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  • in reply to: Rotor / Disc brands comparisons w/ pictures #545414
    NickNick
    Participant

      Here are some additional pictures of the Centric Rotors (front and back)
      New front Centric v. used front stock oem rotors

      New front Centric installed

      Centrics front – 2 years old

      New centric cross pattern on rotors for better bedding of pads

      Used rear stock/oem v. new rear centric rear rotor

      Used centric rotor view of the outer edge, which comes E-coated but gets rusted.

      in reply to: Rotor / Disc brands comparisons w/ pictures #550181
      NickNick
      Participant

        Here are some additional pictures of the Centric Rotors (front and back)
        New front Centric v. used front stock oem rotors

        New front Centric installed

        Centrics front – 2 years old

        New centric cross pattern on rotors for better bedding of pads

        Used rear stock/oem v. new rear centric rear rotor

        Used centric rotor view of the outer edge, which comes E-coated but gets rusted.

        in reply to: Rotor / Disc brands comparisons w/ pictures #545380
        NickNick
        Participant

          Picture (above) represents a Wearever Rotor (Advance Autoparts)… if you don’t paint it yourself, this will happen within a month or two.

          Picture (above) represents two rotors. Left: a used stock/oem Toyota-Lexus rotor after numerous years of service. Right: the rotor that replaced it, a New CENTRIC e-coated 120-series rotor.

          Picture (above) of that same Centric rotor two years later, used with oem pads. Works well, like oem, but rusts a little bit worse/quicker than OEM.

          NB. this is from a snow/salty climate.

          Comclusion: OEM > Centric > Wearever
          for the money, go with the Centrics. For the longevity and money long term (4+years), go with the oem.

          in reply to: Rotor / Disc brands comparisons w/ pictures #550145
          NickNick
          Participant

            Picture (above) represents a Wearever Rotor (Advance Autoparts)… if you don’t paint it yourself, this will happen within a month or two.

            Picture (above) represents two rotors. Left: a used stock/oem Toyota-Lexus rotor after numerous years of service. Right: the rotor that replaced it, a New CENTRIC e-coated 120-series rotor.

            Picture (above) of that same Centric rotor two years later, used with oem pads. Works well, like oem, but rusts a little bit worse/quicker than OEM.

            NB. this is from a snow/salty climate.

            Comclusion: OEM > Centric > Wearever
            for the money, go with the Centrics. For the longevity and money long term (4+years), go with the oem.

            in reply to: 92 Accord Wagon No Heat #544519
            NickNick
            Participant

              wow your engine compartment is *sick*. Is every part/hose brand new?

              I had an Accord Wagon 91 and everything that possibly could have failed did between year 15 and year 20. Ball joints, fuel tank, oil pan, exhaust front-back, front calipers/wheel cylinders, blower motor, windshield, and the body had over 20 touch up spots and a full roof paint job… but I loved her dearly, as she rode low and with the EX-R sunroof, had the best ride/handling/comfort of any car I ever had no joke, and those sofa-like material chairs will never exist again. When I sold her for 1600$, her engine was leaking everywhere and so were my tears! Oh yeah and her TCU/ECU was so messed up that the 4-gear automatic box would go into limp mode all the time, plus I should mention that the cowl panel rusted through and the water would pool in the foot wells about 5 inches deep and create skating rinks for my rear passengers, which was cool when we went skating and actually had our skates on. LOVED the green accent lighting on the dash at night and the heating in the winder was on a dime. But seriously, If it wasn’t for the constant panic attacks I had while driving her, those country highway/road trips were the most satisfying drives of my life. Honda!, shape up, your new line is boring as bread! Bring back your wagons, seriously would blow out any other wagon (outback seriously!?!) on the market today. I’m thinking of moving to Europe just to try out their wagon over there.

              in reply to: 92 Accord Wagon No Heat #549179
              NickNick
              Participant

                wow your engine compartment is *sick*. Is every part/hose brand new?

                I had an Accord Wagon 91 and everything that possibly could have failed did between year 15 and year 20. Ball joints, fuel tank, oil pan, exhaust front-back, front calipers/wheel cylinders, blower motor, windshield, and the body had over 20 touch up spots and a full roof paint job… but I loved her dearly, as she rode low and with the EX-R sunroof, had the best ride/handling/comfort of any car I ever had no joke, and those sofa-like material chairs will never exist again. When I sold her for 1600$, her engine was leaking everywhere and so were my tears! Oh yeah and her TCU/ECU was so messed up that the 4-gear automatic box would go into limp mode all the time, plus I should mention that the cowl panel rusted through and the water would pool in the foot wells about 5 inches deep and create skating rinks for my rear passengers, which was cool when we went skating and actually had our skates on. LOVED the green accent lighting on the dash at night and the heating in the winder was on a dime. But seriously, If it wasn’t for the constant panic attacks I had while driving her, those country highway/road trips were the most satisfying drives of my life. Honda!, shape up, your new line is boring as bread! Bring back your wagons, seriously would blow out any other wagon (outback seriously!?!) on the market today. I’m thinking of moving to Europe just to try out their wagon over there.

