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The air filter, eh?
Trying to source another stock one. I’ll see about idling it with the cone off to see if it changes. Could temporarily pull the alt belt, too- not a bad start.
The air filter, eh?
Trying to source another stock one. I’ll see about idling it with the cone off to see if it changes. Could temporarily pull the alt belt, too- not a bad start.
The cat is bad in that the honeycomb inside is half gone- you can see right through the thing. I had it out when replacing another section that rusted through and wasnt worth putting back on after the engine swap, and noted it was junk. Ordered a new one, but never got to installing it…
I have not done anything with ignition yet- the plugs/wires are NGK with less than 10k miles on them, the dizzy was rebuilt with the engine and the cap/rotor replaced with the rebuild as well, all less than 5k ago. The coil was put in used in 2009, its some sort of “performance” coil I picked up cheap on a forum.
I watched the noise-finding video but unfortunately none of these options are working so well for me- the high pitched sound passes through any hearing protection I own, so it’s hard to place where it’s coming from.
What poking around DID do is remind me that the fuel pressure regulator on this thing is effectively a junk yard pull. Mine went bad during the swap so I replaced it with one from a parts car. Napa didn’t have them and the dealer wanted 150+ for one- so I took that chance. Then I wound up having to buy some crazy crush washer from the dealer, and after a five day wait they sent the wrong one. I wound up improvising- and this could very well be the source of this horrible sound.here’s a picture I found online of the factory washer that came off:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img690/2127/img4335pa.jpg
(crush washer, I tried re-using mine but it didnt hold- never re-use crush washers!)
and here’s one of my “improvised” washer:
http://images.netman86.com/projects/cars/mr2/4age%20rebuild/2013-10-22%2017.08.25.jpgI never have problems with performance or cold starts, so I forgot that I had done this. The only thing it could be doing is potentially limiting the amount of fuel coming through this fitting. I *think* that’s the return line, so that could potentially be causing all sorts of strange issues.
The cat is bad in that the honeycomb inside is half gone- you can see right through the thing. I had it out when replacing another section that rusted through and wasnt worth putting back on after the engine swap, and noted it was junk. Ordered a new one, but never got to installing it…
I have not done anything with ignition yet- the plugs/wires are NGK with less than 10k miles on them, the dizzy was rebuilt with the engine and the cap/rotor replaced with the rebuild as well, all less than 5k ago. The coil was put in used in 2009, its some sort of “performance” coil I picked up cheap on a forum.
I watched the noise-finding video but unfortunately none of these options are working so well for me- the high pitched sound passes through any hearing protection I own, so it’s hard to place where it’s coming from.
What poking around DID do is remind me that the fuel pressure regulator on this thing is effectively a junk yard pull. Mine went bad during the swap so I replaced it with one from a parts car. Napa didn’t have them and the dealer wanted 150+ for one- so I took that chance. Then I wound up having to buy some crazy crush washer from the dealer, and after a five day wait they sent the wrong one. I wound up improvising- and this could very well be the source of this horrible sound.here’s a picture I found online of the factory washer that came off:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img690/2127/img4335pa.jpg
(crush washer, I tried re-using mine but it didnt hold- never re-use crush washers!)
and here’s one of my “improvised” washer:
http://images.netman86.com/projects/cars/mr2/4age%20rebuild/2013-10-22%2017.08.25.jpgI never have problems with performance or cold starts, so I forgot that I had done this. The only thing it could be doing is potentially limiting the amount of fuel coming through this fitting. I *think* that’s the return line, so that could potentially be causing all sorts of strange issues.
Well I got home today and it’s a beautiful afternoon- almost 50F outside, and sunny!
backed into the driveway and the idle was low and steady. No hesitation problems on the way home, but it was making that horrible screeching sound.
I dont know if I mentioned this, but it only does it under no load- if you rev it, it will go away until the rpm levels off- so it’ll make the same sound at 2k rpm, but not when transitioning from 800 to 2000- and it wont do it when driving down the road at any rpm unless my foot is so light on the gas that it’s not accelerating OR decelerating. It might do it a bit when decelerating, but not that I can tell when driving.
Anyhow, I took my small propane torch and stuck it “on” with no flame, and cracked it wide open until I could feel propane coming out- and smell it. Went around all the vac lines, the air filter, the MAF, the intake manifold and everything that connects to it with no change whatsoever. When I put the propane right up to the cone filter (Ensuring propane is getting into the airflow), the idle picks up a bit- but that’s it.
One other symptom that may or may not be related is a shudder. I forget about this one since its very rare- but honestly pretty consistent. The trigger is long highway drives. After about 45 minutes at highway speed, when I’m real light on the throttle (maintaining a little below 65, for example), the thing will kick- almost like a misfire. To me, it feels like its cutting off its own fuel for an instant. Then it kicks right back in.
I had this same problem with another MAF sensor as it was on its way out, right after the rebuild. This sensor is the known working one from my old engine- but might be slowly failing too.
I can’t smell fuel in the exhaust, and I know the cat is bad- I have a new one but wont replace it until I know the engine is running right.Well I got home today and it’s a beautiful afternoon- almost 50F outside, and sunny!
backed into the driveway and the idle was low and steady. No hesitation problems on the way home, but it was making that horrible screeching sound.
I dont know if I mentioned this, but it only does it under no load- if you rev it, it will go away until the rpm levels off- so it’ll make the same sound at 2k rpm, but not when transitioning from 800 to 2000- and it wont do it when driving down the road at any rpm unless my foot is so light on the gas that it’s not accelerating OR decelerating. It might do it a bit when decelerating, but not that I can tell when driving.
Anyhow, I took my small propane torch and stuck it “on” with no flame, and cracked it wide open until I could feel propane coming out- and smell it. Went around all the vac lines, the air filter, the MAF, the intake manifold and everything that connects to it with no change whatsoever. When I put the propane right up to the cone filter (Ensuring propane is getting into the airflow), the idle picks up a bit- but that’s it.
One other symptom that may or may not be related is a shudder. I forget about this one since its very rare- but honestly pretty consistent. The trigger is long highway drives. After about 45 minutes at highway speed, when I’m real light on the throttle (maintaining a little below 65, for example), the thing will kick- almost like a misfire. To me, it feels like its cutting off its own fuel for an instant. Then it kicks right back in.
I had this same problem with another MAF sensor as it was on its way out, right after the rebuild. This sensor is the known working one from my old engine- but might be slowly failing too.
I can’t smell fuel in the exhaust, and I know the cat is bad- I have a new one but wont replace it until I know the engine is running right.I had never heard of these before this thread- something I’ll be looking into, for sure.
Up here I wind up replacing my exhaust every 5 years or so, and I’ve never seen a set of brake lines make it to 10 (When run outside the chassis)- Then as soon as you go to replace a section that’s rusted through and leaking, the whole line shatters and needs to be replaced.
I’ve taken to just replacing the brake lines in pairs, entirely when there’s a leak. They only sell steel ones at the local napa, so I assumed that was all there was. The coated (green) ones last longer than the black ones, but I suspect they’re a thicker steel.
I’ll make a point to look into local inspection code on brake lines- now I’m wondering if SS tube (used in hvac) would pass.
If anyone has first hand experience with this copper stuff, I’d love to know how it holds up to the north.
I had never heard of these before this thread- something I’ll be looking into, for sure.
Up here I wind up replacing my exhaust every 5 years or so, and I’ve never seen a set of brake lines make it to 10 (When run outside the chassis)- Then as soon as you go to replace a section that’s rusted through and leaking, the whole line shatters and needs to be replaced.
I’ve taken to just replacing the brake lines in pairs, entirely when there’s a leak. They only sell steel ones at the local napa, so I assumed that was all there was. The coated (green) ones last longer than the black ones, but I suspect they’re a thicker steel.
I’ll make a point to look into local inspection code on brake lines- now I’m wondering if SS tube (used in hvac) would pass.
If anyone has first hand experience with this copper stuff, I’d love to know how it holds up to the north.
Up here in Maine they use something called calcium chloride on the roads instead of salt or sand.
I never did find a proper study on the stuff (Perhaps I’ll have to write my own…) but I’ve concluded that it should be outlawed. Sears missed the jacking point and put a dent in the rocker panel of my toyota- a solid car from nevada that never had a spec of rust. That was less than a year ago- today there’s a hole there I can fit my boot through.
I had considered sealing that windshield from the inside- but all that will accomplish is trapping this evil stuff between the glass and the frame- within a few years it will not only be leaking again, but there won’t be any frame left to re-mount glass to!
edit:
just adding some pictures I took when looking at it yesterday
http://images.netman86.com/projects/cars/Blue%20Honda/Moisture_Problem/gallery.phpUp here in Maine they use something called calcium chloride on the roads instead of salt or sand.
I never did find a proper study on the stuff (Perhaps I’ll have to write my own…) but I’ve concluded that it should be outlawed. Sears missed the jacking point and put a dent in the rocker panel of my toyota- a solid car from nevada that never had a spec of rust. That was less than a year ago- today there’s a hole there I can fit my boot through.
I had considered sealing that windshield from the inside- but all that will accomplish is trapping this evil stuff between the glass and the frame- within a few years it will not only be leaking again, but there won’t be any frame left to re-mount glass to!
edit:
just adding some pictures I took when looking at it yesterday
http://images.netman86.com/projects/cars/Blue%20Honda/Moisture_Problem/gallery.phpThanks.
This old car came from Nevada, and was moved to Maine by me in 2009. The silicone air lines are the only ones available for this car in an easy to install kit, so that’s what I went with- just about all of them were dry rotted and falling to pieces when I tore her apart. That cone filter was an afterthought- the original air box was better, but required a special shaped air hose toyota wanted $200 for- not cool!
I’ll try and find some time for a quick test with propane after work tomorrow, and will update here. That noise is killing me!
Thanks.
This old car came from Nevada, and was moved to Maine by me in 2009. The silicone air lines are the only ones available for this car in an easy to install kit, so that’s what I went with- just about all of them were dry rotted and falling to pieces when I tore her apart. That cone filter was an afterthought- the original air box was better, but required a special shaped air hose toyota wanted $200 for- not cool!
I’ll try and find some time for a quick test with propane after work tomorrow, and will update here. That noise is killing me!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=92954]You’re gonna love Friday’s video. That said, the bases are pretty much covered here. I will add that you should not attempt to remove the windshield on your own. It requires special tools and if you don’t have them, it makes the job very difficult.
Keep us posted on what you find.[/quote]
It’s not the cowl- its the windshield. It’s coming in on the right (and left) and running down the A pillars.
I was tempted to pull that glass myself, but it looks like a huge PITA to put back in. I know I had pulled a quote for a replacement, the glass is all pitted anyhow. I think this just became someone elses problem!
unfortunately I just pulled up the quote, and its almost $300.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=92954]You’re gonna love Friday’s video. That said, the bases are pretty much covered here. I will add that you should not attempt to remove the windshield on your own. It requires special tools and if you don’t have them, it makes the job very difficult.
Keep us posted on what you find.[/quote]
It’s not the cowl- its the windshield. It’s coming in on the right (and left) and running down the A pillars.
I was tempted to pull that glass myself, but it looks like a huge PITA to put back in. I know I had pulled a quote for a replacement, the glass is all pitted anyhow. I think this just became someone elses problem!
unfortunately I just pulled up the quote, and its almost $300.
