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Your manual trans actually calls for ATF. I’d throw the full syn in it and see if it helps. Certainly can’t hurt. But for the symptoms you have I bet you damaged some syncros.
It will work for more miles than advertised. I can see it still being viable to 7500 pretty easy considering it costs about double. If in doubt, there’s a way to check its performance in your car. Go to a semi truck repair shop or especially a Caterpillar or a Cummins factory repair facility. Buy a couple of oil sample kits from them. I think they are $25 or so but don’t quote me. Take a sample of your oil and send it in to them. They will get back to you with how much of everything they find in it, and let you know how much life is left in it. Trucking companies use it to alert them to upcoming problems with their trucks and allow them to extend their maintenance intervals out safely so they save money. If you wanted to know if coolant was getting in your oil it will show you in parts per million, well before you could even test under the hood and know you had a problem. Do a few of those tests and the results will let you know how far you can run this and still give your engine the proper protection it needs.
It will work for more miles than advertised. I can see it still being viable to 7500 pretty easy considering it costs about double. If in doubt, there’s a way to check its performance in your car. Go to a semi truck repair shop or especially a Caterpillar or a Cummins factory repair facility. Buy a couple of oil sample kits from them. I think they are $25 or so but don’t quote me. Take a sample of your oil and send it in to them. They will get back to you with how much of everything they find in it, and let you know how much life is left in it. Trucking companies use it to alert them to upcoming problems with their trucks and allow them to extend their maintenance intervals out safely so they save money. If you wanted to know if coolant was getting in your oil it will show you in parts per million, well before you could even test under the hood and know you had a problem. Do a few of those tests and the results will let you know how far you can run this and still give your engine the proper protection it needs.
Prestone and several other brands make additives for flushing that do pretty decent for normal maintenance. For that Grand Prix you’re doing it at the right time, before you have issues. Don’t try to take out frost plugs. Its not going to help. Drain the system of your old coolant. Add the additive and fill with water, and you can use your garden hose water just fine. Run the engine according to the instructions on the bottle of additive. Drain and refill with just water and run it again. This is your rinse cycle. I would highly recommend at this point that you disconnect the hoses for your heater core and backflush it to remove any deposits that can come back to bite you later on. Get them now and its smooth sailing. Once all is done, refill with the proper level of the coolant recommended by your OEM, which in your case is Dexcool.
I have never seen anyone, including shops, use distilled water. Basically as long as you never chipped a tooth from drinking a glass of it its good to go. The coolant itself has an additive package to ensure you don’t have issues provided it is changed on time.
Cascade isn’t something I would use for a normal flush, but I have used it in the past to clean systems contaminated by oil, such as bad transmission heat exchangers, head gaskets, intakes and it didn’t work bad at all.
Prestone and several other brands make additives for flushing that do pretty decent for normal maintenance. For that Grand Prix you’re doing it at the right time, before you have issues. Don’t try to take out frost plugs. Its not going to help. Drain the system of your old coolant. Add the additive and fill with water, and you can use your garden hose water just fine. Run the engine according to the instructions on the bottle of additive. Drain and refill with just water and run it again. This is your rinse cycle. I would highly recommend at this point that you disconnect the hoses for your heater core and backflush it to remove any deposits that can come back to bite you later on. Get them now and its smooth sailing. Once all is done, refill with the proper level of the coolant recommended by your OEM, which in your case is Dexcool.
I have never seen anyone, including shops, use distilled water. Basically as long as you never chipped a tooth from drinking a glass of it its good to go. The coolant itself has an additive package to ensure you don’t have issues provided it is changed on time.
Cascade isn’t something I would use for a normal flush, but I have used it in the past to clean systems contaminated by oil, such as bad transmission heat exchangers, head gaskets, intakes and it didn’t work bad at all.
There is no way to know that until you get it scanned and post the codes here so we can see them. The traction control system uses information it gets from the ABS wheel speed sensors to determine if it needs to take action. The wheel speed sensors are also monitored by the ABS for the same reason. If a fault of any kind exists in the ABS system, it defaults to normal braking and turns on the light. If the ABS isn’t working traction control isn’t either.
