Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Thank you for taking the time to respond, Eric. Unfortunately, none of the diagrams available on their site were for seats. I actually don’t know the exact trim or year Silverado from which the seat came. My best guess is either a ’99–’02 or a ’03–06. Do you know of any websites with quality diagrams? I will take a look at a service manual and wiring supplement, but I am not be able to understand it. :unsure:
Let’s say I was able to get power to the motor but it is defective; how am I going to remove the seat to gain access to the motor if the seat is blocking the rear left mounting bolt? What does one do in this situation? Tear down the seat in pieces?
Thank you for taking the time to respond, Eric. Unfortunately, none of the diagrams available on their site were for seats. I actually don’t know the exact trim or year Silverado from which the seat came. My best guess is either a ’99–’02 or a ’03–06. Do you know of any websites with quality diagrams? I will take a look at a service manual and wiring supplement, but I am not be able to understand it. :unsure:
Let’s say I was able to get power to the motor but it is defective; how am I going to remove the seat to gain access to the motor if the seat is blocking the rear left mounting bolt? What does one do in this situation? Tear down the seat in pieces?
Thank you for your replies, gentlemen! I apologize for not posting it under Tools or general automotive discussion. Maybe a mod can move it. I thought it might fly under service and repair because it was a question regarding general brake work.
That’s the one I wanted to buy from my local Northern Tool but they only had the more expensive Titan brand one in stock. It sure made breaking the crank bolt and lug nuts loose on my ’02 Accord. Well worth the money.
Thank you responding, Eric! I know you are busy with many other things and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to follow up.
I did remove the 6mm bolt in the timing belt tensioner after I installed the timing belt but I had to use it to hold the tensioner in it’s lowest position. Without doing that I couldn’t otherwise get the belt over the cam sprocket. I am really amazed at how easily you pulled the belt over the cam sprocket in the video without having used the bolt to temporarily hold the tenisoner down. All the work I did is pretty much irrelevant now since I took every thing off and let the mobile tech start with the belts and tensioners off. He even said it looks like I had the timing right.
My main question is this: how do you get the timing belt over the cam sprocket if you don’t use the bolt to temporarily hold down the tensioner? When I tried it without the bolt (just like in your video) I could not get the belt over the cam sprocket except for a few ‘ribs’ on the left side, the side closest to the radiator, front balance shaft, etc.(I believe you call that the ‘tension’ side). I am not sure if I am saying this correctly but without the bolt temporarily holding the tensioner it seems that the tensioner is at maximum tension position. Is that correct? Seriously, how can you pull the belt over the entire cam sprocket by hand like in the video? Maybe I just don’t have the finger, wrist or forearm strength you do. W;)Any suggestions would be much appreciated for the next go around, assuming the old Accord makes it to 320,000 miles.
Yes, you did and why you do it that way makes sense. Maybe I was putting the belt on the tension side of the cam sprocket too far which is why I couldn’t get enough slack on the slack (right) side to clear the sprocket. Also, the tensioner wouldn’t stay on the little peg beside the main bolt when I was trying to put the t-belt on. I watched your video again and it looks like you put just a few ribs (or whatever you want to call them) over the tension side and then pulled up on the slack side, although, I can’t tell for sure since you are blocking the camera. W;) Correct me if I’m wrong, but is that how you do it exactly–slide the belt over just a few teeth but not over the entire width on the tension side and then pull like mule to get it over the top of the cam sprocket?
When I was trying to put the t-belt on I didn’t have the balance shaft belt tensioner, belt or the main adjusting/retaining nut on. Just so I’m clear the bolt I was referring to was a bolt from the cover which I inserted through the elliptical opening on the arm of the t-belt tensioner, not the main tensioner retaining/adjusting nut. I surmise that the reason there is a bolt hole behind the t-belt tensioner arm is to insert a bolt through the tensioner arm to temporarily hold the tensioner down (releasing the tension?) to allow easier installation of the t-belt. I read some of the steps in the Helm service manual which is where I got the bolt idea. After struggling to get the bolt through the upper most part of the elliptical hole on the t-belt tensioner it alowed more slack on the slack side to get it up over the cam sprocket. Obviously, one can do it your way, as you demonstrated in the video, but I couldn’t do it.
Thank for the responses, gentleman! I appreciate your time and input. I feel more comfortable now that I have responses from 3 knowledgeable, reputable sources.
Eric, from what I gather from the internet other people have alleged it is and interference engine. Is it and interference engine only when the vtec is active (because the intake valves open longer)? I honestly don’t know and can’t say but I trust you.
