Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Both me and my mechanic are out of ideas, i got nothing else to do but to take the car to a Honda shop and let them rip me off.
Both me and my mechanic are out of ideas, i got nothing else to do but to take the car to a Honda shop and let them rip me off.
Hello everyone,
Just stopping by with some updates on the issue.
I’ve been checking codes with a scanner fairly frequently ever since I got this problem. No codes ever showed up until last week when I got a P1337: “Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor No Signal” and a P0132 “O2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 1”.
Searching through various forums I found that the P1337 was most likely due to a faulty crank position sensor. In MY case the sensor was missing. Yes, it was not there. I bought the sensor and the mechanic installed it. Checked for codes again, P1337 was gone. Cleared all codes and took the car for a drive. Drove for about 10 minutes and then hooked the scanner back on. P1337 is gone for good however P0132 is still showing up.
I have been looking for this O2 sensor for a few days but none of the pictures I come across with seem to match what I have in my D16Y8 engine. The primary o2 sensor is supposed to be mounted right in the front side of the exhaust manifold, the manifold shield is supposed to have an orifice through which the sensor is supposed to go, the heat shield in my manifold does not have that orifice. Does anyone know or can send a picture of where I am supposed to look for this sensor.
thanks much
**Update 10/22 10:23am ET
The new crank position sensor did not fix the issue
Havent found the O2 sensor location yetHello everyone,
Just stopping by with some updates on the issue.
I’ve been checking codes with a scanner fairly frequently ever since I got this problem. No codes ever showed up until last week when I got a P1337: “Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor No Signal” and a P0132 “O2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 1”.
Searching through various forums I found that the P1337 was most likely due to a faulty crank position sensor. In MY case the sensor was missing. Yes, it was not there. I bought the sensor and the mechanic installed it. Checked for codes again, P1337 was gone. Cleared all codes and took the car for a drive. Drove for about 10 minutes and then hooked the scanner back on. P1337 is gone for good however P0132 is still showing up.
I have been looking for this O2 sensor for a few days but none of the pictures I come across with seem to match what I have in my D16Y8 engine. The primary o2 sensor is supposed to be mounted right in the front side of the exhaust manifold, the manifold shield is supposed to have an orifice through which the sensor is supposed to go, the heat shield in my manifold does not have that orifice. Does anyone know or can send a picture of where I am supposed to look for this sensor.
thanks much
**Update 10/22 10:23am ET
The new crank position sensor did not fix the issue
Havent found the O2 sensor location yetThe mechanic has just finished performing some of the performance tests suggested in Eric’s videos.
-Power balance test -> passed, same power band drop on all cylinders.
-Voltage leak test -> passed, no sparks or audible clicks/snaps.
-Vacuum leak test ( w/carburetor cleaner) -> passed, no RPM change found anywhere in the intake system.
-Ignition and engine timing were slightly off, they were corrected accordingly.
-All the belts are still in good condition.Having completed all the tests, the issue is still present with no noticeable improvement 🙁
The only observation I can make at this point is that the erratic pattern of occurrence is starting to narrow down. Occurrences are more often seen as the engine is mildly warm or when its hot and always at low RPM, low gear and low speed. I have also noticed that I can prevent the fishbiting/coughing from happening altogether by depressing the gas pedal further as I start to feel that it is losing power.
The mechanic has just finished performing some of the performance tests suggested in Eric’s videos.
-Power balance test -> passed, same power band drop on all cylinders.
-Voltage leak test -> passed, no sparks or audible clicks/snaps.
-Vacuum leak test ( w/carburetor cleaner) -> passed, no RPM change found anywhere in the intake system.
-Ignition and engine timing were slightly off, they were corrected accordingly.
-All the belts are still in good condition.Having completed all the tests, the issue is still present with no noticeable improvement 🙁
The only observation I can make at this point is that the erratic pattern of occurrence is starting to narrow down. Occurrences are more often seen as the engine is mildly warm or when its hot and always at low RPM, low gear and low speed. I have also noticed that I can prevent the fishbiting/coughing from happening altogether by depressing the gas pedal further as I start to feel that it is losing power.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=113995]I’ve NEVER seen a Honda fuel psi listed at 110. I have no idea where you got that spec, I believe the 40psi was the correct number. Also, I believe I’ve stated this in the past, Honda fuel pumps rarely go bad. In fact, Honda fuel systems are pretty much bullet proof. I would be looking elsewhere for the cause of the problem like checking mechanical and also the ignition system. I also suggest reading through this article that details how to resolve performance issues like this.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5D
Hi Eric. I will try out each one of those suggestions from the link you provided.
