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I tested the ICM off of the car today, and it tested good. Looking over the wiring diagram caused me to wonder if I’m receiving the low res signal from the distributor. It doesn’t look like I’m getting one, but I couldn’t access everything very well so I went ahead and pulled the optispark. Now I’m looking to rig up a way to test for the signals with the optispark off of the car.
Okay, so I think I’m beginning to understand this optispark system finally. I’m trying to determine whether I’m going about this correctly from a diagnostic perspective or if I’m misunderstanding how this is supposed to work. I’m attaching a couple pics to hopefully explain what I’m talking about. The first is the wiring diagram for distributor/ignition system. The second is my hand drawn diagram reflecting my questions and assumptions.
Now the questions, working from the bottom of the hand drawn diagram up.
1) I’m supposed to see a square wave pulse on the low resolution signal coming from the optispark, correct?
2) The white wire running from B5 on the PCM to port B on the ICM should be pulsing on and off ground when the engine is cranking, correct?
3) I could simply apply ground to port B on the ICM and should then be able to read ground on port D of the same?
4) If power is applied to the coil, and thus to the ICM, when it is not switched to ground, should I read power on port D?
Hopefully my questions don’t make me look too foolish. Just trying to understand the way this system is supposed to work so I can tell what’s going on with this thing. Thanks for any help.
Okay, so it’s been a while since I updated my progress. We got a new battery, and I reset the VATS system so that I have no more security issues. Now I’m simply dealing with a crank-no start-no spark. Checked for spark at the coil, wasn’t getting any. My dad picked up a new coil because I figured that the ignition module and coil came as one assembly. I now know that they don’t.
So I’m asking to see if my mind is in the right place. With key off, the power supply to the coil is switched to ground. Key on, not cranking the power supply wire turns to 1.5v. That 1.5v is the distributed to the control module, but I’m still not getting spark at the coil. Even with the replacement coil on there.
What steps do I need to take to complete the diagnosis?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the info Eric. I should probably clarify that I’m entirely focused on fixing the VATS issue right now and will address the other issues once I get it straightened out.
A quick update on where I am.
The car needs a new battery, as I can’t even get the current one to hold a charge long enough to try turning the car over more than once.
My dad was unconvinced of that fact and wanted to try trickle charging the battery again before buying one. It’s his money, and I understand, so we tried again today after he put it on the charger some time this weekend, and had the same result. I’m hoping that I was just getting some weird problems due to low battery voltage and with a fresh battery we won’t have any VATS issues.
I’ll keep posting as I progress through it.
Thought I should add that this is a d16y7 and manual transmission.
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I knew it had to be too good to be true. Today I had no problems from the car on my morning commute, but on my way home problems started again. The first problem this time was that I had no sound. The radio was on and I could adjust volume but the speakers weren’t doing anything. After about 5 minutes, the speakers started working again (I have had no problem with them thus far). As I was getting close to home, the car began running rough. At 3000 rpm it was rough and it wouldn’t rev past 3500, like it had hit the rev limiter. As I tried to accelerate, it would eventually smooth out again and be fine for a minute or so, and then the issue would return. Also, whenever it went from load to idle, the rpm would drop almost to the point of stalling and hold there for a couple seconds before it got bumped back to normal. It didn’t throw a code until I got back home, about 10 minutes after the issues started. I haven’t had it checked yet (still waiting on my scan tool to get here) but I’m pretty sure it will be the same code as before since the issues are the same.
So I know the sensor is good, how should I proceed?
I knew it had to be too good to be true. Today I had no problems from the car on my morning commute, but on my way home problems started again. The first problem this time was that I had no sound. The radio was on and I could adjust volume but the speakers weren’t doing anything. After about 5 minutes, the speakers started working again (I have had no problem with them thus far). As I was getting close to home, the car began running rough. At 3000 rpm it was rough and it wouldn’t rev past 3500, like it had hit the rev limiter. As I tried to accelerate, it would eventually smooth out again and be fine for a minute or so, and then the issue would return. Also, whenever it went from load to idle, the rpm would drop almost to the point of stalling and hold there for a couple seconds before it got bumped back to normal. It didn’t throw a code until I got back home, about 10 minutes after the issues started. I haven’t had it checked yet (still waiting on my scan tool to get here) but I’m pretty sure it will be the same code as before since the issues are the same.