I actually bought the video last year around September which is how I got the nerve to attempt the job myself and, yes, I agree with you, it is a small price to pay and more than fair. I figure $11 is worth a look at what I could possibly getting myself into. It took me a good while before I could actually do the work because I need time to acquire some special tools, ie crank pulley holder, engine seal installers, 6 ft steel pipe and a 40inch, 3/4 drive breaker bar (to make sure I could brake the crank bolt loose). I must have watched your video at least 10 times before I felt comfortable attempting this serious job.
From your video I learned that the engine rotates counter-clockwise. When I wrote “rotate the engine backwards” I was referring to rotating just the crank (with timing belt off) clockwise to get the timing marks to line since the mark on the pulley was slightly past (to the left of the pulley when facing the crank) the mark on the the cover. I decided not to go backwards, clockwise, and instead go in the direct of normal rotation, counter-clockwise, to re-align the marks. I thought by going around counter-clockwise I might hit a valve and I didn’t want rotate the crank backwards, clockwise, because of some unknown potential damage. That’s when I figured I would just rotate the engine normally, counter-clockwise a near full turn instead of rotating it a few degrees backwards, clockwise.
You video was very detailed and you gave great instructions and was worth the $11. My engine mount was a different set up than the 5th generation Accord but that was relatively minor. The biggest hurdle I actually faced was the putting on the timing belt. Your video didn’t actually show–you went to an above shot and the tensioner was already on there but in the previous lower shot it wasn’t–how you got the spring onto the bolt with the tensioner on both pegs. I had to go about it differently. I had a heck of a time pulling down on the tensioner while installing a 6mm cover bolt to hold the tensioner in its lowest setting. Only then was I able to get the timing belt around the cam gear. I did take the bolt out after getting the belt all they way on. Also, I believe during one of the many previous attempts to get the t-belt over the cam sprocket is when I somehow pulled the lower crank out of time. This bring me to one last question: do you pull the timing belt over the cam sprocket starting on the slack side (firewall) and then over the opposite side which is inverse of what you state in the video? From what you stated, if I’m correct, you said work from the tension side to the slack side. The video shows you pulling the t-belt over the left side of the cam sprocket first which I was unable to do without moving the tensioner to its lowest position. The tech I had finish the job said he put the belt on the right (slack side) the cam sprocket first and rotated the crank to get it on. In your video you don’t have to go through that trouble.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
If you suspect bent valves, doing a cylinder leakage test will confirm that hypothesis.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfu
After replacing timing belts or timing chains, its always a good practice to manually rotate the crank shaft by hand 2 revolutions to make sure all the timing marks line up.
For the rubbing sound you hear, i would do a good visual inspection of the area. However, it sounds like it may be out of time.
Thank you for the quick reply dreamer. I watched that video a while back and thought it was highly informative; however, I don’t have a compressor.
I did check the lug nuts, accessory belts, timing covers, and looked for debris trapped around the wheel and didn’t see anything.
Is there a way to tell which valves are open on which cylinder with the cam gear set to #1 TDC? If the firing order is 1,3,4,2, then it is possible to deduce which valves are opening, closing and which are closed and open, yes?
Yes, that makes sense regarding the compression tester hose (just remove the gauge, yes?). The reason I am asking about the valves is because I want to find out if any were open when I rotated the crank without the timing belt on–cam gear still placed at #1 TDC. I thought that might help me figure out if any valves were open (and open enough) to contact the piston when I rotated the crank.
I was able to turn it by hand without extreme force. I’m guessing if a valve was open then I would have encountered significant resistance, yes? Is it possible or likely that if rotating the crank by hand and a piston contacted and open valve, with the timing belt off, would the valve be able to move the rocker arm or cam in the opposite rotation of normal engine rotation?
Thank you very much for the reply, Garys10! Looking at my original post, I did not include enough detail and was specific enough. I am actually referring to a 2.3L on a 2002 Accord. The balance shaft I was referring to was actually the front balance shaft. Is the procedure for keeping it from rotating the same as the rear balance shaft?
To be honest, I have no intention of using the starter to break loose the crank bolt once I get around to doing that job. However, the method does seem logical but probably not the preferred method of removal. I would be reluctant to try it due to the possibility of damaging the starter, flywheel or something else. The crank pulley holder will be the method I use and I don’t mind spending the money. If that fails for whatever reason, I have Eric’s clever method from the video to fall back on.
A torque multiplier seems like a pretty useful tool. Others on Honda’s sites have speculated that it takes, perhaps, as much as 600 flbs of torque to break it loose. When I was searching Northern Tool stumbled on one and read some of the reviews but I wanted to know if any of the DIYers or professional technicians ever used one. I suppose the price of one is cost prohibitive especially when one compares using a 1/2 breaker bar with a cheater pipe.