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What I eventually figured out about that other scope trace for the Blazer is that in spite of trying to push the back probes in straight, you can find the wrong terminals through a weather pack connector. My channel one cycling voltage was because I was hitting the same terminal as channel two. Channels three and four were likewise both back probing the coil driver terminal. Things like this is why this is my personal motto: “If it can be done wrong, I can do it.” Once I got my shit together, I was able to quickly diagnose a bad ignition module. I borrowed the module out of the S10, promptly zapped myself with the Blazer coil wire, and then ordered a new module off Amazon. As luck would have it, I’ve lost fuel pressure again. At least there’s time to address that while waiting for the module to get here.
I’d suggest an immediate oil change, check the air filter box for rodents nests, load test the battery, and fill the gas tank with some fresh gas. Aside from that, start putting some miles on it. I doubt the seals would be in bad shape. Even though she never got the car up to operating temperature, she at least had the car running periodically.
I’d suggest an immediate oil change, check the air filter box for rodents nests, load test the battery, and fill the gas tank with some fresh gas. Aside from that, start putting some miles on it. I doubt the seals would be in bad shape. Even though she never got the car up to operating temperature, she at least had the car running periodically.
Ford’s on plug coils are notorious pattern failure parts. Just the same, it’s always more fun and economical to prove the part that’s actually failing. Why replace the coil AND the injector when only one of them might be causing the problem. Some easy and free diagnostics are to simply swap the coil with another nearby cylinder and then swap the spark plug with yet another cylinder. Then drive the car for a bit and look to see if you’ve gained a new misfire code. Lets say you swap coils between three and four and then swap plugs between two and four. If you gain a P0303, that coil is junk. If you gain P0302, your plug is fouled somehow. If your misfire code stays at cylinder four, then you can swap an injector the same way you swapped the coils. If the problem still stays at number four, you’ve still got more diagnosing to do, but you’ve saved yourself at least a fifty dollar bill on parts you didn’t need to replace.
The thing about cylinder four on those 4.6’s in that car is that so many parts rub on other parts in that spot. Your heater core hoses and your evap purge solenoid are in that area and the number four coil and injector connectors can get broken wires right where they exit their connectors. They tend to rub through from contact with those other parts. Do a good visual inspection while you’re looking at and swapping around parts. You might have the car diagnosed before you even turn a screw out.
Good luck.
Ford’s on plug coils are notorious pattern failure parts. Just the same, it’s always more fun and economical to prove the part that’s actually failing. Why replace the coil AND the injector when only one of them might be causing the problem. Some easy and free diagnostics are to simply swap the coil with another nearby cylinder and then swap the spark plug with yet another cylinder. Then drive the car for a bit and look to see if you’ve gained a new misfire code. Lets say you swap coils between three and four and then swap plugs between two and four. If you gain a P0303, that coil is junk. If you gain P0302, your plug is fouled somehow. If your misfire code stays at cylinder four, then you can swap an injector the same way you swapped the coils. If the problem still stays at number four, you’ve still got more diagnosing to do, but you’ve saved yourself at least a fifty dollar bill on parts you didn’t need to replace.
The thing about cylinder four on those 4.6’s in that car is that so many parts rub on other parts in that spot. Your heater core hoses and your evap purge solenoid are in that area and the number four coil and injector connectors can get broken wires right where they exit their connectors. They tend to rub through from contact with those other parts. Do a good visual inspection while you’re looking at and swapping around parts. You might have the car diagnosed before you even turn a screw out.
Good luck.
I say no it’s not foolish. I just had to turn down a job at a combination repair/body shop due to a back injury. What I was told at the interview was that often enough, when one side of the shop was slow, the other is busy. Since you’re headed for a job field where pay is based largely on available broken stuff, the combination of body and mechanical should open more windows for you and reduce any potential down time. Not to mention it opens up the number of places you’d be able to submite rèsumès.
