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Who or what source told you that any OBD II car would use a 170º thermostat? The wrong thermostat can affect loop status, emissions, and fuel economy. Overheating at idle is a really good sign that your cooling fan(s) aren’t working. Regardless of any brand you decide to buy, get a 195º thermostat back in it. Eric’s got a good video for bleeding air out of the cooling system. Then start diagnosing the actual root cause of your overheating problem.
Who or what source told you that any OBD II car would use a 170º thermostat? The wrong thermostat can affect loop status, emissions, and fuel economy. Overheating at idle is a really good sign that your cooling fan(s) aren’t working. Regardless of any brand you decide to buy, get a 195º thermostat back in it. Eric’s got a good video for bleeding air out of the cooling system. Then start diagnosing the actual root cause of your overheating problem.
You’re right, I should have been asking for a fox body LTD. But, it’s not entirely untrue that the fox body LTD’s didn’t in some part have a Victoria name plate to them. Unfortunately, I can’t find the pictures anymore to prove it. I found an LTD wagon a couple years ago, I think in Pennsylvania, via internet. They thoroughly photographed the car, including the VIN placard on the door and that placard had actually said “Victoria” just off the bar code. Ford was so obnoxious interchangably throwing nameplates around that I’m surprised they didn’t wind up making an F150 Crown Victoria wagon….long bed…country squire…4×4…LTD…Eddie Bauer…Galaxie. I’ll see what I can do about finding some proof. In the meantime, I’m still looking for that unicorn fart fox body.
You’re right, I should have been asking for a fox body LTD. But, it’s not entirely untrue that the fox body LTD’s didn’t in some part have a Victoria name plate to them. Unfortunately, I can’t find the pictures anymore to prove it. I found an LTD wagon a couple years ago, I think in Pennsylvania, via internet. They thoroughly photographed the car, including the VIN placard on the door and that placard had actually said “Victoria” just off the bar code. Ford was so obnoxious interchangably throwing nameplates around that I’m surprised they didn’t wind up making an F150 Crown Victoria wagon….long bed…country squire…4×4…LTD…Eddie Bauer…Galaxie. I’ll see what I can do about finding some proof. In the meantime, I’m still looking for that unicorn fart fox body.
The fuel is a blend of 1.5 year old gas and 1.5 day old gas…heavy on the day old stuff. The old gas still smelled like gas and most of it got pulled out of tank and poured into another car which is drinking it up just fine so far. Maybe I’ll have a new problem to report on a Buick next week.
The fuel is a blend of 1.5 year old gas and 1.5 day old gas…heavy on the day old stuff. The old gas still smelled like gas and most of it got pulled out of tank and poured into another car which is drinking it up just fine so far. Maybe I’ll have a new problem to report on a Buick next week.
I decided not to list the sway bar links/bushings, nor the noisy strut caps because suspension/steering parts in general are pattern failure parts. They take all the road abuse and they’re going to die no matter what. On top of that, once I stopped being a fleet mechanic and started being a service mechanic, I almost never get complaints for the sway bar stuff. (Same thing with engine mounts. Taxi purpose Caravans ate up engine mounts. I haven’t been able to sell a single mount yet.) It’s kind of ironic to me that I can say the Caravan ball joints are really strong considering so many other Chrysler vehicles have such lousy steering and suspension parts that are trash in 30K. I’ll steal oil changes from lube techs just so I can try and sell control arms, ball joints, and tie rods on anything mopar.
I decided not to list the sway bar links/bushings, nor the noisy strut caps because suspension/steering parts in general are pattern failure parts. They take all the road abuse and they’re going to die no matter what. On top of that, once I stopped being a fleet mechanic and started being a service mechanic, I almost never get complaints for the sway bar stuff. (Same thing with engine mounts. Taxi purpose Caravans ate up engine mounts. I haven’t been able to sell a single mount yet.) It’s kind of ironic to me that I can say the Caravan ball joints are really strong considering so many other Chrysler vehicles have such lousy steering and suspension parts that are trash in 30K. I’ll steal oil changes from lube techs just so I can try and sell control arms, ball joints, and tie rods on anything mopar.
I’ve been reading up a little on Passlock for a crank/no start on my Blazer. Passlock should only cut fuel injection. You’d still be able to crank the engine consistently. If you wanted to cover bases anyway, the security light should turn off in three seconds of turning the key on and shouldn’t be lit while cranking.
I’ve been reading up a little on Passlock for a crank/no start on my Blazer. Passlock should only cut fuel injection. You’d still be able to crank the engine consistently. If you wanted to cover bases anyway, the security light should turn off in three seconds of turning the key on and shouldn’t be lit while cranking.
You’ve got to consider how the manufacturer defines the word “lifetime”. It’s not necessarily just a definition of years, but more so a definition of mileage. I know a couple manufacturers specify a lifetime for their vehicles/powertrains as 250,000 miles. Ford recently released an “extended warranty” for lighting control modules on 03 through 05 Ford Crown Victorias, Mercury Grand Marquis, and the Marauders for 15 years, 250,000 miles; whichever comes first. That’s probably about the same “lifetime” of your Explorer. It’s practically measured in dog years. 😀
You’ve got to consider how the manufacturer defines the word “lifetime”. It’s not necessarily just a definition of years, but more so a definition of mileage. I know a couple manufacturers specify a lifetime for their vehicles/powertrains as 250,000 miles. Ford recently released an “extended warranty” for lighting control modules on 03 through 05 Ford Crown Victorias, Mercury Grand Marquis, and the Marauders for 15 years, 250,000 miles; whichever comes first. That’s probably about the same “lifetime” of your Explorer. It’s practically measured in dog years. 😀
Whining means it’s too tight. I’ve made that mistake a couple times myself. Going down the belt off the right side of the cam sprocket, you should have at least 6mm or a ¼” of belt deflection. I can never remember anything precisely, so verify for yourself. I believe the spec was 6-10 mm of deflection If the timing component kit was any good, the directions should have also provided the spec.
Even better now that I’m thinking about it, Hyundai/Kia gives you free access to factory service manuals. Go to https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ and get yourself a user name and password. You’re on your own for the learning curve in how to navigate the site. I still fumble a little with it myself when I need it. You might have guessed it, https://www.kiatechinfo.com/ for any Kias you might feel like working on next.
Whining means it’s too tight. I’ve made that mistake a couple times myself. Going down the belt off the right side of the cam sprocket, you should have at least 6mm or a ¼” of belt deflection. I can never remember anything precisely, so verify for yourself. I believe the spec was 6-10 mm of deflection If the timing component kit was any good, the directions should have also provided the spec.
Even better now that I’m thinking about it, Hyundai/Kia gives you free access to factory service manuals. Go to https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ and get yourself a user name and password. You’re on your own for the learning curve in how to navigate the site. I still fumble a little with it myself when I need it. You might have guessed it, https://www.kiatechinfo.com/ for any Kias you might feel like working on next.
Talk to your local auto parts store and see if they loan/rent tools. Any store that does loan tools should have a fuel pressure gauge. GM is pretty good about giving you a test port on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure. In the mean time, go back and verify you’ve got all your electrical connections actually connected.