[Richard Kirshy]

My suggestion(s) would be:
Go back and check that all connectors are clean, tight and fully seated and in their proper locations
Next check that all vacuum line are properly attached in their correct locations.
Then start looking for any possible vacuum leaks starting at the intake snorkel forward to all vacuum hoses.

[Richard Kirshy]

First thing you might look at:
Does the vehicle have an after market alarm system or after market radio?
Both have been known to cause current draw when faulty?

Are there any electrical accessories that have been added to the vehicle?
Do you see any wiring that does not look like factory?
Other possible causes:
A partially shorted starter or alternator

[Richard Kirshy]

Never empty the master.
Top it off then fully depress the brake pedal and secure it in that position.
Most master cylinders will not bleed out fluid if the pedal is in the depressed position.

[Richard Kirshy]

Whoa.. wait a second.
The tires on the front were worn very unevenly where the outsides were heavily worn while the middle and inside still had decent tread. I replaced those with no change in the road noise.

I took it to a local shop to get the alighnment checked. According to them, the alighnent in the back right wheel was a little off whereas the front there were worn tires and where it seemed like the noise was coming from was OK.

However, they did tell me that the front left strut was shot and recommend to replacing both up front struts. While they said that might explain the unevenly worn tires, they really couldn’t explain the noise.

I would be looking for a new alignment shop personally.

As to the humming…
I assume it changes pitch according to speed, if so.
First thing would be to get the frontend mechanics repaired and get a proper alignment.
If the humming continues …
Your dealing with a rotational issue.
Have to start looking at all things that spin.
Brake rotors / caliper
Wheel mounting .. free of rust and wheels fully seated, torqued and sitting flush.
CV shafts
Motor and transmission mounts
Might also look at the exhaust system for loose components and heat shields.
And just on the outside possibility, check for any loose exterior trim pieces that might produce wind noise or buzz

• This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Richard Kirshy.

[Richard Kirshy]

Your struts are leaking.
As to if it pays to repair your present vehicle or look for another…
Only you can decide that.
Things you may want to consider…
Overall condition of your vehicle.
Your budget.

[Richard Kirshy]

Not for nothing.
45 years working on cars.. when a starter is engaged it means the bendix has pushed the starter gear forward to engage the flywheel.

I assume you were driving the vehicle when you loss steering which means the engine was already running.
If what this dealer rep is trying to tell you is that the starter shorted, reengaged with the flywheel after the engine was already running, you would know it because the two gears would not mesh and make the most god awful noise you will every hear.

[Richard Kirshy]

Trust me, one sniff would tell you if it was electrical or if it was rubber burning even after the fact.
I have seen starters fail due to oil leaking on them.
Doesn’t happen right away usually over the course of months or a couple of years, all depends on how large of a leak.
Also most times it is due to valve cover gaskets leaking.

I spoke with an experienced mechanic I know and he sternly said, “a new, properly inspected/installed/tested belt without defects would NEVER snap as a result of a short in the starter or anything locking up”.
As I said don’t know your specific vehicle.
I’ve never seen it myself, but that’s not to say some vehicles may have unique setups.
If I had to guess either they installed the wrong belt or over tensioned it.

I did not hear any noise prior to losing steering. I will search service info (any suggestions of sources)?
This is in contradiction to what you were told.
In almost all cases having a belt slide over a seized pulley, it will scream quite loud.
Much like when you hear a car screaming when first started with a loose belt.
As to service info…. Might try googling a factory service manual.
You might get lucky and find it free on line.

[Richard Kirshy]

Ok.. let take this apart and break it down…
Can an oil leak cause a starter to fail ? Yes.
You state there was smoke.
Was it from the starter shorting out or the belt?
In many cases if oil causes the death of a starter it usually just fails to crank the engine over.
I suppose there are rare cases in which the starter can short and cause smoke and possible fire.
What I do have an issue with is: “oil cooler leak they warned me about is right above the starter and therefore shorted it out, causing the pully system to lock up and snap the belt.”
I’m not that familiar with your specific vehicle but, how exactly is the starter shorting out connected to the drive belt pulleys?
And how would it lock them up to cause the belt to snap.
Item:
Did you hear any high pitched squealing prior to losing steering?
That would show either the belt slipping or a locked up pulley.
Personally I would dig a bit deeper into this.
I would find out from service info if the starter is some how connected to the pulley system.
If you find it is not, print out the documentation to prove it and then go back and question the shop.

[Richard Kirshy]

In all honesty…
Couldn’t hurt anything.
A fluid flush is good maintenance every several years.
Also rear self adjusters have a nasty habit of seizing up.

[Richard Kirshy]

When or if was it done last?
Break down the numbers … your looking at a vehicle that averages ~ 6240 miles a year
As to:” Would it be worth it on a car this old? ”
That all depends on a few things ….
What condition is the vehicle in?
How long do you plan on driving it?
Your budget?
Comparative cost for another vehicle?

[Richard Kirshy]

Not usually.
But even a cracked or split vacuum hose may cause a lean condition.

[Richard Kirshy]

This is showing some issue with the transmission.
See if this is of any help:
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/honda-accord-1992-honda-accord-d4-light-stays-on

[Richard Kirshy]

Just for giggles…
have you checked the intake boot for any signs of splitting or cracks.
Also that the clamps are tight.
One thing you might try is using a propane torch (without the flame)
With the engine running and monitoring the fuel trims go around the engine where any possible leak can occur with the propane.
If done correctly and there is a vacuum leak on the intake side of the engine the propane will introduce more fuel into the engine thus lowering your fuel trims while your watching.
A good test but not 100% accurate.
Another is to spray water around the intake area and listen for the engine to stumble.

[Richard Kirshy]

Possible causes:
Faulty spark plug / coil / wire
Faulty fuel pressure
Faulty fuel pressure regulator
Dirty / faulty injector
Check for clogged / faulty PCV valve

[Richard Kirshy]

AFAIK… TTY bolts are a one time use item due to the fact they stretch when the proper torque is applied.
If in your application they are TTY I would check if their claim is true, if not, replace them.

[Author]

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