Forum Replies Created
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Honestly though the HFC-134a stuff is not as bad as people make it out to be!!!
Take my current car, a 2008 Mazda 3. It has 1.1 pounds of R-134a (AKA 17.6oz of the stuff). If I were to release it ALL into the atmosphere, somehow I would be a criminal. In contrast, I could go pick-up those Dust-off or Fellows computer spray dusters and release the same stuff into the air “legally.”
The Fellows “non-flammable” Pressurized Duster (i.e. Computer/keyboard duster)… This one:
[IMG]http://assets.fellowes.com/images/products/zoom/9963101.png[/IMG]It contains: 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane
Has this for it’s MSDS:
http://images.discountofficeitems.com/pub/Master_Images/Master_PDF_Files/FEL99790_MSDS.PDFThat’s right boys and girls… 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane
That is analogous to:
Dymel 134a
Forane 134a
Genetron 134a
HFA-134a
HFC-134a
R-134a
Suva 134aOkay, so what’s the difference between:
[IMG]http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/394/394/467/467394394_860.jpg[/IMG]and
[IMG]http://assets.fellowes.com/images/products/zoom/9963101.png[/IMG]
Answer: TAX (paid to our government mafia friends in Washington) :whistle:
Not sure what you are talking about. What State?
Also, all that said, I don’t care because I am NOT even remotely considering a Kia or Hyundai… Been burned once, and I am done!
Not sure what you are talking about. What State?
Also, all that said, I don’t care because I am NOT even remotely considering a Kia or Hyundai… Been burned once, and I am done!
Absolutely nothing from Hyundai or Kia for me. Worst car I have EVER owned was a Hyundai… NEVER again.
My very first car, EVER was a 2002 Hyundai Accent GS 1.6 L… The ONLY thing good about this car can be described in one word “WARRANTY”
That car was the biggest (err. smallest) POS that ever went down the road.
7K Started rattling in the doors
15k would NOT shift gears… Needed a new pulse sensor or something
20K Speakers went out and took two tries to get fixed.
30K Transmission roughness… Poor shift quality
35K No Reverse Gear… Iron filings in transmission gravey… Gets new Transmission
45K Won’t Shift… Gets replacement solenoid
55k Starts slipping
60K Gets new Timing Belt. Within 15 miles timing belt breaks. Gets replacement engine
65K Starts making sonic booms with every shift… Shifts so rough it leaves black marks on the road!!! Starts stalling out at EVERY stop light as if someone forgot to push in the non-existant clutch. Gets new Transmission
80K Some other transmission component needed changing
89K Would NOT pass Calfornia smog NOx too high. Wanted $1495 for a new CATWas towed on the flat-bed truck-of-shame a couple times.
Needed tires every 17,500 miles (They would NOT wear right despite having an alignment)
Unable to align. Was recommended to install camber kit or camber bolt or something.
AC quit working annually.
Blower motor quit (luckily it was cake to replace and only about $60)
Needed front brake pads every 15,000!
Had incredible brake fade. Sometimes you would hit the brakes at like 45 MPH and it would require a football field’s distance to stop. (It did help to pull the eBrake… NOBODY could EVER find out why though)Was doing a little song and dance when I got a brand, new car in 2008. It was amazing. A) It didn’t rattle or shutter. B) Took some getting used to the brakes being I had the propensity to brake HARD just to get the other car to stop. This one kept trying to throw me through the window util I was used to it, lol. C) It does 0 – 60 in the same time the Hyundai did 0 – 40. D) Its transmission was SO much smoother I had to watch the display and look at the tachometer to see it really did shift, and D) Got better Gas Millage E) Its maintenance consisted of “oil changes”
Absolutely nothing from Hyundai or Kia for me. Worst car I have EVER owned was a Hyundai… NEVER again.
My very first car, EVER was a 2002 Hyundai Accent GS 1.6 L… The ONLY thing good about this car can be described in one word “WARRANTY”
That car was the biggest (err. smallest) POS that ever went down the road.
7K Started rattling in the doors
15k would NOT shift gears… Needed a new pulse sensor or something
20K Speakers went out and took two tries to get fixed.
