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Here are some additional pictures of the Centric Rotors (front and back)
New front Centric v. used front stock oem rotorsNew front Centric installed
Centrics front – 2 years old
New centric cross pattern on rotors for better bedding of pads
Used rear stock/oem v. new rear centric rear rotor
Used centric rotor view of the outer edge, which comes E-coated but gets rusted.
Here are some additional pictures of the Centric Rotors (front and back)
New front Centric v. used front stock oem rotorsNew front Centric installed
Centrics front – 2 years old
New centric cross pattern on rotors for better bedding of pads
Used rear stock/oem v. new rear centric rear rotor
Used centric rotor view of the outer edge, which comes E-coated but gets rusted.
Picture (above) represents a Wearever Rotor (Advance Autoparts)… if you don’t paint it yourself, this will happen within a month or two.
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–Picture (above) represents two rotors. Left: a used stock/oem Toyota-Lexus rotor after numerous years of service. Right: the rotor that replaced it, a New CENTRIC e-coated 120-series rotor.
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–Picture (above) of that same Centric rotor two years later, used with oem pads. Works well, like oem, but rusts a little bit worse/quicker than OEM.
NB. this is from a snow/salty climate.
Comclusion: OEM > Centric > Wearever
for the money, go with the Centrics. For the longevity and money long term (4+years), go with the oem.Picture (above) represents a Wearever Rotor (Advance Autoparts)… if you don’t paint it yourself, this will happen within a month or two.
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–Picture (above) represents two rotors. Left: a used stock/oem Toyota-Lexus rotor after numerous years of service. Right: the rotor that replaced it, a New CENTRIC e-coated 120-series rotor.
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–Picture (above) of that same Centric rotor two years later, used with oem pads. Works well, like oem, but rusts a little bit worse/quicker than OEM.
NB. this is from a snow/salty climate.
Comclusion: OEM > Centric > Wearever
for the money, go with the Centrics. For the longevity and money long term (4+years), go with the oem.wow your engine compartment is *sick*. Is every part/hose brand new?
I had an Accord Wagon 91 and everything that possibly could have failed did between year 15 and year 20. Ball joints, fuel tank, oil pan, exhaust front-back, front calipers/wheel cylinders, blower motor, windshield, and the body had over 20 touch up spots and a full roof paint job… but I loved her dearly, as she rode low and with the EX-R sunroof, had the best ride/handling/comfort of any car I ever had no joke, and those sofa-like material chairs will never exist again. When I sold her for 1600$, her engine was leaking everywhere and so were my tears! Oh yeah and her TCU/ECU was so messed up that the 4-gear automatic box would go into limp mode all the time, plus I should mention that the cowl panel rusted through and the water would pool in the foot wells about 5 inches deep and create skating rinks for my rear passengers, which was cool when we went skating and actually had our skates on. LOVED the green accent lighting on the dash at night and the heating in the winder was on a dime. But seriously, If it wasn’t for the constant panic attacks I had while driving her, those country highway/road trips were the most satisfying drives of my life. Honda!, shape up, your new line is boring as bread! Bring back your wagons, seriously would blow out any other wagon (outback seriously!?!) on the market today. I’m thinking of moving to Europe just to try out their wagon over there.
wow your engine compartment is *sick*. Is every part/hose brand new?
I had an Accord Wagon 91 and everything that possibly could have failed did between year 15 and year 20. Ball joints, fuel tank, oil pan, exhaust front-back, front calipers/wheel cylinders, blower motor, windshield, and the body had over 20 touch up spots and a full roof paint job… but I loved her dearly, as she rode low and with the EX-R sunroof, had the best ride/handling/comfort of any car I ever had no joke, and those sofa-like material chairs will never exist again. When I sold her for 1600$, her engine was leaking everywhere and so were my tears! Oh yeah and her TCU/ECU was so messed up that the 4-gear automatic box would go into limp mode all the time, plus I should mention that the cowl panel rusted through and the water would pool in the foot wells about 5 inches deep and create skating rinks for my rear passengers, which was cool when we went skating and actually had our skates on. LOVED the green accent lighting on the dash at night and the heating in the winder was on a dime. But seriously, If it wasn’t for the constant panic attacks I had while driving her, those country highway/road trips were the most satisfying drives of my life. Honda!, shape up, your new line is boring as bread! Bring back your wagons, seriously would blow out any other wagon (outback seriously!?!) on the market today. I’m thinking of moving to Europe just to try out their wagon over there.
