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I set the pressure regulator to about 110 PSI and the gauge reads about that. While I’m running the drill, the pressure drops, but I never paid much attention to see how much it drops.
It is set to rotate in the right direction. I can stop the drill’s rotation with my hand, that’s how weak it is…
I was the one who installed the wheels last, and I torqued them to 87ft-lbs, so unless they have tightened by themselves, which I don’t think is possible, then they should still be at 87ft-lbs.
Ok, so I ran tap water through the whole system, feeding in through the hot side of the rad, and out the hot side of the engine into a catch pan.
Once everything went clear, got rid of all the aluminum shavings, ran the rad dry, toped off with coolant, kept feeding coolant into the hot side of the rad till coolant came out of the hot side of the engine, sealed it off, topped it out, burped the system, and called it a day.
Went for a test drive, all is good, temprature, cabin heat, everything. Fan kicked in at the right time, everything is groovy.
Could I have done anything better? Anything I forgot?
Thanks for all your help all, much appreceated. 🙂
Yeah, so when I got the car, it had Green coolant in it, I did research, and it’s supposed to have the pink coolant in it, I can’t remember which one it was but G12 sounds right. I flushed all the green out and put the red in myself, and it’s been going ever since.
Good point on the heater core… Last november, before I put it away, I did smell a bit of sweet coming from the heater core, but I kinda closed my eyes, plugged my ears and hummed loudly. 😛
Since I didn’t have a puddle, I ignored it.
But it’s a good point, I think you’re right that if I flush it I’m gonna have a leaking heater core… :/
Is it fine to run tap water in it? Or should i really go for distilled? How badly and how quickly can calcium deposits build up?
Hey all,
Thanks for the reaponses, I really appreceate them.
I attached two pictures from inside the expansion tank to show what I was talking about.
Looking at it again, it almost looks like very fine silver glitter.
There is about half as much in the expansion tank now then their was before, since I drained it again to install the new rad.I’m going to flush the system before I fill it again and call it done, and hope it doesn’t come back.
No weird water pump noises or issues, no overheat conditions, everything is working fine. So I guess I should leave it until I actually have a problem?
I caught the crack in the rad so quick, that steam hadn’t even started pouring out of the engine, so I’m sure nothing happened there. The engine had just got up to operating temprature, and there was plenty of coolant still left in the rad when I got home and drained the rest of it. Just the expansion tank, and what was being pumped into the top of the rad in the hot side was pouring out.One note on flushing it: I’m gonna leave the topside disconnected and pour water and rad flush into the rad myself, and let the engine heat up and pump it out of the hot side into a catch pan as i pour more cold water into the rad.
Is this a bad idea?I’m more worried about particulate at this point rather than some slime or junk. 😛
Thanks again all!
Nabeel
Ok a bit of an update.
I realized I never mentioned it before, my car has a gasoline engine, and not a diesel, incase this is a factor.
I didn’t manage to find a vacuum leak, but a couple things that might help.
So I sprayed water around all the vacuum lines, the intake, the airflow meter, the throttle body and anywhere that there was a seal between the intake and the engine. Either I’m not noticing the difference in engine RPM, or there isn’t one. I didn’t hear any sucking or sizzling from water being sucked in, although there was one thing that I noticed:
My car has an Auxiliary Air regulator with a bimetallic strip on the back of the intake that’s supposed to heat up and close once the car has warmed up, but it always sounds like there is air whooshing past there. If I pinch off the line when it’s warm there is almost no difference, but when it’s cold, you can hear the idle drop.
This sounds normal to me since when I sprayed it, RPM didn’t change and there was no sizzling from water being sucked in. Am I wrong?Here’s the big thing that I noticed with the weather getting colder. When it’s cold outside, like below 10ºc (50ºF), the engine seems to run better at start up, higher idle, seems like it has less engine missing (but I’m not sure about this) and starting is easier.
Hot restarts aren’t a problem, but warm outside temps 21ºC (70ºF) seem to be the most troublesome. It still starts fine if you give it some gas before hand, but it’s fuel injected so I don’t think I should need to do this.
One other side note
The engine, once it’s warm, or in the summer, idles very low, it doesn’t stall, but the idle is (according to the Tach) at about 400 rpm at times. (This seems to be temperature dependant again, the colder the engine, the higher the RPM, then it kinda bottoms out at warm normal running engine, then if you get the engine really warm, like by driving down the highway for a long period of time, then the engine will idle higher a bit.)Gaahh!!! So many symptoms with so many different possible causes.
Can water be getting into the fuel system causing the misses, and the rest (burning rich, low/inconsistent RPM, hard to start at times) just be up to the bad O2 sensor?
Maybe I should just post a video of it running… that might explain more…
Yeah, I think I’ll do that and post back again.
Ok a bit of an update.
I realized I never mentioned it before, my car has a gasoline engine, and not a diesel, incase this is a factor.
I didn’t manage to find a vacuum leak, but a couple things that might help.
So I sprayed water around all the vacuum lines, the intake, the airflow meter, the throttle body and anywhere that there was a seal between the intake and the engine. Either I’m not noticing the difference in engine RPM, or there isn’t one. I didn’t hear any sucking or sizzling from water being sucked in, although there was one thing that I noticed:
My car has an Auxiliary Air regulator with a bimetallic strip on the back of the intake that’s supposed to heat up and close once the car has warmed up, but it always sounds like there is air whooshing past there. If I pinch off the line when it’s warm there is almost no difference, but when it’s cold, you can hear the idle drop.
This sounds normal to me since when I sprayed it, RPM didn’t change and there was no sizzling from water being sucked in. Am I wrong?Here’s the big thing that I noticed with the weather getting colder. When it’s cold outside, like below 10ºc (50ºF), the engine seems to run better at start up, higher idle, seems like it has less engine missing (but I’m not sure about this) and starting is easier.
Hot restarts aren’t a problem, but warm outside temps 21ºC (70ºF) seem to be the most troublesome. It still starts fine if you give it some gas before hand, but it’s fuel injected so I don’t think I should need to do this.
One other side note
The engine, once it’s warm, or in the summer, idles very low, it doesn’t stall, but the idle is (according to the Tach) at about 400 rpm at times. (This seems to be temperature dependant again, the colder the engine, the higher the RPM, then it kinda bottoms out at warm normal running engine, then if you get the engine really warm, like by driving down the highway for a long period of time, then the engine will idle higher a bit.)Gaahh!!! So many symptoms with so many different possible causes.
Can water be getting into the fuel system causing the misses, and the rest (burning rich, low/inconsistent RPM, hard to start at times) just be up to the bad O2 sensor?
Maybe I should just post a video of it running… that might explain more…
Yeah, I think I’ll do that and post back again.
