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Propane or MAP gas should work well enough.
Also might be wise to check the operation on each wheel and check the slide pins on all.Question: It is safe to used 400/600 grit sand paper to remove that surface rust on the edge of the rotor???
I see no real issue in cleaning up the rust.
Considering your description of the brake fluid …
Suggest first attempting to open all four bleeders.
If you can, do a gravity bleed on all four wheels while keeping the fluid level full in the master until you get clean fluid from all four wheels.First try resetting the ECU and let it relearn the fuel mapping.
Next would be to check the flow rate of the injectors.I wouldn’t suggest using compressed air and back blowing any passages.
You have deposit build up with in the engine.
That needs to be cleared out.
My suggestion would be to get some inexpensive oil and a couple of cheap oil filters and some Marvel Mystery Oil
Do a oil and filter change adding the recommended amount of MMO drive around for a day then drain and repeat until you see the the deposits stop showing up.With out knowing and seeing what the condition of the vehicle or what and how the work was done I can only offer some suggestions
First question..
What is the year and mileage of the vehicle?
When was the last time the brake fluid was changed?
If it has been more than several years… suggest a fluid flush of the entire system.
As to the flexible brake hoses… how old are they?
There may be internal issues, might all look good externally but internally is another story.
What condition are the rotors in? Just surface rust is rarely an issue and clears up very quickly
I assume you removed the calipers when doing the ball joints.
Possible you may have dislodged some debris inside the caliper(s) which may be hanging them up.
Did you clean and re-grease the slide pins?
Make sure the pads move freely on the bracket?
Make sure the pad surfaces are not glazed or cracked.There really shouldn’t be any reason that doing ball joints should affect the brakes unless the brakes had a border line issue.
In which case you’ll need to start looking specifically at the brakes and perhaps doing a full service on them.That’s the inner fender liner.
As long as you avoid rocks and pebbles you should be fine.
The liner protects from debris being kicked up from the tire and hitting the actual inner metal of the fender and any components that may be attached to it.Fuel trims seem a bit high.
Have you checked for vacuum leak(s)?
Might also check flow rates on the fuel injectors.Can you identify which part it is from this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-OEM-Fender-Liner-Splash-Shield-Screw-0145100841-/253337600809Could be due to low oil pressure.
But if that is valve train noise, that the first time it sounds that low in frequency to me.
When was the last time the valve train adjusted?Keep in mind high power connection(s) if loose can arc together but can brake open again once power is removed.
You could remove the box and disassemble it to look for corrosion or cracked solder joint(s) pr perhaps loose crimps on the wiring or signs of burnt traces on the PCB.
But if the trouble is with the electronics ( faulty processor or the likes ) that becomes much more involved and requires specific tooling and skill set.If as you state the car loses ALL power I would star looking at the main feed(s) and ground(s) and work back towards the power distribution center.
Could be a loose or faulty connection somewhere along there or as your friend says it could be the Smart Junction Box starting to fail.First thing.. check that the fuse is good.
I assume the light turn on when set on manually.
If the sensor needs replacing, I believe the upper trim panel that houses the sensor is removable using a panel tool to allow access.