[Richard Kirshy]

My Nissan is the same .. the water pump is located behind the timing belt.
Hopefully it is only a fitment issue.
Yep it does suck to have to dig all the way back in.

[Richard Kirshy]

I assume the wheel that is over heating is the same one you stated did seem to fit properly.
Possibilities:
Seized caliper
Binding brake pads
Caliper hardware installed improperly
Rust jacking ( did you clean the caliper brackets of rust prior to reassembly?)
Sticking caliper slide pin(s)
Faulty brake hose
I would suggest redoing that wheels brake assembly and find out exactly why it didn’t fit together as it should.

[Richard Kirshy]

Ahh the wonderful Long Island Expressway….
With out doing a inspection on any possible damage.
Providing you had both tires spun balance, that would eliminate a bent wheel.
Other possible causes:
Bent dust shield
Damaged wheel bearing
Damaged brake pad(s)
Damaged rotor or caliper
Damaged shock or strut
Damaged ABS sensor (if so equipped)

I would suggest jacking up the offending tire and see if you can replicate the noise by spinning the tire by hand and try to pin point the source.

[Richard Kirshy]

Well if you removed the main drive belt and all the accessories were not spinning.
That leaves the timing belt or the tensioner.
Could be the belt needs to seat in, though it shouldn’t take long for that.
Might also be the belt is too tight or there might be an issue with the tensioner.
Another possibility, the timing belt just may not be the correct fit your your vehicle.
Not uncommon for after market parts not fitting as well as OEM parts

• This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Richard Kirshy.

[Richard Kirshy]

My first question would be …
Is there a specific procedure required to properly fill your specific transmission?
Many now days require specialize equipment and specific variables to be met to get the proper fluid level.

[Richard Kirshy]

JMHO…..
That doesn’t sound like belt hum.
That is usually consistent hum or buzz.
As far as I can tell from the audio on the video, it sounds more like chatter due to a failing bearing somewhere.

[Richard Kirshy]

Have you done a smoke test yet?

[Richard Kirshy]

My suggestion would be to smoke test the engine and see if there are any vacuum leaks.
If the smoke test doesn’t show any leaks.
You could have a bad MAF sensor ( if so equipped ) that is miss reading.
Issue with the replacement fuel injectors.

[Richard Kirshy]

1. Fuel Gauge Sender Failure

More commonly known as a fuel sending unit, the component is what sends the fuel level signal to your dashboard indicator. While you are operating your vehicle, the sending unit is constantly in motion. This activity means it is rubbing against the variable resistor. The more you drive your vehicle, the move likely this friction will lead to an open or shorted circuit. When an open circuit occurs, the gas gauge may interpret the change in voltage from the failed sending unit as either full or empty. This is the most common reason why your gas gauge is reading wrong.
2. Circuit Problems

Circuit Problems – The gas gauge circuit is wiring that connects the gas gauge, sending unit, the battery, and a ground. The provides the power from the car to operate the electrical components of the vehicle. Because the gas gauge runs through this circuitry, if there is a problem such as a loose connection or corrosion within the circuit, this can cause an error with the gas gauge reading. If you feel comfortable under the hood, go ahead and check for loose or dirty wiring. Sometimes it’s the smallest thing causing a seemingly big problem. To learn more about circuitry, check out how car electrical systems work.
3. Fuel Gauge Is Faulty

Fuel Gauge is Faulty – This is less likely than the previous two issues. The gas gauge is the visual indicator between the fuel tank and the sending unit. In other words, it’s what you read inside the cabin of your vehicle telling you how much fuel you have. Typically, if there is an issue with the fuel gauge, there is a problem with receiving input from the sender. This could be from a bad ground or once again related to the circuitry. A proper diagnosis can help determine if this is the issue.
4. Instrument Cluster Failure

Instrument Cluster Failure – Instrument cluster is the industry’s way to essentially say dashboard indicators. This includes your fuel gauge, speedometer and so forth. With some luck, this will not be the issue. While it is the least likely cause your fuel gauge is reading incorrectly, it is the most expensive reason. Most newer vehicles have a fully-integrated instrument cluster meaning if one indicator has an issue, the whole unit needs to be replaced to fix the problem. Make sure to check out any warranties associated with your vehicle if this seems to be the problem.

[Richard Kirshy]

Perhaps something to do with the gas tank or fuel delivery?

[Richard Kirshy]

Typically logic probes are used to test digital circuits like those using TTL or CMOS logic.
Not designed to test current draw.
You’ll be better off using a DVOM setup to read current or using a known valued test light.

[Richard Kirshy]

Genuine Ford 4M5Z-12029-B Ignition Coil Assembly $42.95

[Richard Kirshy]

First check for any leaks.
Pressure test the system.
Leak down test each cylinder
Check cooling system for combustion gas
Back flush the heater core
Flush the cooling system
Check the operation of the cooling fan
Check for debris blocking the radiator
If needed vacuum fill the cooling system

[Richard Kirshy]

The battery light is on , but what is the charging system doing?
Also what is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running?

[Richard Kirshy]

You can google operation of the EGR valve and methods of testing.
Also check youtube for any videos concerning operation, testing and service

[Author]

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