30K Transmission roughness… Poor shift quality
35K No Reverse Gear… Iron filings in transmission gravey… Gets new Transmission
45K Won’t Shift… Gets replacement solenoid
55k Starts slipping
60K Gets new Timing Belt. Within 15 miles timing belt breaks. Gets replacement engine
65K Starts making sonic booms with every shift… Shifts so rough it leaves black marks on the road!!! Starts stalling out at EVERY stop light as if someone forgot to push in the non-existant clutch. Gets new Transmission
80K Some other transmission component needed changing
89K Would NOT pass Calfornia smog NOx too high. Wanted $1495 for a new CATWas towed on the flat-bed truck-of-shame a couple times.
Needed tires every 17,500 miles (They would NOT wear right despite having an alignment)
Unable to align. Was recommended to install camber kit or camber bolt or something.
AC quit working annually.
Blower motor quit (luckily it was cake to replace and only about $60)
Needed front brake pads every 15,000!
Had incredible brake fade. Sometimes you would hit the brakes at like 45 MPH and it would require a football field’s distance to stop. (It did help to pull the eBrake… NOBODY could EVER find out why though)Was doing a little song and dance when I got a brand, new car in 2008. It was amazing. A) It didn’t rattle or shutter. B) Took some getting used to the brakes being I had the propensity to brake HARD just to get the other car to stop. This one kept trying to throw me through the window util I was used to it, lol. C) It does 0 – 60 in the same time the Hyundai did 0 – 40. D) Its transmission was SO much smoother I had to watch the display and look at the tachometer to see it really did shift, and D) Got better Gas Millage E) Its maintenance consisted of “oil changes”
LOL… 4 hours for Removing, Re-paring, Rebuilding, and re-installing a transmission?
Who sets those flat-rates?
How much time does it really take?
LOL… 4 hours for Removing, Re-paring, Rebuilding, and re-installing a transmission?
Who sets those flat-rates?
How much time does it really take?
LOL… Ohming a light blub.
You: The light bulb is bad, so I replaced it.
Engineer: How do you know the bulb was bad?
You: It didn’t light up until I replaced it.
Engineer: Yeah, but how do you know the bulb is bad?
You: It’s a pattern failure… and Experience.
Engineer: How did you verify the bulb is bad though…
You: (Grabs Meter)LOL… Ohming a light blub.
You: The light bulb is bad, so I replaced it.
Engineer: How do you know the bulb was bad?
You: It didn’t light up until I replaced it.
Engineer: Yeah, but how do you know the bulb is bad?
You: It’s a pattern failure… and Experience.
Engineer: How did you verify the bulb is bad though…
You: (Grabs Meter)Great News,
EVAP finally passed of its own volition.
Here is what I had done:
1. PCM replaced and flashed with original flash. (Still didn’t work)…
2. Went back and had a PCM Calibration (which means re-flashed again)… This time with a MUCH newer flash image, which the dealer said, “we don’t know what it does” :sick:
3. All the monitors went down and came back except EVAP… Maybe just an incomplete drive-cycle.
4. Added silicone lube (brake lube to the gas cap gasket) and cleaned tank filler…Filled gas tank to full and drove from Fallbrook, CA to Desert Hot Springs, CA and stayed with my sister through Christmas… She lives up in the mountains where it is dry and the elevation is high and there are windmills…
Regardless I tested it this morning and ALL Monitors passed!!! banana:
Took it in and it passed Smog!!! :woohoo:
Okay, so what really fixed it?
Great News,
EVAP finally passed of its own volition.
Here is what I had done:
1. PCM replaced and flashed with original flash. (Still didn’t work)…
2. Went back and had a PCM Calibration (which means re-flashed again)… This time with a MUCH newer flash image, which the dealer said, “we don’t know what it does” :sick:
3. All the monitors went down and came back except EVAP… Maybe just an incomplete drive-cycle.
4. Added silicone lube (brake lube to the gas cap gasket) and cleaned tank filler…Filled gas tank to full and drove from Fallbrook, CA to Desert Hot Springs, CA and stayed with my sister through Christmas… She lives up in the mountains where it is dry and the elevation is high and there are windmills…
Regardless I tested it this morning and ALL Monitors passed!!! banana:
Took it in and it passed Smog!!! :woohoo:
Okay, so what really fixed it?
No, never got a new thermostat. Two dealers and myself think that code was a one-time fluke. It happened several months ago and has never re-currred. The coolant is good, there are no air bubbles, the temp sensor seems to be working okay, and the car IS getting up to temp without overheating.
Right now everyone thinks the T-Stat is fine. It’s measured temp was 181 F when hot.
No, never got a new thermostat. Two dealers and myself think that code was a one-time fluke. It happened several months ago and has never re-currred. The coolant is good, there are no air bubbles, the temp sensor seems to be working okay, and the car IS getting up to temp without overheating.
