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Where do you live by the way? Are you by chance around the Savanna, GA or Beaufort County SC area?
If yes, let me know. I will totally walk you through it the first time.
Where do you live by the way? Are you by chance around the Savanna, GA or Beaufort County SC area?
If yes, let me know. I will totally walk you through it the first time.
I used to have 2.3l Mazda 3, which had the same engine and cartridge.
I ALWAYS bought the cartridge from the Mazda dealership for about $10. It came with two O-rings, which you will replace and oil with some fresh oil on your finger.
You should also replace the crush washer… the dealer will give this to your or throw this in for maybe a $1. Just make it known you want it.
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Drain Plug 22 ft lbs
Filter Housing 22 ft lbs
6mm Filter Drain Plug 8 ft lbsThis is the oil I always used in that engine:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5qt/17018132Okay, fill it to around 4 quarts and make sure it is on the dip stick… You have to look at the back of the stick because the front of the dipstick is useless, but you can still easily tell the oil level.
Then back it off the ramps!
Finally, shut it down and adjust the level. You should be right around 4.25 quarts.
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This is the oil filter tool I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBYDWW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It was black though… who cares what color it is.
I used to have 2.3l Mazda 3, which had the same engine and cartridge.
I ALWAYS bought the cartridge from the Mazda dealership for about $10. It came with two O-rings, which you will replace and oil with some fresh oil on your finger.
You should also replace the crush washer… the dealer will give this to your or throw this in for maybe a $1. Just make it known you want it.
*******************************
Drain Plug 22 ft lbs
Filter Housing 22 ft lbs
6mm Filter Drain Plug 8 ft lbsThis is the oil I always used in that engine:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5qt/17018132Okay, fill it to around 4 quarts and make sure it is on the dip stick… You have to look at the back of the stick because the front of the dipstick is useless, but you can still easily tell the oil level.
Then back it off the ramps!
Finally, shut it down and adjust the level. You should be right around 4.25 quarts.
****************
This is the oil filter tool I got:
It was black though… who cares what color it is.
It indicates the calipers are sticking a bit… Not an end of the world safety situation, but it is something you should look into.
Disassemble the caliper bracket, and remove all the slide pins… presumably, you already did this or you wouldn’t be showing us your brake pads. Clean everything with plenty of brake cleaning solvent – heck, I often bring everything to the kitchen sink and wash it in dish soap/degreaser… then dry it.
Regardless, replace the pads with OEM (or OEM-Like material – don’t go cheap here. If OEM is synthetic, don’t even think about going with semi-metallic unless you like brake noise), and turn (or replace) the rotors unless they are smooth and true (if you have any pulsation in the pedal or steering wheel when applying the brakes, you need to address the rotors).
Finally, re-assemble with a LOT of high-temp silicone grease. Personally, I like the AGS/Sil-Glyde for slide-pins, and I load it up until it cannot take anymore. Always replace the plastic/rubber caps to keep water/road-grime out of the slide pin area. I think Eric uses a similar 3M product, but regardless you MUST use a hi-temp silicone based product. Do NOT use any petroleum/molly grease (i.e. do NOT use wheel-bearing grease).
Where the pads touch the caliper bracket (i.e. the pad ears), I put a little brake grease, too. For this, I prefer the Permetex Ultra (Purple stuff.) It is a lot thicker, but tolerates a LOT more heat than the AGS/Sil-Glyde, but a lot of forum posts indicate this stuff washes off easier, too. Either way, if you use any grease on the pads themselves, you need to use the highest temp grease you can get.
****************************************
Finally, you need to do a break in process.
1. Pump up your pedal until everything is nice and seated.
2. Start the vehicle
3. Pump it some more (now you have power assist).
4. Slowly back up (or pull forward) and verify you have working brakes.5. Slow the vehicle down from 10 to 15 to about 5 mph about five (5) times… (AVOID Stopping)
6. Same thing as above but from about 20 to 25 to 10 mph about five times… (AVOID Stopping)
7. Same again but from 30 to 40 to around 15 mph about five (5) times… (AVOID Stopping)
8. Same again but from 45 to 55 mph to around 20 to 25 mph about five (5) times (AVOID stopping)
9. Same thing but from 60 to 70 mph to about 30 mph about five (5) times (AVOID stopping)
10. Repeat #9
The key is you do NOT want to stop with hot pads on the rotors because it makes a spot that once cooled you may feel as a pulsation. If you need to stop, slow-down to about 5 to 10 MPH then use the parking brake to come to a complete stop, but do NOT have the brake pedal down (except just enough to light your brake lights). If you do this procedure (or similar), you should have a nice, shiny brake rotor that looks like a mirror, has brake pad friction material embedded on it, and your pads should match up perfectly WITHOUT being glazed. You will have perfect, smooth feeling brakes that are truly awesome and last at least 30,000 miles (probably more like 60,000). banana:
It indicates the calipers are sticking a bit… Not an end of the world safety situation, but it is something you should look into.
