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[quote=”college man” post=53446][quote=”drthrift035″ post=53444]OMG I have been doing it the wrong way for years. In fact when I worked in a garage the mechanics did it that way also. From this moment on I will never do it again that way. I could have damaged the Master Cylinder and created more more work for myself.
Thanks again CollegeMan. The thing you get on this site you can’t get anywhere else.[/quote]
We are happy to help. Thats why we are here. ;)[/quote]
When you bleed out a new master cylinder there are three ways to do it.
1. You can press the brake linkage to push brake fluid out of the unit… then hold your fingers over the holes before releaseing.
2. You do the same as above but instead of holding your fingers over the holes you take vinyl tubes and bring them around back into the brake fluid…. You pump until no more air in the master cylinder.
3. You reverse bleed on the bench – it is WAY faster. Just take a rather large syringe with some rubber tipped nozzle that can seal and into each outlet port push fluid in until the reservoir fills and the bubbles come out. This seems MUCH faster and isn’t likely any more harmful than pushing a caliper piston back in.
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You can open the bleeder, but do NOT clamp the high-pressure brake line.
When you push the caliper piston back in, it should go easily. Make sure you are straight because if you are at an angle, you could scuff the bore ruining the caliper.
The biggest trick is to go slow. ANYTIME you release the brakes, the piston retracts and some fluid returns to the master, so it shouldn’t be a problem fluid flowing in the reverse direction.
Suffice it to say you don’t want any air in the system…
I don’t flush the fluid… Just get it changed on my Mazda 3.
… I do it at 30,000 because my owners manual does NOT have a schedule for it, which I think is crazy.
I don’t flush the fluid… Just get it changed on my Mazda 3.
… I do it at 30,000 because my owners manual does NOT have a schedule for it, which I think is crazy.
My Mazda 3 I use OEM pads on, but right on the box it says Linings By: Akebono
- They are Ceramic
- They are Very Quiet (never a peep out of them)
- They stop great
- They make very little dust…
- They last a decently long time
What you want to do is find out what type of pad the OEM is before buying an aftermarket pad. If the OEM pad is Semi-Metallic, Organic, or Ceramic it makes a huge difference.
If you put a Semi-Metallic pad in a car that had Ceramic OEM, the pads will last a LONG time, but they will consume the rotor, dust like crazy, and make constant noise… if you upgrade to a ceramic pad, you might notice increased stopping distance on a car not designed for it…
In other words, try to match the OEM pad linings if you buy aftermarket unless you have a specific need to change something.
If you really want to get a close fit, find out who makes the OEM pad and buy from them if you don’t buy the real OEM pad from the dealer. i.e. If your pads are made by Raybestos for the OEM, it makes sense to maybe buy Raybestos pads…
Regardless, use good judgement and don’t throw on some $13 economy pads.
My Mazda 3 I use OEM pads on, but right on the box it says Linings By: Akebono
- They are Ceramic
- They are Very Quiet (never a peep out of them)
- They stop great
- They make very little dust…
- They last a decently long time
What you want to do is find out what type of pad the OEM is before buying an aftermarket pad. If the OEM pad is Semi-Metallic, Organic, or Ceramic it makes a huge difference.
If you put a Semi-Metallic pad in a car that had Ceramic OEM, the pads will last a LONG time, but they will consume the rotor, dust like crazy, and make constant noise… if you upgrade to a ceramic pad, you might notice increased stopping distance on a car not designed for it…
In other words, try to match the OEM pad linings if you buy aftermarket unless you have a specific need to change something.
If you really want to get a close fit, find out who makes the OEM pad and buy from them if you don’t buy the real OEM pad from the dealer. i.e. If your pads are made by Raybestos for the OEM, it makes sense to maybe buy Raybestos pads…
Regardless, use good judgement and don’t throw on some $13 economy pads.
Yeah, sprak plugs are terribly pickey. They should always be in the same heat range and type. I.e. Don’t buy a platinum plug if the car came with an irridium plug for example.
Personally, I just buy the EXACT same OEM plug ALWAYS. In the case of my Mazda 3, I needed the NGK Laser Iridium ILTR5A-13G plugs… The Actual OEM plugs said FordMoCo by NGK ILTR5A-13G…
They ARE the EXACT same plug… and no surprise the car is totally happy with them.
If the car is japaneese, it probably calls for a Denso or an NGK. An American car probably takes a Champion or an Autolite… a German likley takes Bosch…
Regardless, I cannot stress enough how silly some people are. The WORST thing someone could do is at 60,000 or 75,000 remove perfectly good working plugs (that should be replaced only based on millage) and put in standard copper $2 AutoLite plugs. They are just asking for a misfire. If I were a garage, I would outright refuse.
Yeah, sprak plugs are terribly pickey. They should always be in the same heat range and type. I.e. Don’t buy a platinum plug if the car came with an irridium plug for example.
Personally, I just buy the EXACT same OEM plug ALWAYS. In the case of my Mazda 3, I needed the NGK Laser Iridium ILTR5A-13G plugs… The Actual OEM plugs said FordMoCo by NGK ILTR5A-13G…
They ARE the EXACT same plug… and no surprise the car is totally happy with them.
If the car is japaneese, it probably calls for a Denso or an NGK. An American car probably takes a Champion or an Autolite… a German likley takes Bosch…
Regardless, I cannot stress enough how silly some people are. The WORST thing someone could do is at 60,000 or 75,000 remove perfectly good working plugs (that should be replaced only based on millage) and put in standard copper $2 AutoLite plugs. They are just asking for a misfire. If I were a garage, I would outright refuse.
