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Ok, the exhaust issue says a lot. If half your exhaust isn’t hooked up, the O2 sensor can’t get an accurate reading and your air/fuel mix is totally screwed. Thats why it doesn’t act right til you hit wide open throttle, when the ECM richens the mix and ignores the O2 reading. Get that exhaust straightened out and get the codes.
The hub grappler is a nice tool, but it seems geared towards those not using a shop press. It would work only if your vehicle is rust free and the interference fit isn’t too tight. Eric ended up using the adapters in his shop press as there was no way it was coming apart with the grappler, which does show the limits of the tool. For less than the grappler you could buy a shop press. Believe it or not the 20 ton unit at Harbor Freight isn’t a bad unit. I bought one just because I needed a press and it actually does decent enough. For adapters I use a set of 3/4 drive deep well impact sockets along with various sizes of pipe scraps and such. I also do welding and fab work, so I tend to have things like that laying around. Some larger fab shops will let you buy scraps out of their scrap bin for scrap price or just over it, so if you bring donuts for the crew and talk nice to the shop manager you might be able to dumpster dived for random bits that you can modify to make adapters with. A little torch cut here, a little grinding there and you can duplicate what you need pretty easily. I don’t think I would ever be able to justify the OTC tool because of that. Maybe I’d get the HF version but I’d use the adapters in my press and throw the weak forcing screw assembly in the scrap bin.
If you are not figuring on doing wheel bearings on anything but your car, and can’t rent that tool you might be coming out ahead by doing the R&R of the knuckle assembly and then having a car shop or machine shop do the press work for you. FInd a good independent shop and let them know you are paying cash, should get a reasonable rate.
Is this a turbo motor? By my memory the 91 was an NA IDI engine. Had an 89 F350 with the same setup. The glow plugs get going bad and usually take out the glow plug relay. That relay is the same part type as the mag switch for the starter. Replace it when you do the glow plugs, and also get the new wiring harness with the valve cover gaskets. Running as many amps as glow plugs do coupled with putting the wiring harness under the vanve cover makes it worth your time for a relatively cheap part to replace all of it if you are going to open it up and dive in.
With Karl on this one. Bad things happen when you mix fluids. A little bottle of the oil dye that is ok to put in this is less than ten bucks at the parts store. Why take the risk?
Timed for cold weather? This is a 95 it is fuel injected. The computer on it is a dinosaur EEC-IV and it controls your timing. My Bronco is 5 years older than your car and when it was subzero last week it fired right up. Something else is amiss with this car.
When you changed the IAC, did you clean its bore with a toothbrush and carb cleaner? Also, did you do the same to the back of the throttle plate and the throttle bore? If they get sooted up enough the IAC fails because the thing gets bound up trying to move in its bore. A good cleanup usually helps.
I like to use a transfer punch to mark center on these. Before taking the bracket off get one that just barely fits in the hole. All the other bolts in the bracket would need to be tight obviously. Then tap it to mark the bolt. Once the bracket is off you can get a better mark with a good center punch.
Drilling bolts is tricky. Takes some knowledge to get right on center and a quality bit at the right speed as has been mentioned. Harbor Freight bits aren’t going to cut it and no bit that is unlubed and run at high speed will last, it just burns them up. Usually you learn how to do it right by going through the headaches of what happens when you do it wrong, as you are learning. I’ve been in your boat before, as I am sure everyone else who has responded to your thread so far have at one point. Very soon when under the hood you will be temporarily incapable of saying any word that doesn’t have four letters and start with F. These words will be uttered at a higher than normal volume and may later be repeated by any small children within earshot.
I try to avoid drilling at all costs. I would’ve built the head of that bolt out a little more with a welder and then welded a nut on like Beaird touched on, but that would not only require owning a welder but being a bit skilled with it. Its a skill I would recommend learning for the future.
Now that the damage is done, I would try the idea with the Dremel. Remember to go slow and not overheat the carbide you are using. You may be able to hog this out enough to get an extractor in it and break it loose. Once it is out, follow these steps:
1. take a deep breath.
2. drink very heavily
3. relax and tell yourself it was just a bad dream that is now over.[quote=”Stixxs” post=135942] The extended warranty is a 3rd party. [/quote]
Be prepared to get hosed by the fine print. You need to contact this warranty company before you go in and get this pre-approved. I’ve seen a lot of horror stories from those companies. Always figuring a way to weasel out of paying anything. I read the exemptions of one once and was stunned. Like one company that would warranty a CV axle but not if the boot was torn. Considering that is how 99% of them fail its an easy way to screw a guy. Or refusing to pay for fluids, shop supplies, diagnosis, etc. They get into business to make money, and a lot of people get caught up in it.
Was this something you purchased on your own or did the Ford dealer set this up for you? If the dealer was the one offering it to you I would sit down with the sales department and let them know you are going to expect some help from them in dealing with the warranty they gave you, as their shop will not service your make of car and are sending it to Mitsubishi. Make your problem their problem as well.
If you unhook the line you will have to jump the load terminals of the fuel pump relay. When you turn the key on the pump only powers up for 2 seconds. It waits until the crank sensor sends a signal to the PCM to turn the pump relay back on.
I don’t mind adding to my toolset when I know I’ll get a lot of use out of them, but I hate buying tools for a car I don’t plan to deal with ever again.
If you are taking off an intake plenum you will need to replace the gasket.
I don’t mind seeing computer controls in vehicles. They have made them better. Think of using the old mechanical tech to make an engine with 550 horsepower. Yes, it is doable and then some. But that engine was a gas hog, had a lopey idle, didn’t start well if it was cold and was not really suited to daily driver duties. It was for the project car, the weekend toy. It also wasn’t going to last very long.
Fast forward to now. Cadillac put out the CTS-V making that much power with a smooth idle, good cold start properties, completely streetable and with a factory warranty. This would not be possible with the old methods and technology. So we did improve them, and there is no way we could’ve made emissions on the old tech.
You and I are in complete agreement about the software. I think it needs to be set in stone legally that the computer in the car is owned by the man whose name is on the title. No ifs, ands or buts. No grey area. I also do not believe that that computer should be wirelessly linked into any other system outside of that vehicle outside of the control of said owner. It needs to be stand-alone and unable to be accessed without manually entering the vehicle and physically hooking up to it. Anything else opens the door to bad things.
I’m looking forward to your PM and glad we are on the same page with this. I’d post a pic of my Bronco, but you might want to make sure your tetanus shot is updated before you even look at it. I haven’t gotten around to restoring it as it is my daily driver, and 25 years of WI salt coupled with the previous owner who was the town drunk shows. Its a crusty critter. When I do finally get a rotisserie built and get another vehicle to drive around I’ll be sure to document it and post a thread on here with the before, during and after.
EGR is not just for emissions. By allowing some cooled exhaust gases into the combustion chamber at part throttle cruising it reduces pinging, which lower octane gasoline would tend to do on cars that ran leaded gas. The early emissions systems were bad. It was an attempt to meet the new federal laws and they needed some time to get it right. By studying what was happening to these vehicles they were able to improve on the design and now we have cars that can meet emissions, start easily in cold weather and idle smoothly yet make more power than the engines of old. The technology and knowledge base were finally able to catch up to allow us to make good power with less emissions.
My Snap On rep has a saying that I think is perfect at explaining this. “If the Wright brothers could’ve built a 747 the first time around, they would have.”