The first step is going to find out what codes are stored in your ABS module and then go from there to start diagnosing the issue.
There is no way to know that until you get it scanned and post the codes here so we can see them. The traction control system uses information it gets from the ABS wheel speed sensors to determine if it needs to take action. The wheel speed sensors are also monitored by the ABS for the same reason. If a fault of any kind exists in the ABS system, it defaults to normal braking and turns on the light. If the ABS isn’t working traction control isn’t either.
The first step is going to find out what codes are stored in your ABS module and then go from there to start diagnosing the issue.
You don’t have a very big radiator but you do have a big engine. I would find a thick aluminum one, maybe through Summit Racing. Their sales guys can find one that will work for this application. Ditch that electric. Its fine in a small car, but cannot move nearly the airflow of an engine driven fan. Get one with a thermal clutch so it will come one only when needed and be sure to get a shroud as well. Without a fan shround airflow won’t be pulled through the radiator at nearly enough velocity to effectively cool this engine. Summit should be able to set you up with the whole package pretty easy. I’ve dealt with them for years and never had an issue, and prices are competetive.
You don’t have a very big radiator but you do have a big engine. I would find a thick aluminum one, maybe through Summit Racing. Their sales guys can find one that will work for this application. Ditch that electric. Its fine in a small car, but cannot move nearly the airflow of an engine driven fan. Get one with a thermal clutch so it will come one only when needed and be sure to get a shroud as well. Without a fan shround airflow won’t be pulled through the radiator at nearly enough velocity to effectively cool this engine. Summit should be able to set you up with the whole package pretty easy. I’ve dealt with them for years and never had an issue, and prices are competetive.
Don’t pull out that bulb. Ignoring trouble doesn’t do any good for an ostrich and won’t do much better for your car. I wish you had posted this info in the post you made about your oil. I don’t have access to a Daewoo database for that specific code but I’d be willing to bet this engine has variable valve timing on the exhaust camshaft and the code is a manufacturer specific code for that solenoid. Not changing your oil on time or using a different grade of oil than what the manufacturer specifies is guaranteed to set a code and not allow the VVT system to function correctly.
Don’t pull out that bulb. Ignoring trouble doesn’t do any good for an ostrich and won’t do much better for your car. I wish you had posted this info in the post you made about your oil. I don’t have access to a Daewoo database for that specific code but I’d be willing to bet this engine has variable valve timing on the exhaust camshaft and the code is a manufacturer specific code for that solenoid. Not changing your oil on time or using a different grade of oil than what the manufacturer specifies is guaranteed to set a code and not allow the VVT system to function correctly.
Smell isn’t a good way to diagnose this as bad or good. Its been 4 months now, so you’re due again anyway. If you haven’t changed it very regularly before this, you could have a lot of sludge buildup that will foul the oil early. Eric has a vid on the site about what happens when oil doesn’t get changed that is worth looking at.
Smell isn’t a good way to diagnose this as bad or good. Its been 4 months now, so you’re due again anyway. If you haven’t changed it very regularly before this, you could have a lot of sludge buildup that will foul the oil early. Eric has a vid on the site about what happens when oil doesn’t get changed that is worth looking at.
Eric, I think he’s talking about the engine oil cooler. Lot of Chev trucks had them. My 95 Suburban has the transmission cooler on the passenger side and an engine oil cooler on the drivers side of the radiator. The hoses come from a sandwich adapter mounted between the block and the oil filter. They do get bad over time.
Original poster, are the hoses you are talking about for the transmission or the engine?
Eric, I think he’s talking about the engine oil cooler. Lot of Chev trucks had them. My 95 Suburban has the transmission cooler on the passenger side and an engine oil cooler on the drivers side of the radiator. The hoses come from a sandwich adapter mounted between the block and the oil filter. They do get bad over time.
Original poster, are the hoses you are talking about for the transmission or the engine?