[Richard Kirshy]

Yes, you can clear the codes by using a scan tool.
I always do a full reset ( MAF and ECU ) twice a year once in winter and then for summer.
Start and warm up the car, then go for a nice drive
The learning procedure is best done by a continuous drive at varying speeds for 20 – 25 miles.
This allows the computer time to relearn and remap the mixture ratios.

[Richard Kirshy]

There appears to be a guide washer or flange in front of the timing belt.
I have to assume that this is in place to prevent the timing belt from “walking” off the gears.
Look at the second video at 10:45 where it shows the belt held in place by the flange or washer.

Have you perhaps not installed this guide washer prior to hand turning the motor?
Or have it mounted backwards where the flange is behind the timing belt?

Attachments:

• Capture1.png

[Richard Kirshy]

Might suggest ..
1) Clean the MAF sensor with the proper solvent
2) Clean the throttle body, with the proper cleaner
3) Reset the Mixture Ratio Self – Learning Control
Following the steps below …
A ) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
B ) Turn ignition switch OFF.
C ) Disconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector, and restart and run engine for at least 3 seconds at idle speed.
D ) Stop engine and reconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector.
E ) Make sure Detected Trouble Code (DTC) P0102 is displayed.
F ) Erase the DTC memory. (This could be done by disconnecting the car battery for 12 – 24 hours or with a scanner)
G ) Make sure no codes are stored in the ECM.
H ) Run engine for at least 10 minutes at idle speed. If you disconnect the battery in step 4 below, you may omit this step H

4) Disconnect your negative battery terminal for 12 – 24 hours
5) After reconnecting the battery ..
A ) Start the engine and allow it to come to operating temp.
B ) Drive the vehicle ( highway driving ) for at least 25 miles in order for the ECU to relearn.

[Richard Kirshy]

I would suggest trying to adjust the factory clutch safety switch for proper operation.
Or perhaps replacing it if it proves to be faulty.
Just a thought here..
If the manufacturer decided not to install a more accessible switch, why would you believe it to be a better idea?

[Richard Kirshy]

If I understand you correctly …
You want to attempt to lift the side of your vehicle at the mid point ( I assume with a floor jack ) and support it at the jack point with jack stands.

1) Supporting the vehicle at the jacking points will work, they are designed to support the weight load.

2) Jacking the side of the car at the mid point of the rocker panel…..
Unless you want to bend the uni-body structure of your car DON”T DO IT

[Richard Kirshy]

I suggest your refer to your owners manual or manufacturers specs.

Some vehicles have extended ranges between changes.
But on average, 3 months or 3 – 5000 miles is, IMO, a good average for most common vehicles under ” normal ” driving conditions.

FYI, I own a vehicle than I only manage ~ 500 – 700 miles a year.
I still do oil and filter changes every 3 months regardless.

[Richard Kirshy]

Depending on manufacturers specs..
Oil becomes contaminated, with low mileage usage, like in your situation, water from condensation will develop with in the engine.
If you drive limited miles the engine does not have the time to ” dry out ” the oil.
So it becomes even more critical to maintain the oil and filter in your car.

[Richard Kirshy]

Forgive if I’m wrong …
But it sounds like the gentleman wishes to install / mount a camera.
Not repair / fix one
Whether it is to record the side view rear looking POV or something else I can’t say.

[Richard Kirshy]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=155216]all i see is a screenshot of the video.[/quote]
Have to wait till the rain lightens up to record a video of the start up.
The screen shot was just to show the condition of the internals of the motor.
My bad for the confusion.

[Richard Kirshy]

Vehicle is a 2002 Nissan Xterra owned from new.
3.3L N/A 4X4 85,500 miles.
4speed automatic.
Only major changes to it.
Replaced the factory 80A alternator with a Nissan Quest 125A alternator and belt.
Installed dual batteries.
Installed external transmission cooler.
K/N air intake.
Knock sensor relocated to the top of the motor.

Engine and vehicle has been well maintained and serviced.

Timing belt, tensioner and follower.
Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
Fuel injector seals
Water pump.
Radiator, hoses and belts.
Rotors, calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses and pads.
All fluids have been replaced.
Oil is changed every 3 months.

Only operating issue is ..
Every 4 – 6 weeks I’ll get an error code P0442 or P0456 small evap leak detected, but gives no CEL, which I am guessing is the gas cap.
I greased the seal and it went without tripping a code until I went to fill up about a month later.

Other than that it starts and runs excellent.
Getting 20+ mpg around town.

I’ll get a video done as soon as the weather permits, but don’t know how well it will show case the audio.

Attachments:

• engine.png

[Richard Kirshy]

Well it’s been a couple of weeks now ….
With a few miles clicked off between hoping around town and some highway trips.
MPG has settled in at 21.2 up from 17.8 originally.
The efforts, in my opinion were well worth it in the end 🙂

[Richard Kirshy]

No worries ….

BTW just watched your repair on the frame stiffeners ….
Nice Megyver B)
FYI concerning the welding issues you were experiencing…
Considering the thickness of the extensions you installed compared to the thickness of the frame rails and the metal thickness of the cars mounting points you attached to.
You need to apply more heat to the thicker material in order to have the weld penetrate correctly and less heat to the thinner areas to avoid burn through and still get good penetration.
Basically work the weld puddle on the thickest material and work it towards the thinner material.