                in reply to: Eric, suggestion~ BRAKES ETCETERA #543693
                NickNick
                Participant

                  Thanks Eric. Yeah I saw most of your brake vids except the HOW TO SPOT & SERVICE A STUCK REAR BRAKE CALIPER, which answered many of my questions. But hoping you can clarify:

                  1) Is Synthetic grease (not regular grease, but indeed synthetic grease) okay for the caliper pins? ( I know you like Silicone Paste )

                  2) Can I change 1 prematurely worn out pad without changing the others on the rear axle if the others have lots of pad life left?

                  Thanks.

                  in reply to: Eric, suggestion~ BRAKES ETCETERA #548306
                  NickNick
                  Participant

                    Thanks Eric. Yeah I saw most of your brake vids except the HOW TO SPOT & SERVICE A STUCK REAR BRAKE CALIPER, which answered many of my questions. But hoping you can clarify:

                    1) Is Synthetic grease (not regular grease, but indeed synthetic grease) okay for the caliper pins? ( I know you like Silicone Paste )

                    2) Can I change 1 prematurely worn out pad without changing the others on the rear axle if the others have lots of pad life left?

                    Thanks.

                    in reply to: DIY brake job and insurance coverage #543540
                    NickNick
                    Participant

                      I’m from canada too and I can tell you without a doubt that it’s your life, so make a good choice.

                      If you know what you are doing, then you will take it out for a test run after and check it right away. If it’s good, then a few months down the line will be good too, so nothing to worry about.

                      If you are not sure, have a knowledgeable/experienced mechanic friend look over your work and see them do it in person and take notes.

                      Either way, don’t be reckless and don’t worry about a couple of months from now. If you mess up, you won’t make it past your neighbours front yard without noticing. Just be sure to torque all the bolts to spec and follow all the ERIC THE CAR GUY TIPS.

                      As for the insurance, not a big deal as we have no fault insurance in canada and liability insurance, so you’re good. If you have a warranty, it might void it if you demonstrate gross negligence though. Good Luck!

                      in reply to: DIY brake job and insurance coverage #548204
                      NickNick
                      Participant

                        I’m from canada too and I can tell you without a doubt that it’s your life, so make a good choice.

                        If you know what you are doing, then you will take it out for a test run after and check it right away. If it’s good, then a few months down the line will be good too, so nothing to worry about.

                        If you are not sure, have a knowledgeable/experienced mechanic friend look over your work and see them do it in person and take notes.

                        Either way, don’t be reckless and don’t worry about a couple of months from now. If you mess up, you won’t make it past your neighbours front yard without noticing. Just be sure to torque all the bolts to spec and follow all the ERIC THE CAR GUY TIPS.

                        As for the insurance, not a big deal as we have no fault insurance in canada and liability insurance, so you’re good. If you have a warranty, it might void it if you demonstrate gross negligence though. Good Luck!

                        in reply to: Can A/C compressors work sometime? #540003
                        NickNick
                        Participant

                          I don’t see that number in the Honda chart.
                          Are you sure that’s not too much pressure in the low/static line?
                          Can anyone confirm?

                          Attachments:
                          in reply to: Can A/C compressors work sometime? #536266
                          NickNick
                          Participant

                            I don’t see that number in the Honda chart.
                            Are you sure that’s not too much pressure in the low/static line?
                            Can anyone confirm?

                            Attachments:
                            in reply to: Can A/C compressors work sometime? #539982
                            NickNick
                            Participant

                              thanks wysetech and college man.

                              I think wysetech you might be right regarding the clutch overheating and shutting down. Is it possible to fix the clutch coil windings? kits? And is there a spray for fixing that?

                              Both of you mentioned a low charge. What are normal psi values in the Hi and Low lines given 75F Temp outdoors.

                              in reply to: Can A/C compressors work sometime? #536248
                              NickNick
                              Participant

                                thanks wysetech and college man.

                                I think wysetech you might be right regarding the clutch overheating and shutting down. Is it possible to fix the clutch coil windings? kits? And is there a spray for fixing that?

                                Both of you mentioned a low charge. What are normal psi values in the Hi and Low lines given 75F Temp outdoors.

                                in reply to: Charging system works only after 10min. driving?!? #539855
                                NickNick
                                Participant

                                  Tension is fine, and pulley is turning on alternator.

                                  also can’t reach the alternator for testing Voltage at source :angry:

                                  Anyone know anything about the ELD? (Electric Load Detector) that supposedly communicates the alternator with the ECU/PCM and has the ability to regulate the alternator output.

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