A lot of your collision damage is going to include suspension and steering repairs so you’ll need some talent in mechanical repairs anyway. There’s a lot more going on in steering and suspension nowadays with electronic stability controls so you’d probably need to get acclimated to using a voltmeter whether for body or mechanical repairs.
The down side is that you’re probably going to be in school longer and your tool bill is going to get fatter. Then again, I just don’t see the down side in that. Whatever you decide to do, make the best of your schooling and good luck.
I say no it’s not foolish. I just had to turn down a job at a combination repair/body shop due to a back injury. What I was told at the interview was that often enough, when one side of the shop was slow, the other is busy. Since you’re headed for a job field where pay is based largely on available broken stuff, the combination of body and mechanical should open more windows for you and reduce any potential down time. Not to mention it opens up the number of places you’d be able to submite rèsumès.
A lot of your collision damage is going to include suspension and steering repairs so you’ll need some talent in mechanical repairs anyway. There’s a lot more going on in steering and suspension nowadays with electronic stability controls so you’d probably need to get acclimated to using a voltmeter whether for body or mechanical repairs.
The down side is that you’re probably going to be in school longer and your tool bill is going to get fatter. Then again, I just don’t see the down side in that. Whatever you decide to do, make the best of your schooling and good luck.
The belt and pulley would probably be just fine in the aftermarket, but I’d want to go OE on the pump. I’ve had good luck with Dayco and Gates timing belts. I do seem to recall some complaints about Gates belts being too noisy though. I can’t say I’ve experienced such a problem myself though.
The belt and pulley would probably be just fine in the aftermarket, but I’d want to go OE on the pump. I’ve had good luck with Dayco and Gates timing belts. I do seem to recall some complaints about Gates belts being too noisy though. I can’t say I’ve experienced such a problem myself though.
Probably not. There’s two ways in which your car would be tested. One is an exhaust gas analyzer and the other is a system check that verifies the PCM has passed all the OBD monitors. Disconnecting the battery wipes out the PCM’s memory of all the pass/fail data of those monitors. There are some finicky enable criteria to rerun those monitors and it can take a couple weeks for the PCM to complete those monitors depending on your driving habits. When you take your car in for inspection and they see any one of those monitors say incomplete, it’s an automatic fail. If those monitors have failed, it increases the likelihood that your car would fail with an exhaust gas analyzer too. There’s a lot of finer details that are going to depend on your state regulations too. Bottom line is you’re going to need to fix your car first.
Probably not. There’s two ways in which your car would be tested. One is an exhaust gas analyzer and the other is a system check that verifies the PCM has passed all the OBD monitors. Disconnecting the battery wipes out the PCM’s memory of all the pass/fail data of those monitors. There are some finicky enable criteria to rerun those monitors and it can take a couple weeks for the PCM to complete those monitors depending on your driving habits. When you take your car in for inspection and they see any one of those monitors say incomplete, it’s an automatic fail. If those monitors have failed, it increases the likelihood that your car would fail with an exhaust gas analyzer too. There’s a lot of finer details that are going to depend on your state regulations too. Bottom line is you’re going to need to fix your car first.
I’d consider that it’s leaking past one of its own seals internally. I haven’t dealt with a Focus slave cylinder so I went to rock auto to get some pictures & it looks like your slave cylinder is mounted around the input shaft inside the transmission. Considering how little fluid volume most hydraulic clutch systems have, I’d also consider the slave cylinder to be able to leak for a while before you’d ever see it get to the bottom of the bell housing. Do you have a means to peek into the bell housing without removing the transmission?
I’d consider that it’s leaking past one of its own seals internally. I haven’t dealt with a Focus slave cylinder so I went to rock auto to get some pictures & it looks like your slave cylinder is mounted around the input shaft inside the transmission. Considering how little fluid volume most hydraulic clutch systems have, I’d also consider the slave cylinder to be able to leak for a while before you’d ever see it get to the bottom of the bell housing. Do you have a means to peek into the bell housing without removing the transmission?
If it’s still relative to Ford, that means it’s also a unicorn fart with a superceded part number and a revised design on vehichles with a build date after april 1st.