Forum Replies Created
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Quoted From dreamer2355:_x000D_
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Awesome job!_x000D_
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As for the gage, i am not familiar with tool companies in your area so i cant recommend anything, sorry 🙁_x000D_
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Thanks!_x000D_
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I usually import everything so it doesn’t matter if it’s overseas._x000D_Victory! 😀 [url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktZGXmW4dJo:3i733kbm]_x000D_
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First start_x000D_
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktZGXmW4dJo_x000D_
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M[/url]easuring compression :O_x000D_
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jd7nTGjcp5o:3i733kbm]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jd7nTGjcp5o_x000D_
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S[/url]These are some pictures to show how much do valves lift when the bigger camshaft lobes are used_x000D_
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Exhaust valves,_x000D_
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Low rpm lobes,_x000D_
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High rpm lobes,_x000D_
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Intake valves,_x000D_And these is some additional things I’m using on this setup,_x000D_
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Apexi S-AFC 2_x000D_
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This allows corrections to the AFR under a certain throttle load and RPM range. It also monitors detonation, max RPMs, etc._x000D_
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WidebaQuoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Wow that sounds expensive but at least you found the issue, thanks for keeping us up to date and for all of the great pics you posted.
You mean the guy falling off the speaker set right? hahahaha LOL
Jokes aside, I’ve learned a lot from these mistakes and we’ve made all the corrections so the engine now runs more reliable with the modifications that I’ve made to it.
Today we took the block to do the machining and the cylinder head is ready. We’re doing the engine (hopefully tomorrow) build outside the car because there is just too little space so work there, so I hope I can take lots of pictures of the process and share with the ETCG community.
Stay tuned (and dirty!)
Update: Some (not so good) news
The oil consumption and higher compression was due to the valves slightly touching the pistons, getting bent and therefore not sealing properly. The higher compression in my opinion was due to the oil that was being poured inside the cylinder.
Me and some friends went on a track day and after some intense use the engine started to do a pinging noise, my first thought was “I blew it”.
And I was right, this is how I felt
LOL
But oh well. After taking it to the shop, we opened it up and this is what we first found,
What you can see in the pictures is that the valve relief that we did to the piston was not enough and the valves dug some material on the sides of the reliefs (not sure if my explanation is grammatically correct).
Then we took the valves off the cylinder head and confirmed our theory, we had 4 intake and 1 exhaust valves bent.
But then there was that pinging noise. That was the last surprise, piston was touching the lower part of cylinder 2 and did some very ugly damage. So we can’t avoid overboring the engine.
The thing is that to avoid my previous clearance issues I bought standard SR16VE pistons (pictured bellow) because I tough we wouldn’t need re-boring the engine. So my mechanic said we could machine the engine then do a cylinder skirting process (not sure what’s the precise term in english) to go back to standard bore (86mm).
So far, I got new valves, new pistons, new rings, new gaskets, new valve seals, new rod bearings and today they are doing the cylinder machining and putting the new valves in my (cylinder) head. LOL
And that’s it, back to studios! hahahah
Quoted From hbvx:
Woah, thanks for the update. Hopefully the process gets you a solid engine afterward.
Any thoughts regarding oil to use after the job is done?
That’s a good point actually, I’ve been looking at my possible options (not so much here given chilean market size),
– Liqui Moly MoS2-LEICHTLAUF SAE 10W-40
– Royal Purple 10W-40
– Castrol RS 0W-40
– A good SAE API SN oil + Liqui Moly CERATEC additiveIn general I prefer more oil changes and less miles (on reasonably priced oil) than more miles in the same oil (expensive oil)
Any recommendations are welcome!
Thanks Eric!
I’m going to get new camshaft (SR16VE N1, which is plug and play), new pistons and rings so I can make better use of the engine opening.
I’ll get back to you guys when I somehow fill my empty pockets LOL
Thanks!
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Honestly I don’t think the 195 is high so much as the rest are a little low and not an uncommon thing in my experience, usually the cylinder with the least wear is closest to the coolant inlet coming from the radiator, it stays cooler longer and more consistently. That said you say it got worse after you changed the oil, you wouldn’t have happened to change it with synthetic oil would you? If so this could be the cause of increased oil consumption. If you’re running regular oil your engine is probably getting worn and burning more oil, in my experience it’s not any one thing that normally causes increased oil consumption when it comes to engine wear it seems to occur evenly and throughout the engine so just going in and changing the valve seals or piston rings isn’t necessarily going to cut it you normally have to do a full rebuild with the proper machining and measuring OR replace it with a used or rebuilt unit (I consider this option the most practical and to have the best chances of success). Lastly if you do a lot of sustained high speed driving like 70-80mph on the highway for long periods this will increase cylinder pressure and cause increased oil consumption on ANY engine not just an older worn out one.
Hi Eric, I’ve used syntetic oil since I bought the car.
Is it possible that oil is getting inside the cylinder trough the piston rings due to an oil ring being out of place? (like it lightly rotated)?
Quoted From Heath Knox:
I try to stay away from cars that have been modified but, can you check your valve adjustment. If those valves are staying closed to long it could cause this. At least in the exhaust side. I only say this in theory cause I never personally seen it. And I never had to work on a Nissan yet.
Would seem weird to me that it’s just one cylinder that’s causing the problem if that was the case.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Are those compression numbers from a dry or wet test? If the readings increase on a wet test, usually its a sign on ring wear.
For the valve guide seals, if you see some blue smoke on deceleration (have someone follow you), thats usually a sign of worn valve guide seals.
Is your PCV system working correctly?
Dry test, I wouldn’t think my rings are worn out as the reading has excess pressure, not lack of.
As I asked Eric, I think maybe one of the oil rings rotated slightly causing oil to end up in the cylinder.
About the PCV, I think it’s working fine, and if it was the cause my throttle body would be choked with oil all over, not the case. I’ll probably eliminate it next week along with bypassing the throttle body heating system.
Quoted From college man:
By the looks of the plugs. Your oil fouled. Do a leak down test.C8-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … plpp_video leak down test
Those are not my actual plugs, posted them as a reference. I’m not sure if a leak down test would be of any help since my problem is an excess of compression, not a combustion leak.
Thanks for your reply
Quoted From Beefy:
Is this the car in your avatar? Do you race it? I’m not sure how much help I can offer if so. It looks like the plus is getting too much fuel. Maybe try moving the fuel injector to a different cylinder. This doesn’t explain the compression issue, but maybe the carbon on the plug. Oil burns will give you a white crusty build-up. The top plug looks almost fouled.
Edit: It’s been awhile since I ‘read’ spark plugs, so you might disregard my post. I did find this handy tid-bit though.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo … aqread.asp.
Nope, not the car in my avatar, look at the link I posted to see the actual car 😉
The pictures are not my actual spark plugs and I got them from the denso website (almost the same as the NGK link you posted)
Thanks for your reply