Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Unfortunatly you will have to pull the radio out and test the output from the radio (i use an old car speaker i replaced from my car) It sounds like either a connection is bad in the harness or the internals of the radio may be shot. If you do get output from the back of the radio, follow the wires back and check for resistance in the wires (you may need a wiring diagram) the ohm reading should be close to the speaker’s rating. easiest way is to pull a speaker from a door pannel and check the rating (usually stamped on the back of the magnet) Also disconnect that speaker and plug in a known good speaker and test for sound…
Its basically a process of elimination. I would first look at all the connections behind the radio. There you have access to all the wires related to the stereo system.
Hope this helps
You may have a point with the icm… if you say the CEL is on when theres a crank and no-start, it must mean the ECM is getting power correct? And it sounds that you drive it to a point where something starts to overheat and short out, causing the engine to stall, then when it cools off, starts working again for a short period of time.
As the others say.. check the ignition switch, but i would put my money on the icm or something going bad in the distributor… As mentioned earlier, when the car stalls, check for fuel and spark. if its no spark, poor a little bit of cold water on the distributor to cool down the icm. if it starts right after, you’ve found the problem.
if the clutch pedal is pressed in and you hear a grinding sound, your throwout bearing is toast. Sounds like you have other problems, in addition to this. As said above, check all bushings and linkages for worn/broken parts. If the throwout bearing is toast, the trans is gonna have to come out… might as well do the clutch at the same time.
I just finished replacing the oil pan gasket on my ’96 civic. Used an OEM gasket and a slight film coating of permatex on either side of the gasket to help hold the gasket in place. Snugged all bolts up, left it to cure for 24 hours, came back, torqued all bolts to spec….not a drop of oil since.
I did this same procedure to my aunt’s ’84 rx7 last june which gets driven pretty hard (rotary engines seem very happy running between 5-8 k rpm T)) and it gets very hot. No leaks so far.
I always like to use gaskets whenever possible. I only use the permatex or rtv just to help hold the gasket in place while installing. As Eric said…you must allow the sealant to cure before adding oil and MAKE SURE the surfaces are clean of all residue. (i use a clean rag with acetone to remove any contaminents)
Do you know the codes for your CEL(s)? I would point more towards a faulty O2 sensor on that bank which would explain excessive fuel consumption. When’s the last time you had a tune up? I would deffinatly consider throwing a set of plugs in it if they haven’t been done in a while. An old tired plug would possibly cause a missfire. Also check the part of the coil that goes down through the valve cover for any cracks or “burnt” spots. This would be where the spark is jumping to the engine instead of the sparkplug. Also make sure you have a new/clean air filter. That could also affect your fuel economy.
Have you checked compression? Does the engine turn over normally or just “freewheel”? have you confirmed correct timing? You might have lost a timing belt, or it may have shifted a tooth or two. Take the timing covers off and make sure the indicators line up.
Does the starter actually engage? the post doesn’t seem very clear. The way i diagnosed my starter by myself was to run a jumper wire from the pos battery terminal right to the solonoid. It should turn over. If you leave the key in the “run” or “on” position, you can manually engage the starter with the jumper wire to see if it starts. If it does, then you know you have an issue with the wiring from the starter to the ignition switch.
Hope this helps
Unfortunatly those early odyssey transmissions were junk. They tend to either loose first gear, or have a VERY hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. My family had an 01 odyssey that made it to 286 000 km before the tranny went up. -it wasn’t even the clutches, turned out to be a bad main bearing, cauing the transmission to overheat and puke out its oil.
In your case, I would check the connections from that speed sensor and follow the wiring making sure there are no breaks in the wire or corrosion in the connectors. The flashing TCS and flickering D seems to point to an electrical issue, such as a weak ground. Usually, the TCS will flash when its activated when a wheel looses traction. Follow every inch of wiring from the transmission to the computer. The harness could be pinched and shorting out.
Another test is to start off in D1 and manually shift to 2, then 3, then D. See how it shifts. If it shifts normally, it is deffinatly not an internal problem. Its either a wire or sensor. If it shifts the same, I would drain a bit of the transmission oil and check the colour of it and check the bolt/magnet for exessive clutch material. If you see alot of brown/black goo on the bolt and brow/black transmission fluid, your tranny’s had it.
I’m sure there are other tests, but this should help point you in the right direction.
It might be either a poor battery terminal connection or a bad pos wire to the starter (the thick one). Take a thick pair of jumper cables (2 guage), connect ground first (neg batt terminal, other end on engine block near starter) Try to start the car now. If the problem goes away, the you have a bad ground somewhere. If not, take the jumper cable and connect one end to pos terminal and the other to the pos input on starter solonoid. MAKE SURE to not touch the pos cable against ANY metal or you will have a ton of sparks and possibly short out something. If the engine cranks normally after that, you either have poor connections or a bad starter wire. Make sure battery connections are tight and not paper thin. If you can wiggle the terminals or twist them back and forth AT ALL, you need to tighten them or replace them. (or the redneck fix is to driver a screw in between the battery post and the terminal)
Hope this helps.Good. news. Fixed the problem. It ended up being the starter cut of relay way up in the dash. Bypassed that relay and the no start issue went away. Popped a used one in from the wrecker and she runs like new!. Since I had most of the dash appart I decided to look into why the guage lights are so dim and the lack of light on the guage needles. Has anyone else had this issue? While i was at the wrecker i picked up a working dimmer switch (2$ how can you go wrong) and put it in my car. Same thing. Im wondering if the bulbs have enver been changed behind the dash and the wrong ones were put in? Is there supposed to be a light for the guage needles or are they supposed to be nearly invisible at night?
All the bulbs appear to be intact, but they seem to be quite dim. Can a fix be as simple as soldering in a smaller resistor in the dimmer switch for more power to the lights?