Right now everyone thinks the T-Stat is fine. It’s measured temp was 181 F when hot.
I haven’t been that luckey. I have 87k, and a PZEV warranty on the car through 150k/15yr
Mazda BARELY warrants anything. They are FAR worse than Hyundai when it comes to warranty and would rather blame me, the driver. Case and point, I had an exhaust heat-shield dragging on the ground because the plastic clips melted (design defect), and it was within warranty. Mazda wanted ALL Oil Change receipts, wanted me to prove I never drove a Mazda 3 “off-road” etc…
Thus far, I have had to pay a couple hundred dollars out of pocket because the dealers claim, there is NO warranty unless they have to change a part out. The book, in contrast, says “should a warrantable condition exists, Mazda will pay for service including: diagnostics, parts, and labor.
The dealer says NO, all those things come together or not at all. As far as I can tell they are in a list and in my opinion a PZEV warranty means teh car damn well better pass for 150k. I am NOT too happy to be out-of-pocket for labor and diagnostics. As far as I am concerned, not passing SMOG is a warrantable condition (or should be).
The whole thing is complete B.S., and the Dealer is the agent. That said, I fully intend to submit a BBB complaint because I can EASILY define my problems, substantiate them, include parts numbers, exhibits, text from from their own warranty manuals, examples/explanations, point out that no exclusions apply, that it failed two smog checks.
The problem is the dealer has been good about it, and I don’t want to burn any of the people whom I worked with. I have been in tech/customer service jobs, and it is NEVER a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you, lol.
Don’t get me wrong, if I brought a vehicle to them with nothing wrong with it, that would NOT be a warrantable condition, and I would expect to get hit with a 1 hour diagnostic fee. In contrast, if a vehicle is warranted to pass smog for 150K/15yr and it can’t be tested (isn’t ready) that seems like a defect. It is NOT like I have disconnected the battery on that car in 13 months! I also tried every Drive-Test I could find on the Internet even those for different cars.
***********
Should I launch the complaint against the motor company vs. the Dealer? I totally believe them that they only get paid for warranty work when they are paid to replace parts, and no way in “tar-nation” should a tech or mechanic be the one to take any heat over a complaint like this.
How would you guys handle a complaint? and against whom should I make it?
I haven’t been that luckey. I have 87k, and a PZEV warranty on the car through 150k/15yr
Mazda BARELY warrants anything. They are FAR worse than Hyundai when it comes to warranty and would rather blame me, the driver. Case and point, I had an exhaust heat-shield dragging on the ground because the plastic clips melted (design defect), and it was within warranty. Mazda wanted ALL Oil Change receipts, wanted me to prove I never drove a Mazda 3 “off-road” etc…
Thus far, I have had to pay a couple hundred dollars out of pocket because the dealers claim, there is NO warranty unless they have to change a part out. The book, in contrast, says “should a warrantable condition exists, Mazda will pay for service including: diagnostics, parts, and labor.
The dealer says NO, all those things come together or not at all. As far as I can tell they are in a list and in my opinion a PZEV warranty means teh car damn well better pass for 150k. I am NOT too happy to be out-of-pocket for labor and diagnostics. As far as I am concerned, not passing SMOG is a warrantable condition (or should be).
The whole thing is complete B.S., and the Dealer is the agent. That said, I fully intend to submit a BBB complaint because I can EASILY define my problems, substantiate them, include parts numbers, exhibits, text from from their own warranty manuals, examples/explanations, point out that no exclusions apply, that it failed two smog checks.
The problem is the dealer has been good about it, and I don’t want to burn any of the people whom I worked with. I have been in tech/customer service jobs, and it is NEVER a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you, lol.
Don’t get me wrong, if I brought a vehicle to them with nothing wrong with it, that would NOT be a warrantable condition, and I would expect to get hit with a 1 hour diagnostic fee. In contrast, if a vehicle is warranted to pass smog for 150K/15yr and it can’t be tested (isn’t ready) that seems like a defect. It is NOT like I have disconnected the battery on that car in 13 months! I also tried every Drive-Test I could find on the Internet even those for different cars.
***********
Should I launch the complaint against the motor company vs. the Dealer? I totally believe them that they only get paid for warranty work when they are paid to replace parts, and no way in “tar-nation” should a tech or mechanic be the one to take any heat over a complaint like this.
How would you guys handle a complaint? and against whom should I make it?