[Richard Kirshy]

You may have a faulty master cylinder

[Richard Kirshy]

Couldn’t say for certain if the codes you listed are a direct response to the issue or not.
But judging from what your describing it sounds like you may have either a faulty ignition switch or relay

[Richard Kirshy]

Before anything…
Go through and check all fuses and fusable links.
Check the wiring to and from the connections you jumpered from one end to the other for any possible shorts or opens.
Is it possible you fried the ECU… possibly.
If the control side was hooked to 12V power or grounded you may have damaged the ECU.

[Richard Kirshy]

Sounds like a timing issue and considering you did tinker with it, I would suggest going back and triple checking what you did.

[Richard Kirshy]

Are you looking for internal or external?

[Richard Kirshy]

My guess is that you pulled on the CV axle with excessive force.
IMHO, I would replace it. No telling what kind of damage it has and it will need to be completely removed in any case to even attempt to inspect it fully.
Why risk it and have to do the work twice.
I would also suggest you go back and properly tighten all the hardware correctly before test driving it again.

[Richard Kirshy]

First thing I assume your talking about one of the engine mounts.
If you research on youtube about the use of rivnuts and how they function you’ll understand.
As to cutting up the frame…
Of course you can cut or drill it.
But you also should restore its original structural integrity for safety reasons.
There are a million ways to do something wrong, but very few (or one) to do it correctly.

[Richard Kirshy]

I wouldn’t suggest using rivnuts, pretty sure they would hold up in that application.
I might suggest making a patch plate with a hole drilled in it and with the correct size nut welded to it.
Using a angle grinder or torch (which ever works best) Using the patch panel as a template.
Mark the area, cut it out and weld the patch panel into its place.

[Richard Kirshy]

Unusual for a new vehicle to have such issues…
Possible causes:
Faulty brake hoses
Faulty calipers
Faulty master cylinder / proportioning valve
Driver riding the brake peddle.

[Richard Kirshy]

Considering when it works you get cols air.
Safe bet that the system itself has no issues.
Judging from your description …
You can skip replacing fuses, they either work or don’t.
Being the system sometimes works, even money that all the fuses are good.
The relay may be a different story, but that is easy to remove and test without having to get a replacement right away.
My money is on a faulty climate control module..
You might try hooking up a scan tool and see if there are any codes associated with it.

[Richard Kirshy]

Could be a loose connection, faulty relay, premature failure of the replacement starter, faulty ignition switch.

[Richard Kirshy]

My guess:
It is for the purpose of testing your radiator cap.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by Richard Kirshy.

[Richard Kirshy]

If you drive the vehicle up onto the ramps slowly you should have no issues.
Remember you’ll still need to get a front end alignment when completed.

[Richard Kirshy]

Both pins should be fully seated in their holes.
My suggestion:
Remove the pins, clean both the pins and the pin guide holes completely.
Apply a thin coating of brake grease to each pin.
reinstall and air burp the pin boot.

[Richard Kirshy]

If it is fuel leaking it could be washing off undercoating from you vehicle or the ground under your car was already oil stained or dirty.

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