Infiniti has also treated me pretty good. They tell me they will give me a free oil change; since, I just bought my new G35 Sedan…
The free one had damn well better be with their Nissan Synthetic Ester oil, too!!! I paid $37,306.81 OTD for it… so it seems to me they can afford to $50+ labor once. If not, it will be my last Infiniti
Infiniti has also treated me pretty good. They tell me they will give me a free oil change; since, I just bought my new G35 Sedan…
The free one had damn well better be with their Nissan Synthetic Ester oil, too!!! I paid $37,306.81 OTD for it… so it seems to me they can afford to $50+ labor once. If not, it will be my last Infiniti
My Mazda dealership has treated me pretty well recently.
1. They re-balanced a couple of tires free
2. Years ago they replaced the battery free of charge
3. They cleaned the passenger window track free of charge (think it was just a rang and screwdriver… but it did fix the sticking window)…
4. They replaced the exhaust heat-shield for about $200 (the cost of labor) AFTER it was out of warranty. Mazda coughed up the part and clearly fessed up that the clips that held it in place failed, so they would give a free part valued at about $400.
5. They did the recall on the wiper motor by adding a ground strap. Probably took a $1 part and 5 minutes, but it was no fuss.
6. Replaced a Power Steering pump several years ago under warranty… No fuss***********************
One thing they did that pissed me off…
Like 4 years ago when I had 15,000 miles they REFUSED to warranty the washer sprayer nozzles saying they are a wear item (B.S.). I fired their own warranty back at them quoting defects in materials and workmanship… that appear bumper to bumper within 36,000 miles… in normal driving conditions.
Since I don’t race the car and operated it on public streets… that’s normal. I only ever used washer fluids.
Suffice it to say I ended up having to pay for this repair and was pissed. 🙁
^^^ The motor corp did NOT stand behind their product! Eventually, I threw them under the buss by copying and pasting their warranties and emails into mediated dispute handled by the BBB. Then someone in upper management gave me a call spouting off toatally opposite B.S. about how they try to please the customer and this one just slipped through the cracks.
In two (2) weeks I got two letters. One saying SCREW YOU… and the other KISSING MY ASS.. <== Basically, they were just saving face and their A+ ^^^ After this event, I have had nothing but positive experiences with service though... I have had nothing to complain about.
My Mazda dealership has treated me pretty well recently.
1. They re-balanced a couple of tires free
2. Years ago they replaced the battery free of charge
3. They cleaned the passenger window track free of charge (think it was just a rang and screwdriver… but it did fix the sticking window)…
4. They replaced the exhaust heat-shield for about $200 (the cost of labor) AFTER it was out of warranty. Mazda coughed up the part and clearly fessed up that the clips that held it in place failed, so they would give a free part valued at about $400.
5. They did the recall on the wiper motor by adding a ground strap. Probably took a $1 part and 5 minutes, but it was no fuss.
6. Replaced a Power Steering pump several years ago under warranty… No fuss***********************
One thing they did that pissed me off…
Like 4 years ago when I had 15,000 miles they REFUSED to warranty the washer sprayer nozzles saying they are a wear item (B.S.). I fired their own warranty back at them quoting defects in materials and workmanship… that appear bumper to bumper within 36,000 miles… in normal driving conditions.
Since I don’t race the car and operated it on public streets… that’s normal. I only ever used washer fluids.
Suffice it to say I ended up having to pay for this repair and was pissed. 🙁
^^^ The motor corp did NOT stand behind their product! Eventually, I threw them under the buss by copying and pasting their warranties and emails into mediated dispute handled by the BBB. Then someone in upper management gave me a call spouting off toatally opposite B.S. about how they try to please the customer and this one just slipped through the cracks.
In two (2) weeks I got two letters. One saying SCREW YOU… and the other KISSING MY ASS.. <== Basically, they were just saving face and their A+ ^^^ After this event, I have had nothing but positive experiences with service though... I have had nothing to complain about.
It is not the same thing as bringing a steak to a steak house…
If you are a private garage, I would generally suggest offering parts at relatively competitive prices and generally not accepting after-market parts. i.e. If you are doing a brake job you don’t want a customer bringing in $9.99 semi-metallic pads because they are going to be upset there is dusting and noise.
That said, IF they are bringing in a Honda and just so happen to bring in Genuine OEM Honda Front brake pads, I see no reason to turn them away. If anything they made the job for you easier because you don’t have to A) Track Down the parts B) Won’t have to fuss with fitting parts that don’t quite fit right and C) they will work better (or as well) as the best after market parts, so you have no worries. The Care WILL brake as nicely and quietly as it did when new off the lot.
So, I see it as a YES/NO
If you are a dealer, you probably do not use any aftermarket parts… and you already have a supply of OEM parts and a supplier that can get them to you… I could see you not accepting any parts.
It is not the same thing as bringing a steak to a steak house…
If you are a private garage, I would generally suggest offering parts at relatively competitive prices and generally not accepting after-market parts. i.e. If you are doing a brake job you don’t want a customer bringing in $9.99 semi-metallic pads because they are going to be upset there is dusting and noise.
That said, IF they are bringing in a Honda and just so happen to bring in Genuine OEM Honda Front brake pads, I see no reason to turn them away. If anything they made the job for you easier because you don’t have to A) Track Down the parts B) Won’t have to fuss with fitting parts that don’t quite fit right and C) they will work better (or as well) as the best after market parts, so you have no worries. The Care WILL brake as nicely and quietly as it did when new off the lot.
So, I see it as a YES/NO
If you are a dealer, you probably do not use any aftermarket parts… and you already have a supply of OEM parts and a supplier that can get them to you… I could see you not accepting any parts.