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Considering everything is new in front, check your tire pressures first. That’s an easy place to overlook the obvious. If that doesn’t solve anything, put some time into inspecting your rear suspension. If you’re still content it’s in the front end, then it’s time to shake the front wheel bearings for play and, likewise, check the joints in the intermediate and lower steering shafts for play. At least one Wheel bearing is probably due given the mileage. Prove them faulty before you just go replacing either of them. But, if you find a problem in a steering shaft or its joint, it’s a one in a million fault.
I’m not familiar with that engine, but I’ll throw one possibility at you. Try replacing the oil filter. Maybe it’s a faulty drain back valve issue.
I oil my impact and blast them down while pretending I haven’t seen my torque wrench in months. Better yet; What’s a torque wrench?
OK OK. I pulled up specs in Identifix and it showed 55 lb ft. No torque angle specs either. But then I went into service info and found this:
1. Install the trailing arm (3) to the trailing arm bracket.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.2 . Install the bolt (7) and nut (4) to the trailing arm (3) and the trailing arm bracket.
Tighten:Tighten the bolt and nut to 110 [n-m] (81 lb ft).
3. Install the trailing arm (3) to the knuckle (8).
4. Install the bolt (6) and nut (2) to the trailing arm (3) and the knuckle (8).
Tighten:Tighten the nut to 240 [n-m] (177 lb ft).
5. Lower the vehicle.
I’d encourage you to run with 177 lb ft even though it does look like a steep spec if the bolt has an M14 or larger thread diameter. I find that Identifix will eff you over trusting specs they print in their specification menus. Pulling the specs straight off the service info like I posted above comes copied straight out of the factory manuals.
I only put an effort into finding you that trailing arm to knuckle spec. The rest is up to you. One way or the next, I’d ignore any spec you found with a torque angle spec.
Good luck.
If it will make the same squeal turning full locked to the left as well, I might think the serpentine belt is worn and/or loose. If you think it might be at the wheels or in the suspension, I’d want to look for a severely worn wheel bearing. If they’re effed bad enough, they can sometimes make odd noises you didn’t know they could. Then it’s a matter of getting the vehicle up in the air to do a good visual inspection. Look for evidence of something rubbing on something else in the wheel wells. Even the dust shields should be looked at. Nothing should be rubbing on anything.
A stream of water on your floor mat would be an indicator that the drain for your AC evaporator is likely plugged up. Water condensation and runoff is normal with AC operation, but it should be able to drain out in the engine compartment and not on your floorboards.
Older Honda/Acuras used to have the occasional problem with shifter cables breaking a strand inside the sheathing and it would then cause a bind like you’re experiencing. Disconnect the cable at the transmission and I’ll bet it shifts in and out of park just fine at the transmission. The shifter will still be stuck trying to push it into reverse or park. I even had a couple of my own Hondas fail on me and I just muscled the shifter in & out of park until I finally got around to replacing the cable.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Humidity in the air can be drawn into the master cylinder. (Water molecules will go wherever the hell they want as long as they can find a path.) Eventually, this helps turn brake fluid corrosive. One thing I always have to test for in brake fluid is copper content and I do that by dipping a special test strip into the reservoir. It’s an indicator that corrosion inhibitors have depleted in the brake fluid. If copper molecules can travel up to the reservoir, water moisture can travel down the fluid into the calipers. Another thing to think about is that the fluid does move through the system. Every time you pump the pedal, you’re creating some kind of flow and/or turbulence in the system. Then as pads wear and caliper pistons adjust position, more of that fluid gradually moves into the caliper bores. One way or the next, your brake fluid is always gradually mixing with something that’s also gradually breaking it down.
In short, get a brake fluid flush done the right way when you need to.
You can isolate it whether the noise is outside or inside the timing cover by taking off the serpentine belt and run the engine for a minute. If the noise is still there after removing the serpentine belt, then you’re more likely to have to remove the timing cover to chase down the failed part.
The alignment dowel pins probably got stuck from corrosion buildup. If you have room to squeeze a pry bar down the sides, do so and work as close to those pins as you can. I think you might have to just trust yourself with a little more aggression and leverage.
Range sensor problems don’t sound like a normal 4R75 fault to me. A good next step is to just see if it’ll start in neutral. Fords are awesome at crapping out starters all over the place. If you have a good scan tool, you could probably find a start request PID somewhere and see if it’s allowing the start or not. That might point out your next direction for you.
I still haven’t come across anything yet requiring locksmith grade anything. I take that back. We did have an 07 Sebring that we had to raise a white flag to once. Most of my key programming is with Ford, Chevy, and the occasional Honda. There has usually been an OE procedure available in a good aftermarket scan tool. I have a couple flavors of Snap On scan tools (Solus and an old MODIS) and the Autel 908 at work. Both have managed to miss where the other hit for programming like this. I think both did fine for Hondas. GM has always been the old 30 minute relearn procedure, so scan tools are irrelevant. Is there a specific make/model you need to focus on?
That scan tool may not have enough in terms of functional tests and procedures. I sometimes have to bounce between a Snap On scanner and an Autel because one is missing a function that the other has. There’s one other option you can look for in absence of an ABS bleed procedure. I used to do my brake flushes and bleeds with a pressure bleeder. I never had to give any regard to an ABS procedure with it. If you can find a pressure bleeder, it’s worth a shot. This is far left field stuff next, but if somebody topped off the brake system with something other than brake fluid, it would mean that there’s other seal damage in the ABS module or all the way out to the caliper piston and wheel cylinder seals. Did you see anything damp or wet at the calipers or wheel cylinders?
It’s a molded rubber gasket so there should have only been two to four small points where you’d have needed to add RTV in the first place. If it’s smoking under the hood as opposed to through the tail pipe, then it’s time to pull the valve cover back off and see if it fell out of the groove as you were installing it. If what you call seepage is shiny and wet off the valve cover and it’s hitting the exhaust manifold, I’d sooner call it a leak and change that valve cover gasket out again. Especially if it’s a FelPro gasket. They tend to expand rather easily once oil does hit them and they don’t fit back into their intended grooves easily anymore. If you didn’t clean mating surfaces off last time, do so this time.
Go back through your work and make sure you tightened all your bolts. Loose brackets and calipers can cause noises. If you had the rotors machined, I’d wonder if whoever machined them failed to follow up with a fine cut and sand them to give the cut a nondirectional finish. If the rotors are cut too coarse, it can cause what’s called a record player effect where the grooves are trying to push the brake pads outward radially and the snapping noise is caused as the pads pull themselves back in.
I’ve tried that a few times with other cars along with this one and it’s never worked for me. I still have friends at the local tech college and they let me use the bleeder keg out of their brake/suspension lab.
Switching to a heavier oil might actually lead to more oil consumption. I’ve been told Toyota and Honda have been experimenting with low tension piston rings to reduce internal friction. My understanding of it is with that low tension, the rings aren’t expanding well enough and they’re actually hydroplaning on the oil hitting the cylinder walls. As a result, more oil is getting past the rings and getting burned in the cylinders. A thicker oil would allow more hydroplaning.