, I’m stumped?[/quote]
Sounds like an air pocket, if I remember right the temp sensor is on the back end of the head so when you’re facing downhill any air will rise up to the sensor and it will peg out as hot very fast. If it does happen to have a failing water pump it would make it very hard to ever get the air bled out properly.
I did a quick search online and it sounds like some guys like to run the engine while parked on a hill facing upwards to help purge the air out faster.This is a long shot but did anyone mess with the serpentine belt?
I got rid of a E150 with the 300 that kept overheating, I found out later it had a reverse-flow water pump on it and someone altered the belt’s routing so it would turn opposite from normal. When I put the belt back to the proper route I unknowingly caused my pump to not work any more.
Like I said it’s a long shot that you have the same reverse pump problem, BUT you might want to verify the belt routing, might be turning the pump the wrong way. Also, if there’s rust in the coolant the impeller fins may have deteriorated on the pump and it’s not pumping much.
Oops, sorry, double-posted by accident. Moderator please delete this post if you want to. (need to have option to delete a post!)
[quote=”LionsA4″ post=175236]I’m curious, could he take a 4G64 from any of the transverse cars on that list?
Because 1994-2003 Galants, 1999-2005 Sonatas, and 2000-2005 Optimas seem like the the opposite of salvage yard rarities.[/quote]
I’d like to know that myself. This reminds me of the Chevy 2.2, it was in both S-10 pickups and in Cavaliers (transversely) and I think they were interchangable. I think the only issue was motor mount holes.
I believe it’s on the side of the radiator (passenger side, an inch or two up from the bottom). Real pain to access from what I’ve heard, might be easier to just pull the hose like jjohnson said.
[quote=”shaun” post=174904]Instead of jumping the gun and scaring him. Maybe check the above post first. If it’s burning it like that you would see it. Crawl underneath. See if there is traces or drench in oil[/quote]
Firstly, the very first thing I said was to verify no leaks….
Secondly, you don’t see it burning. That’s why it sneaks up on people and they run the sump dry. No smoke, no smell, nothing but a dry dipstick as evidence.Firstly of course verify that there’s no leak anywhere. Now with that said, this is a common problem with Toyotas over the last few years. It’s more than likely eating all of it due to bad piston rings. Always possible this isn’t your issue but I personally know 3 people dealing with a Toyota eating oil like candy so it’s the first thing that jumps into my mind.
Check this site to see what I mean. Your car isn’t listed but it’s an ever-growing problem with more cars than they’ll admit being affected. Just do a search for excessive oil consumption + Yaris and you’ll find you’re not at all alone in this.
Luckily you at least got some good mileage out of the car, far as I know there isn’t a whole lot to do other than replacing all the rings which will cost nearly as much as a rebuild.Is there vacuum going to the FPR? I’m not familiar at all with your car but I found an image of the FPR and it looks like it uses vacuum to modulate flow. Since you know the problem started there you might want to just replace it if you can.
I’d start with the basics, eliminate the oil gauge/sensor as being faulty then try swapping the oil pump with another one (might try OEM just to see).
Is there any noise from the engine when the pressure goes low? The fact that it gets progressively worse with heat sounds like it’s a clearance issue somewhere. Was there any warranty from the rebuild shop?
[quote=”mkymnzns” post=174637]
Actually yes, when the compressor engages both fans start. The shake is feels more like it’s losing power with the load since it’s also pulling down the RPM. Try to imagine that the engine is fighting to stay alive when the compressor load kicks in.[/quote]I’d say a 200 rpm drop is within the normal range for most cars. It feels like it’s losing power because it really IS losing power! My Kia Rio is nearly undrivable with the a/c turned on. I have to turn the A/C off just to merge onto the highway, pass someone, etc. Just a fact of life with most 4-banger cars.