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what is the code ? the ecu is getting a lean signal so to compensate its giving a rich command check all your vacuum hoses it could be intake manifold cracked or something like that ?
what is the code ? the ecu is getting a lean signal so to compensate its giving a rich command check all your vacuum hoses it could be intake manifold cracked or something like that ?
ive never known an additive to the coolant system ever work on head gasket failures and believe me ive seen it a hundred times where my costumers have tried it before calling me out ? like eric says it would more than likely be something else on the cooling system ? and additives do cause a hell of a lot more problems than it will ever solve.
ive never known an additive to the coolant system ever work on head gasket failures and believe me ive seen it a hundred times where my costumers have tried it before calling me out ? like eric says it would more than likely be something else on the cooling system ? and additives do cause a hell of a lot more problems than it will ever solve.
don’t be to quick to blame the ecu as most times it turns out to be something more simple ? i would start at the ignition switch then follow wiring diagrams to fuses then relays ? i doubt it would be immobilizer as it would not run at all if that was the case ? you need to find the fuel pump relay remove it and see if it switches when the ignition is cycled. their should be high power side and a low power side if you remove the relay and check with a multimeter you should have 1 positive terminal and 3 negative when ignition is cycled to the on position you should have 2 positive terminals but bare in mind when switched to run position (not crank)the first initial switch cycle will only become live for 3 seconds or so on the lower power side. do this then let me know what results you get ?
don’t be to quick to blame the ecu as most times it turns out to be something more simple ? i would start at the ignition switch then follow wiring diagrams to fuses then relays ? i doubt it would be immobilizer as it would not run at all if that was the case ? you need to find the fuel pump relay remove it and see if it switches when the ignition is cycled. their should be high power side and a low power side if you remove the relay and check with a multimeter you should have 1 positive terminal and 3 negative when ignition is cycled to the on position you should have 2 positive terminals but bare in mind when switched to run position (not crank)the first initial switch cycle will only become live for 3 seconds or so on the lower power side. do this then let me know what results you get ?
What about some more in depth videos on electrical stuff ? like how to use a basic oscilloscope ? for the more advanced diy ers and upcoming techs as oscilloscope`s can be bought cheap enough . like explain more of scanner danners stuff in more understandable terms ? i think people would have a lot of interest in that sort of stuff.
What about some more in depth videos on electrical stuff ? like how to use a basic oscilloscope ? for the more advanced diy ers and upcoming techs as oscilloscope`s can be bought cheap enough . like explain more of scanner danners stuff in more understandable terms ? i think people would have a lot of interest in that sort of stuff.
are the exhaust valves slightly darker than the inlet valves ? i would just say that exhaust bank would be hotter than the inlet bank probably nothing to worrie about ? as for the noise ? just double check the valve clearances again ? making sure the valve you are testing is fully closed ?
are the exhaust valves slightly darker than the inlet valves ? i would just say that exhaust bank would be hotter than the inlet bank probably nothing to worrie about ? as for the noise ? just double check the valve clearances again ? making sure the valve you are testing is fully closed ?
this sounds like the all to common adjustment on the back of the master cylinder ? did you check that the rod on the back of the master cylinder was the same length as the one you took off ? or try and find out what it should be set too ? also if you disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and block it off that should give you some indication of functionality (be carefull brakes are like non existant when you have no booster )