Disassemble the caliper bracket, and remove all the slide pins… presumably, you already did this or you wouldn’t be showing us your brake pads. Clean everything with plenty of brake cleaning solvent – heck, I often bring everything to the kitchen sink and wash it in dish soap/degreaser… then dry it.
Regardless, replace the pads with OEM (or OEM-Like material – don’t go cheap here. If OEM is synthetic, don’t even think about going with semi-metallic unless you like brake noise), and turn (or replace) the rotors unless they are smooth and true (if you have any pulsation in the pedal or steering wheel when applying the brakes, you need to address the rotors).
Finally, re-assemble with a LOT of high-temp silicone grease. Personally, I like the AGS/Sil-Glyde for slide-pins, and I load it up until it cannot take anymore. Always replace the plastic/rubber caps to keep water/road-grime out of the slide pin area. I think Eric uses a similar 3M product, but regardless you MUST use a hi-temp silicone based product. Do NOT use any petroleum/molly grease (i.e. do NOT use wheel-bearing grease).
Where the pads touch the caliper bracket (i.e. the pad ears), I put a little brake grease, too. For this, I prefer the Permetex Ultra (Purple stuff.) It is a lot thicker, but tolerates a LOT more heat than the AGS/Sil-Glyde, but a lot of forum posts indicate this stuff washes off easier, too. Either way, if you use any grease on the pads themselves, you need to use the highest temp grease you can get.
****************************************
Finally, you need to do a break in process.
1. Pump up your pedal until everything is nice and seated.
2. Start the vehicle
3. Pump it some more (now you have power assist).
4. Slowly back up (or pull forward) and verify you have working brakes.5. Slow the vehicle down from 10 to 15 to about 5 mph about five (5) times… (AVOID Stopping)
6. Same thing as above but from about 20 to 25 to 10 mph about five times… (AVOID Stopping)
7. Same again but from 30 to 40 to around 15 mph about five (5) times… (AVOID Stopping)
8. Same again but from 45 to 55 mph to around 20 to 25 mph about five (5) times (AVOID stopping)
9. Same thing but from 60 to 70 mph to about 30 mph about five (5) times (AVOID stopping)
10. Repeat #9
The key is you do NOT want to stop with hot pads on the rotors because it makes a spot that once cooled you may feel as a pulsation. If you need to stop, slow-down to about 5 to 10 MPH then use the parking brake to come to a complete stop, but do NOT have the brake pedal down (except just enough to light your brake lights). If you do this procedure (or similar), you should have a nice, shiny brake rotor that looks like a mirror, has brake pad friction material embedded on it, and your pads should match up perfectly WITHOUT being glazed. You will have perfect, smooth feeling brakes that are truly awesome and last at least 30,000 miles (probably more like 60,000). banana:
What is the vehicle?
1. Does the car stop well? (if YES, great)
2. Do you feel any pulsations in the brakes? (If yes,you will need to turn or replace the rotors depending upon their thickness)
3. Do you have at least 3MM of pad material left (if 2MM or thinner, you must immediately get new pads to be road legal)
4. Are the brakes quiet? (if they chirp occasionally i.e cold mornings… no worries, but if they are LOUD or grind, you need your brakes service).
5. Is the rotor mostly smooth? (If they are mostly smooth, great. If they are terribly rough, they will need to be turned/replaced and the pads lapped/replaced)
6. How thick is the rotor? (If the rotor is too thin, it cannot be turned).
What is the vehicle?
1. Does the car stop well? (if YES, great)
2. Do you feel any pulsations in the brakes? (If yes,you will need to turn or replace the rotors depending upon their thickness)
3. Do you have at least 3MM of pad material left (if 2MM or thinner, you must immediately get new pads to be road legal)
4. Are the brakes quiet? (if they chirp occasionally i.e cold mornings… no worries, but if they are LOUD or grind, you need your brakes service).
