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from what i have seen, bidirectional control, ABS, SRS, etc is something you need to fork over real $$$ for… manufacturers don’t really like handing out that kind of info for free.
I don’t know how to take the steering wheel apart, however, if you are still looking for wiring diagrams, check Autozone and/or Google for free Chiltons online. I had a look at the wiring diagram and it is pretty detailed. Even if you are just replacing the horn switch you’ll want to look at it so you understand what is going on in that circuit.
A bad sway bar end link should cause clunking when you drive over bumps, not vibration.
I agree with moparfan, yes, bad brake parts can cause problems even when you are not actually applying the brakes.
Do the brakes make any vibrations, noises etc when you use them at <100km/h speeds?
Where do you feel the vibration most, thru the steering wheel, in the body of the car, etc?
I too would first look at if there is any air trapped in there, could be an easy fix. Did you bleed the system with the heat on after you did the water pump?
get under the car and grab onto the driver’s end link, shake it around, beat on it some. repeat on the other end link. if the driver’s end link makes a different noise than the passenger’s, i would replace it. usually a pretty easy job. if it doesn’t make noise, that doesn’t mean it’s good for sure, but if you can make it clunk by shaking it, it’s definitely bad.
and if you see cracks in the rubber, that is a good sign that any grease inside is gone or will be gone soon (hence the clunk, metal on metal).
I agree with R-vin, make sure you check your sunroof drains, if the bottom end of one of those gets clogged, it can soak your floor in a hurry.
Hey, I used to drive a 91 Accord. Going by the Chiltons book, yes, the heated O2 is on the ECU fuse, so it’s a plausible fix. Good catch, OP. Looks like there are a TON of sensors and wiring on that one fuse.
Eric talks a little bit about choosing oil in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgtUDTFxOkQ
Looks like he is using Supertech (Walmart) oil and filter.
I personally like the cheap stuff too, but others will likely weigh in with different opinions.
Thanks for the replies guy.
@ Beefy – I agree with the pressure relief valve, that’s a good guess
@ college man – sadly the fuel filter on this car is not external… would need to pull the fuel pump. Even checking fuel pressure is a pain in the ass, as there is no schrader valve.
@ dreamer – I think I have a bottle of Heat laying around somewhere, I’ll throw that in next time I fill it up
@ Eric – thanks for the link, I’ll check that out
Well, hopefully it won’t come to siphoning gas… what a pain.
I did a couple more tests.
1 – Drove the car until it warmed up, parked it and turned it off, removed the gas cap for a few minutes, replaced the gas cap, started the car. Ran fine.
2 – The tank was near full, but I pumped in about a gallon of gas (until the pump clicked off). It then stalled repeatedly whenever I decelerated to a stop. After stalling maybe 6 or 7 times, the problem went away and it ran fine.
I found that the vacuum valve for the fuel tank / carbon canister pressure sensor (under the car near the gas tank) was rusted out and almost cracked in half. Ordered a new one. Maybe that will do it.
I will update this when I find the fix.
Yes, the fuel tank pressure sensor.
These corollas seem to use one pressure sensor for both the fuel tank and the carbon canister. It switches between the two using a three-way solenoid valve controlled by the ECM (this solenoid is the part thats rusted out and cracked). Looks like the way its cracked, the pressure sensor is always seeing atmospheric pressure.
The guys at Autozone told me it was probably the gas cap… seems like the guys at Autozone always say any problem is because of the gas cap or an O2 sensor lol
do you have a fuel pressure gauge? that would be an easy first step to confirm for sure that the pump isn’t doing its job.
also, 1+ to college man. begining with checking the fuse/relay for power and jumping the relay might save you from crawling around under the vehicle.
Before you pull the ECTS, you might want to check it with an ohmmeter. It should read several kOhms cold, down to a few 100’s of ohms (or less) hot. You should be able to unplug the wiring to the sensor to do this test – the sensor doesn’t need power to work.
Chiltons or Haynes should have a chart of temperature versus ohms specific to your Wrangler.
Testing the sensor before you rip it out could save you some time and $$
just my 2 cents