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My suggestion:
First buy 2, if one failed, Murphy’s law shows at least one other will also fail.
As to brand…
You got 17 years from the factory equipment.
Need I say more?Who still turns rotors these days?
For the most part it’s usually cheaper to get a new set of replacements.Lets start with eliminating the possibilities:
Do a compression test.
Do a leak down test.
These will tell you if everything is sealed up correctly
Then check all the fluids to see if oil is making its way someplace it shouldn’t be.If all those check out good and as you claim there is no oil burning, you have a leak.
Most likely when there is oil pressure in the engine.Brake fluid under gravity feed won’t pour out.
It is usually a slow process.
This “farting” noise you mention…
Not quite sure what your hearing, my guess is brake pad chatter.
I would suggest removing the caliper brackets remove the brake hardware clean off any rust build up from under the brake hardware and reassemble.
This will give you the general basics of what should be done.Just spit balling here.
That broken part appears to be an alignment pin Used to align the door to the B pillar when closing.
That needs to be replaced.
If you look closely, the lower striker pin that seats into the B pillar is what mechanically latches the door.
Suggest you try cleaning and lubricating the striker and catch inside the B pillar.
Also, I believe that bulk connector on the door needs to make clean contact with its mate on the B pillar.
Make sure contacts on both halves are clean and repair the protective boot.You could just have a look at the area(s) in question.
If the corrosion is that severe you’ll see it for yourself before going to the dealer.5 Common Symptoms of a Bad Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid
1 – Check Engine Light.
2 – Rough Idling.
3 – Rough Acceleration.
4 – Increased Fuel Consumption.
5 – Low engine performance.
Suggest you check your fuel trims if they are excessively negative, you have a rich fuel mixture ( #4 ) that may affect O2 sensor operationTiming is both mechanical and electrical.
All mechanical timing is set ( as far as I know) with #1 cylinder @ TDC.
This can be done with a pressure gauge or by removing the #1 spark plug and inserting a long screw driver or something similar down the spark plug hole.
Barring the engine over until your into the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder and watch for the tool or pressure gauge to reach its highest point.
MAKE SURE your on the compression stroke or the mechanical timing will be 180 degrees out.
That will be TDC.
Now go and check all the alignment marks.
Once everything is aligned and tighten in place it should not change.And does it matter if timing is 1 degree off?
There is usually a range in which the engine runs sometimes + / – a few degrees each engine varies so one may run well at say 8 degrees BTDC where another may run well at 10 degrees or perhaps 6 degrees.
Hence the word tuning.Sorry, but Hondas are not my long suit so I can’t say for certain where the oil passages paths actually run.
My guess is either off the main crank or cam.
An oil pump only produces volume not pressure, Oil pressure is created by a fluid flow restriction in the outlet line of the pump, not by the pump itself.Under normal conditions a transmission replacement would have no direct connection to a steering wheel clock spring.
It may have failed due to unusual vibrations when on the vehicle tow dolly, it may have failed due to age / normal wear and tear.
Chances are there is an open in the clock spring, but pinpointing the exact cause would be difficult.