[Richard Kirshy]

Quick update …
After installing the new O2 sensor and checking the fuel trims.
I noticed 2 thing, perhaps I was being a little over cautious.
But, first thing I would swear that I was hearing a vacuum leak ( Yes, I know what a vacuum leak sounds like) coming from the front of bank one.
I proceeded to use propane over everything that could possible causing a vacuum leak with no effect to the engine then went and sprayed it down with water and soap.
Still no change in engine rpm.
Now here is where it gets a bit odd.
Took a transmission funnel ( wide end down ) and went listening for the leak…
Now to my surprise I locate the sound it at the power steering pump.
Checked the fluid level, color and flow, no issues there.
Steering is functioning fine at both idle and driving.
Removed the belt and checked the pulley and bearing and belt nothing wrong anywhere.
So I came to the conclusion the noise is the fluid itself that is being pumped through the system.
I plan on keeping an eye on it but so far so good.

Now the second thing…
I noticed (again probably being over cautious..) What I deemed as a slight miss at idle.
Pulled the plugs, cap and wires to check, all good there.
Went and checked the timing… with an occasional jump off the mark it was in spec.
Looked at the fuel trims and they still didn’t quite seem right.

Now for some odd reason it occurred to me that perhaps something was off with the timing.
So I proceeded to dig in and get to the timing belt.
Now for those who are not familiar with the 2002 Nissan 3.3L V6, they were kind enough to omit the timing mark on the block for the main crank.
So made up a piston stop, and mechanically check for TDC on the harmonic balancer.
Once confirmed, filed a mark on the block to match the timing belt gear on the crank.
Now here is where it get odd…
Bank one cam mark is spot on, bank 2 cam mark is off by almost a tooth and 1/2 :huh:
Crank mark is where it should be.
Ok, so pull the tensioner, line up the cams to their marks, tie wrap the timing belt in place on the cams, and roue the belt to the crank.
Now all 3 timing marks are perfectly aligned, checked ,rechecked and tripled checked and for good measure had my brother confirm them.

Put the whole beast back together, turn the key, start it up and it runs like garbage.
live data is all over the place, error codes for miss fires it was a mess. :pinch:

So now I tear it all down a second time, re check TDC, and all the timing marks.. everything is where it should be.
Now I remember, there is an alternate way to install the timing belt.
You set bank one cam on its mark, set the belt on… now count 40 belt teeth to the bank 2 cam.
Did that and notice that the bank 2 cam is past the actual mark by almost a tooth.
Now from there you count 43 belt teeth to the crank shaft timing mark.
Did that and the crank lines up perfectly.

Here we go again… reassemble the engine the second time.
Turn the key, starts perfectly :silly:
Let it warm up, setup the timing… now its sitting rock solid on its mark.

End results,
Fuel trims (both short and long) are actually looking normal.
I have since rebooted both the ECM and the OBDII blue tooth adapter to get a clean reading off the engine.

As of the today
Prior to all this, around town MPG was solid at 17.8
Now it has climbed ( quite quickly) to 18.0 and judging at the rate it is climbing I think it will go a bit higher before it levels out.

Thanks for the advise and guidance !!!

[Richard Kirshy]

Thank you both gentlemen,
A quick update…
Bank1 upstream O2 sensor took a powder earlier today, installed a OEM replacement. (wonder if that may have been the root cause?)
And as luck would have it my TORQUES adapter decided to stop working.
Will be ordering a new adapter next week and recheck the trims then.

BTW Eric,
Excellent videos, keep up the good work!!!!
Xterra 3.3 l engine is a standard mount

I also installed hood louvers years ago to help avoid heat issues just in case B)

Attachments:

• nissan-xterra-engine-2.jpg
• nissan-xterra-engine-2_2015-06-19.jpg

[Richard Kirshy]

I’m by no means an expert on your car …..
But might suggest a method my father used back in the day… He was a mechanic for several manufactures back then.

In the 60’s and 70’s the way they would de-sludge an engine.
Step 1
A) Disconnect the battery
B) Drain the engine oil
C) Mix 3 quarts kerosene and 2 quarts(cheap)oil
D) Pour directly into the crank case via the dipstick tube
E) Let sit for 30 – 60 minutes depending on the amount of sludge present
F) Shake the car repeatedly for a few minute to allow the mixture to wash down the crankcase and oil pump pick up tube

Step 2
A) Drain crankcase
B) R/R oil filter with inexpensive one
C) Mix 2 quarts kerosene and 3 quarts(cheap)oil
D) Fill crankcase as normal
E) Disconnect ignition and fuel delivery
F) Connect battery
G) Crank engine several times to circulate the crankcase mixture
H) Check dipstick to see condition of cleaning mixture.
I) Once satisfied Drain crankcase and remove Oil filter
J) Leave drain plug out, open oil fill tube, pull dipstick and allow to vent for ~30 minutes
You can also use an air compressor to pump air into the crankcase

Step 3
A) Reinstall drain plug and install new (cheap) oil filter
B) Reconnect ignition and fuel
C) Fill crankcase with required amount of (cheap) oil
D) Start and drive car for a day
E) Drain and refill oil and replace oil filter of your choice

I know some may question this old school method, but I’ve seen it done many times

[Author]

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