Just to clarify, the 110 PSI mark I got it from the mechanic and given i could not find any information in the past 3 days after the pump replacement, I have to go by what I am told and for good or bad it had to remain as the truth until I could verify the facts from another source, which in this case is was your vast experience.
That being said, I will continue the search and will post back.
thanks for the support.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=113995]I’ve NEVER seen a Honda fuel psi listed at 110. I have no idea where you got that spec, I believe the 40psi was the correct number. Also, I believe I’ve stated this in the past, Honda fuel pumps rarely go bad. In fact, Honda fuel systems are pretty much bullet proof. I would be looking elsewhere for the cause of the problem like checking mechanical and also the ignition system. I also suggest reading through this article that details how to resolve performance issues like this.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5D
Hi Eric. I will try out each one of those suggestions from the link you provided.
Just to clarify, the 110 PSI mark I got it from the mechanic and given i could not find any information in the past 3 days after the pump replacement, I have to go by what I am told and for good or bad it had to remain as the truth until I could verify the facts from another source, which in this case is was your vast experience.
That being said, I will continue the search and will post back.
thanks for the support.
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=113893]Fill you gas tank up with some good quality regular gas. Put 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in a full tank. You will know it’s working when you can no longer hear your fuel pump, while waiting for you check engine light to go out. It will also clear up your fuel injectors. Let me know if you notice a difference.[/quote]
Unfortunately for me, that product is not sold in the country.
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=113893]Fill you gas tank up with some good quality regular gas. Put 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in a full tank. You will know it’s working when you can no longer hear your fuel pump, while waiting for you check engine light to go out. It will also clear up your fuel injectors. Let me know if you notice a difference.[/quote]
Unfortunately for me, that product is not sold in the country.
Does it make any sense to believe that an obstruction of some sort (fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail, injector seals) might have made the old pump overwork and give out?
If that is the case then the new pump may be at risk of facing the same fate.
Does it make any sense to believe that an obstruction of some sort (fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail, injector seals) might have made the old pump overwork and give out?
If that is the case then the new pump may be at risk of facing the same fate.
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=113873]Don’t recommend running higher octane in a stock 99 Civic. If I remember right, you should be running 87 octane. Around here that is “regular”, so I never look at the number.
Here is a better test. When your sitting in your car, and all is quiet. Turn on you ignition till the check engine light comes on, but don’t start the car. Wait till the check engine light goes off. Did you hear the fuel pump wind up under the back seat? Now start the car. Did it fire right up?[/quote]
I did this assessment with the old fuel pump but I am willing to perform it again. I was able to hear the old pump with the ignition turned on and the car did fire right up after turning the key all the way. I will give it a try with the new pump and let you know even though I don’t quite understand what is being put to test with this.
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=113873]Don’t recommend running higher octane in a stock 99 Civic. If I remember right, you should be running 87 octane. Around here that is “regular”, so I never look at the number.
Here is a better test. When your sitting in your car, and all is quiet. Turn on you ignition till the check engine light comes on, but don’t start the car. Wait till the check engine light goes off. Did you hear the fuel pump wind up under the back seat? Now start the car. Did it fire right up?[/quote]
I did this assessment with the old fuel pump but I am willing to perform it again. I was able to hear the old pump with the ignition turned on and the car did fire right up after turning the key all the way. I will give it a try with the new pump and let you know even though I don’t quite understand what is being put to test with this.
[quote=”cb7ftw” post=113869]Are you buying the cheapest gas in town?[/quote]
Hi there. Quite the contrary. Been running the most expensive fuel available in town (you’d be surprised to find out how much they charge per gallon). Though this being a 3rd world country I do have my doubts regarding this premium fuel..at least the engine doesnt knock so it cant be that bad.