Thanks Eric. Yeah I saw most of your brake vids except the HOW TO SPOT & SERVICE A STUCK REAR BRAKE CALIPER, which answered many of my questions. But hoping you can clarify:
1) Is Synthetic grease (not regular grease, but indeed synthetic grease) okay for the caliper pins? ( I know you like Silicone Paste )
2) Can I change 1 prematurely worn out pad without changing the others on the rear axle if the others have lots of pad life left?
Thanks.
Thanks Eric. Yeah I saw most of your brake vids except the HOW TO SPOT & SERVICE A STUCK REAR BRAKE CALIPER, which answered many of my questions. But hoping you can clarify:
1) Is Synthetic grease (not regular grease, but indeed synthetic grease) okay for the caliper pins? ( I know you like Silicone Paste )
2) Can I change 1 prematurely worn out pad without changing the others on the rear axle if the others have lots of pad life left?
Thanks.
I’m from canada too and I can tell you without a doubt that it’s your life, so make a good choice.
If you know what you are doing, then you will take it out for a test run after and check it right away. If it’s good, then a few months down the line will be good too, so nothing to worry about.
If you are not sure, have a knowledgeable/experienced mechanic friend look over your work and see them do it in person and take notes.
Either way, don’t be reckless and don’t worry about a couple of months from now. If you mess up, you won’t make it past your neighbours front yard without noticing. Just be sure to torque all the bolts to spec and follow all the ERIC THE CAR GUY TIPS.
As for the insurance, not a big deal as we have no fault insurance in canada and liability insurance, so you’re good. If you have a warranty, it might void it if you demonstrate gross negligence though. Good Luck!
I’m from canada too and I can tell you without a doubt that it’s your life, so make a good choice.
If you know what you are doing, then you will take it out for a test run after and check it right away. If it’s good, then a few months down the line will be good too, so nothing to worry about.
If you are not sure, have a knowledgeable/experienced mechanic friend look over your work and see them do it in person and take notes.
Either way, don’t be reckless and don’t worry about a couple of months from now. If you mess up, you won’t make it past your neighbours front yard without noticing. Just be sure to torque all the bolts to spec and follow all the ERIC THE CAR GUY TIPS.
As for the insurance, not a big deal as we have no fault insurance in canada and liability insurance, so you’re good. If you have a warranty, it might void it if you demonstrate gross negligence though. Good Luck!
I don’t see that number in the Honda chart.
Are you sure that’s not too much pressure in the low/static line?
Can anyone confirm?I don’t see that number in the Honda chart.
Are you sure that’s not too much pressure in the low/static line?
Can anyone confirm?thanks wysetech and college man.
I think wysetech you might be right regarding the clutch overheating and shutting down. Is it possible to fix the clutch coil windings? kits? And is there a spray for fixing that?
Both of you mentioned a low charge. What are normal psi values in the Hi and Low lines given 75F Temp outdoors.
thanks wysetech and college man.
I think wysetech you might be right regarding the clutch overheating and shutting down. Is it possible to fix the clutch coil windings? kits? And is there a spray for fixing that?
Both of you mentioned a low charge. What are normal psi values in the Hi and Low lines given 75F Temp outdoors.
Tension is fine, and pulley is turning on alternator.
also can’t reach the alternator for testing Voltage at source :angry:
Anyone know anything about the ELD? (Electric Load Detector) that supposedly communicates the alternator with the ECU/PCM and has the ability to regulate the alternator output.
