Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”UncleJohn” post=59943]Ok if its a huge dent I know a thousand ways to remove it, but how on earth do I get these little dents out? Bout the size of nickels… There way to small to drill and pull, too small to use suction, and its metal so heat flashing wont work either.. Any ideas?[/quote]
I have a friend who purchased parts and made a small but very strong electro-magnet for tiny hail dents in his vehicle. Since it was an electro-magnet an increase in current developed more magnetism and the dents popped out quickly all over the car.I do not know where he got the parts to make the magnet but they are fairly simple to make. After he pulled the dents, any that pulled too hard he went over with a body hammer on top of a piece of felt so as not to mar the finish. His end results were amazing!
The trick he used was to gently pop the dents back into shape using multiple tugs of the small strong magnet.
CAUTION: DISCONNECT THE VEHICLE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL BEFORE TRYING THIS. I would hate to have someone set off a sensor and deploy air bags. They can cause death or injury easily not to mention the cost of replacing an air bag.
Harbor Freight, they have a place in the world of things.
I have to admit I too have been to Harbor Freight, they have a store 2 miles from me and ocassionally I will go there and wonder around looking but rarely buy anything. The store ads catch my eye, prices are very low, but when I get in the store I start seeing things that don’t look right.
I see cheap packaging, tools with rust, and some things that look like they would not hold up to being picked up let alone used.
After looking the entire store over I may find something like latex gloves, or a buffing pad for a drill that I will spend less than $5.00 on. For $5.00 if ti works great, if not the loss is little.
As for the tools, I tend to stay far away from Harbor Freight, I had rather buy Craftsman or another brand that I know will still be in new condition after one use and will not rust right away.
I have always found you get exactly what you pay for, if you know the brand, and I know the Harbor Frieght brand.
Harbor Freight tools remind me of the tools offered during the 50’s and 60’s, some were great tools but others were junk. I’ve had enought busted knuckles in my life time to rely on poor quality tools ever again.
Harbor Freight, they have a place in the world of things.
I have to admit I too have been to Harbor Freight, they have a store 2 miles from me and ocassionally I will go there and wonder around looking but rarely buy anything. The store ads catch my eye, prices are very low, but when I get in the store I start seeing things that don’t look right.
I see cheap packaging, tools with rust, and some things that look like they would not hold up to being picked up let alone used.
After looking the entire store over I may find something like latex gloves, or a buffing pad for a drill that I will spend less than $5.00 on. For $5.00 if ti works great, if not the loss is little.
As for the tools, I tend to stay far away from Harbor Freight, I had rather buy Craftsman or another brand that I know will still be in new condition after one use and will not rust right away.
I have always found you get exactly what you pay for, if you know the brand, and I know the Harbor Frieght brand.
Harbor Freight tools remind me of the tools offered during the 50’s and 60’s, some were great tools but others were junk. I’ve had enought busted knuckles in my life time to rely on poor quality tools ever again.
WONFERFUL! Unless someone beats me to it I may catch the honor of christening the thread with a question I have been researching for a while. After many hours of searching for an answer I have yet to determine what professionals, or antique auto restorers, would do to resolve my question. 🙂 :cheer: 😉 😛 😆 :whistle: banana: banana: :whistle: 😆 😛 😉 :cheer: 🙂
WONFERFUL! Unless someone beats me to it I may catch the honor of christening the thread with a question I have been researching for a while. After many hours of searching for an answer I have yet to determine what professionals, or antique auto restorers, would do to resolve my question. 🙂 :cheer: 😉 😛 😆 :whistle: banana: banana: :whistle: 😆 😛 😉 :cheer: 🙂
As the site grows, more and more members will have various skill sets. Some of the member skills can contribute considerably in the body work area. Especially those who enjoy auto restoration and paint work. In time a section on this topic should begin filling in the blanks as questions are asked.
You have great potential on this site to develop it into one of the premiere forums for persons interested and active in auto restorations. In fact I bet most of those who visit here like to make something dull shine again, pop out those troublesome ugly dents, or fill in and refinish a rusted spot. All we lack is knowledge and encouragement most of the time, both of which are why we came here for mechanical insight. In many ways this all fits togather which makes your web site and forums so attractive for additional develepment in these areas.
As the site grows, more and more members will have various skill sets. Some of the member skills can contribute considerably in the body work area. Especially those who enjoy auto restoration and paint work. In time a section on this topic should begin filling in the blanks as questions are asked.
You have great potential on this site to develop it into one of the premiere forums for persons interested and active in auto restorations. In fact I bet most of those who visit here like to make something dull shine again, pop out those troublesome ugly dents, or fill in and refinish a rusted spot. All we lack is knowledge and encouragement most of the time, both of which are why we came here for mechanical insight. In many ways this all fits togather which makes your web site and forums so attractive for additional develepment in these areas.
Libraries do not have many things unless they have a reason to request a book or online access to data from a vendor.
Since many venfors will grant public libraries free access when requested you should ask the person at the library desk how you can make a request to have the library obtain access to the sites you desire to view. It may be as simple as filling out a short form with the contact information of AllDataPro and other similar sites. Be sure you take the contact information with you next time you visit the library so you can complete the requesting process.