5. Is the rotor mostly smooth? (If they are mostly smooth, great. If they are terribly rough, they will need to be turned/replaced and the pads lapped/replaced)
6. How thick is the rotor? (If the rotor is too thin, it cannot be turned).
I will have to make a video of it and post it on Youtube for you all… It isn’t nearly as complicated as the video below.
I am tired of watching videos like this one:
This guy has NO idea how to operate a simple impact wrench. All you do is push/hold the trigger, but apparently, he hasn’t figured that out and does a bunch of short bursts… then goes back around to each lug nut hitting them twice… Crazy.
I will have to make a video of it and post it on Youtube for you all… It isn’t nearly as complicated as the video below.
I am tired of watching videos like this one:
This guy has NO idea how to operate a simple impact wrench. All you do is push/hold the trigger, but apparently, he hasn’t figured that out and does a bunch of short bursts… then goes back around to each lug nut hitting them twice… Crazy.
Fair enough. I was just using an analogy explaining that venting a little R134a though illegal (don’t do it), isn’t worse than using a chemical duster.
I would recommend compressed air for dusting anyway not to mention it would be pretty tough to get the contents from a computer duster into a vehicle’s AC without some crazy puncture clamp.
Chemical dusters CAN make you sick (possibly kill) if you huff them; hence, the bittering agent. That said, ordinary use of a computer duster for keyboards, motherboard cleaning, etc. should not cause this even when used indoors. Most automotive work is done either outdoors or in a well ventilated garage, so it is even less of a concern.
Don’t vent it, but if you were outdoors, venting a pound of refrigerant wouldn’t likely cause harm to the mechanic.
Either way the OP has no concerns; since, his system apparently is empty anyway. Hopefully he successfully repairs his entire AC system and leak checks it (under vacuum)
Fair enough. I was just using an analogy explaining that venting a little R134a though illegal (don’t do it), isn’t worse than using a chemical duster.
I would recommend compressed air for dusting anyway not to mention it would be pretty tough to get the contents from a computer duster into a vehicle’s AC without some crazy puncture clamp.
Chemical dusters CAN make you sick (possibly kill) if you huff them; hence, the bittering agent. That said, ordinary use of a computer duster for keyboards, motherboard cleaning, etc. should not cause this even when used indoors. Most automotive work is done either outdoors or in a well ventilated garage, so it is even less of a concern.
Don’t vent it, but if you were outdoors, venting a pound of refrigerant wouldn’t likely cause harm to the mechanic.
Either way the OP has no concerns; since, his system apparently is empty anyway. Hopefully he successfully repairs his entire AC system and leak checks it (under vacuum)
Stay away from Dust-Off though when working with Car Air Conditioners…
It contains 1,1-Difluoroethane
Also Known as R-152a
It IS more reactive and corrosive as far as I know, a little less stable; ultimately, it is more flammable though realistically it has a very similar temp/pressure curve, so it would almost certainly work.
Stay away from Dust-Off though when working with Car Air Conditioners…
It contains 1,1-Difluoroethane
Also Known as R-152a
It IS more reactive and corrosive as far as I know, a little less stable; ultimately, it is more flammable though realistically it has a very similar temp/pressure curve, so it would almost certainly work.
Honestly though the HFC-134a stuff is not as bad as people make it out to be!!!
Take my current car, a 2008 Mazda 3. It has 1.1 pounds of R-134a (AKA 17.6oz of the stuff). If I were to release it ALL into the atmosphere, somehow I would be a criminal. In contrast, I could go pick-up those Dust-off or Fellows computer spray dusters and release the same stuff into the air “legally.”
The Fellows “non-flammable” Pressurized Duster (i.e. Computer/keyboard duster)… This one:
[IMG]http://assets.fellowes.com/images/products/zoom/9963101.png[/IMG]It contains: 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane
Has this for it’s MSDS:
http://images.discountofficeitems.com/pub/Master_Images/Master_PDF_Files/FEL99790_MSDS.PDFThat’s right boys and girls… 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane
That is analogous to:
Dymel 134a
Forane 134a
Genetron 134a
HFA-134a
HFC-134a
R-134a
Suva 134aOkay, so what’s the difference between:
[IMG]http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/394/394/467/467394394_860.jpg[/IMG]and
[IMG]http://assets.fellowes.com/images/products/zoom/9963101.png[/IMG]
Answer: TAX (paid to our government mafia friends in Washington) :whistle: