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After reviewing this video “No code misfire” from “Real Fixes Real Fast”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR32Lpt623M&feature=player_profilepage
I went back to the repair shop (under warrantee) asking them to reconnect the computer, and asked them to look at Mode 06, test ID 53. The first time they scanned the truck, I stood back and let them do their routine, this time I hovered over his shoulder and told him what I wanted to see. Guess what, $53 showed misfires on one cylinder.
Replaced the COP and the plug, and that fixed it.
I am one happy camper!
Ok, update.
I found a shop that will hook up their high dollar Verus computer for $40. They found nothing out of spec, which was disappointing.
For another $40 they pulled all the COPs and plugs, and found nothing out of whack except I’d been too generous with the dielectric grease. I thought second opinion (other than my own, plus they know what their doing) was worth $40.
It actually did seem to run better, but had a slight “from dead stop” hesitation. The mechanic suggested the engine mount can simulate a takeoff miss, but those and the transmission mounts looked ok. The truck always starts right up, no prolonged cranking, good engine pickup.
Later that night the truck returned to its old pattern, once warm 45-to-55 bucking with occasional misfires at lower speeds.
Any idea where I might look next?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
2k RPM should be enough C8-)It is irregular, but misses reliably at higher RPMs. I will give it a go.
On a related note, I would like to pick up a PC based scanner – it might help in situations like this. Anyone seen a site where they review the scanners? All software based scanner reviews I have found are outdated.
Poster pcmdjason had a nice review but I would like one with vendor support.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
That will explain why your having a hard time finding the miss.
Do you have any buddies who can help you?
Are we talking just a higher RPM? I can do that.
Under Idle, it’s just me.
I cleaned the IAC and checked the TPS sensor with a VOM (the resistance decrements smoothly), and removed the forward portion of the throttle body using carburetor cleaner on the ports and hoses in the rear of the throttle body. I also used the cleaner on the vacuum hoses to see if I could pick up a leak (slick idea by the way).
I did the “power balance test”. The changes are so subtitle on this test I’m not sure I can tell the difference. Injector enable/disable is slightly noticeable, but unplugging the COPs results in a barely perceptible change.
Still missing. Wishing there was a way to better test to COPs.
Any brand of scanner in particular? A first time buyer can loose one’s shirt!
I was out of town and had to have a mechanic scan and replace a COP, so I replaced all 8 when I returned, about 3 months ago.
The injectors came off for cleaning last week, and I set a stethoscope on them this afternoon, they all sound normal, clicking with a consistent rhythm.
One thing I noted on the injector cleaning, I read that the fuel rails (schrader valve) needed to be depressurized. I was expecting a geyser from what I’d read, but it was a nonevent. Not sure if Fords run high pressure or if it bleeds off after letting it set to cool. It might be starving for fuel, I don’t know. I guess a scanner would tell me that also.
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