So I know the sensor is good, how should I proceed?
Well, today I put the ckf back in then put everything back together. When I finished, I started the car up and noticed that it was not running nearly as rough as it had been before. Obviously the computer reset so no codes were being shown. I let it warm up and still no codes and sounding good so I took it for a spin. I’m happy to report that I got no misfires or anything out of the ordinary. No codes thrown, and I’m pretty pleased.
I’m thinking that whenever I set the timing, it tripped the computer up somehow and the reset solved the issue. Maybe not. I don’t know.
I won’t call it closed until I drive it for a few days, but it seems like everything is resolved.
Well, today I put the ckf back in then put everything back together. When I finished, I started the car up and noticed that it was not running nearly as rough as it had been before. Obviously the computer reset so no codes were being shown. I let it warm up and still no codes and sounding good so I took it for a spin. I’m happy to report that I got no misfires or anything out of the ordinary. No codes thrown, and I’m pretty pleased.
I’m thinking that whenever I set the timing, it tripped the computer up somehow and the reset solved the issue. Maybe not. I don’t know.
I won’t call it closed until I drive it for a few days, but it seems like everything is resolved.
Alright, thank you all for your advice. The problem ended up being the empty space between my ears. I finally retraced my steps on the distributor and rotated the input shaft 180 degrees and the car started right up.
Now though, I have a rough running engine with codes. I checked the timing and it is right where it is supposed to be. I had the codes pulled at AutoZone since I don’t have a code reader, and these are the codes they pulled:
P0170 – fuel trim bank 1
P0172 – fuel system too rich bank 1
P0336 – range/performance problem in CKP sensor circuitI wasn’t sure how to proceed, so I pulled the CKP and tested it. It tested correctly so now my question is how do I test the circuit that it operates on? Also, is it safe to assume that these codes are related or should I treat them separately? I know that the P0170 and P0172 are related (since there isn’t a P0170 code listed for Hondas, I’m guessing the generic code reader just pulled it along with the P0172), but could the problem causing the P0336 also be causing P0172?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Alright, thank you all for your advice. The problem ended up being the empty space between my ears. I finally retraced my steps on the distributor and rotated the input shaft 180 degrees and the car started right up.
Now though, I have a rough running engine with codes. I checked the timing and it is right where it is supposed to be. I had the codes pulled at AutoZone since I don’t have a code reader, and these are the codes they pulled:
P0170 – fuel trim bank 1
P0172 – fuel system too rich bank 1
P0336 – range/performance problem in CKP sensor circuitI wasn’t sure how to proceed, so I pulled the CKP and tested it. It tested correctly so now my question is how do I test the circuit that it operates on? Also, is it safe to assume that these codes are related or should I treat them separately? I know that the P0170 and P0172 are related (since there isn’t a P0170 code listed for Hondas, I’m guessing the generic code reader just pulled it along with the P0172), but could the problem causing the P0336 also be causing P0172?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I haven’t checked the actual fuel pressure, but I am no longer smelling gas. Someone else recommended putting a very small amount of oil into the cylinder through the plug hole and manually cycle the engine to distribute the oil. This started to help and I thought it was going to start, but it never would start. I put new plugs in and still it wouldn’t start.
I haven’t checked the actual fuel pressure, but I am no longer smelling gas. Someone else recommended putting a very small amount of oil into the cylinder through the plug hole and manually cycle the engine to distribute the oil. This started to help and I thought it was going to start, but it never would start. I put new plugs in and still it wouldn’t start.
Alright, I’ve been trying again today. First, I reinserted the plugs, double checked connectors and confirmed that the the correct firing order was running from the distributor to the plugs. Next, I began trying to start in clear flood mode and wasn’t getting anywhere. I adjusted the timing several times seeing if it would help and it did not. I then checked to make sure I was getting spark and I am. Fuel pump comes on when it is supposed to, and I’m not getting any check engine codes.
It seems like it would be very coincidental if several things went wrong after replacing the valve cover gasket (not impossible, but I would find it strange) so I’m wondering if there’s something that went on during that which may be causing the issue. Can anyone think of something that might be related?
Otherwise, I’m not really sure what the problem is. I may check compression to see if something is happening there.