Note: Some libraries have an online feature that will allow you to make the request for materials from the comfort of home. It never hurts to be familiar with you library website, take a few minutes to look for the proper forms online, it may save you a trip. You should do this even if you do not have a need for information right away, it takes time (few weeks) before materials or access is normally granted and available for patrons use.
Libraries do not have many things unless they have a reason to request a book or online access to data from a vendor.
Since many venfors will grant public libraries free access when requested you should ask the person at the library desk how you can make a request to have the library obtain access to the sites you desire to view. It may be as simple as filling out a short form with the contact information of AllDataPro and other similar sites. Be sure you take the contact information with you next time you visit the library so you can complete the requesting process.
Note: Some libraries have an online feature that will allow you to make the request for materials from the comfort of home. It never hurts to be familiar with you library website, take a few minutes to look for the proper forms online, it may save you a trip. You should do this even if you do not have a need for information right away, it takes time (few weeks) before materials or access is normally granted and available for patrons use.
[quote=”college man” post=56342]Keep us posted on your progress. ;)[/quote]
LATEST PROGRESS…
I presented a copy of the TSB to Chrysler service locally. They ask if the P2066 code was still in the computer. Unfortunately it is not, I erased it in order to allow the Check Engine Light to active again notifying us for any other reason(s). This is not a problem, now I know what causes the light to come on and getting it to reactivate is a no brainer. [b]As soon as the code and check engine light return I will take the car in for warranty service, Chrysler indicated they would cover the cost under warranty service.
[/b]
I was surprised Chrysler would cover the cost of the work, we have 117,000 miles and the car is almost 9 years old. Now I am looking at other problems that require a computer flash or other work. Chryslers must be some of the most intelligent vehicles on the road today, their computers seem to know about almost anything that can go wrong.There is a serious issue for which Chrysler has extended the warranty to 150,000 miles coverage. It is the engine sub-frame assembly that fails, from corrosion, and applies mostly to vehicles in a few northern states. We live in Florida but our car was in the Chicago area for a little over 2 years when new. Our local dealer has ask us to schedule service for this in advance so they have time to properly check our car out. This has the potential of saving us more than $3000.00 dollars in repair cost and may be a life saver.
[quote=”college man” post=56342]Keep us posted on your progress. ;)[/quote]
LATEST PROGRESS…
I presented a copy of the TSB to Chrysler service locally. They ask if the P2066 code was still in the computer. Unfortunately it is not, I erased it in order to allow the Check Engine Light to active again notifying us for any other reason(s). This is not a problem, now I know what causes the light to come on and getting it to reactivate is a no brainer. [b]As soon as the code and check engine light return I will take the car in for warranty service, Chrysler indicated they would cover the cost under warranty service.
[/b]
I was surprised Chrysler would cover the cost of the work, we have 117,000 miles and the car is almost 9 years old. Now I am looking at other problems that require a computer flash or other work. Chryslers must be some of the most intelligent vehicles on the road today, their computers seem to know about almost anything that can go wrong.There is a serious issue for which Chrysler has extended the warranty to 150,000 miles coverage. It is the engine sub-frame assembly that fails, from corrosion, and applies mostly to vehicles in a few northern states. We live in Florida but our car was in the Chicago area for a little over 2 years when new. Our local dealer has ask us to schedule service for this in advance so they have time to properly check our car out. This has the potential of saving us more than $3000.00 dollars in repair cost and may be a life saver.
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=56845]n9zn-extra is that an amateur radio extra class callsign??[/quote]
Johnbkobb, your one attentive man, yes sir it is an amateur radio extra class callsign.
At this juncture in life, electronics design is my first love, to me there is nothing more thrilling than to draw a circuit, build it, and watch it do it’s thing. Metal fabrication is a second love, the only thing I am missing is endless money. My hobby shop, the way I want it, would easily cost well over a million dollars to assemble. CNC equipment isn’t cheap and I am not wealthy.
For myself technical study and exams are fun. When others enjoy novels, or watching sports, I enjoy reading technical books cover to cover and getting hands on. This also accounts for why I took a look at a computer in the mid 1960’s, plenty of technical reading there, and after college began a computer career as a Silicon Valley pioneer. An episode that lasted until I watched companies invent mini computers and eventually personal computers. Around 2005 It got to old to be fun, now I think hobby more than career.
[b]Back to the thread…
PROOF of WORK DONE![/b]
Many of the machines used today, when working on vehicles, are capable of producing detailed repair and or diagnostic reports.Today I took our car back to a dealer for re-alignment because the stearing wheel was not correctly centered. I had brought this to their attention on the day we first had the alignment done, before and after the alignment. Unfortunately many of the mechanics had left for the day when I picked our vehicle up so I needed to return to fix the problem.
Today I ask for a copy of the diagnostic alignment report showing primary and secondary angles, not only before but also after the front and rear wheels were aligned.
What the dealer and I both discovered was a technician had previously signed off on our prior alignment without performing any alignment work or doing a very poor job. The dealers service manager was visably upset when hearing about this and thanked me for coming back in to have our car re-aligned. She told me this should never have occured, and that when she discovers dishonesty or poor performance with customers she removes it.
What you can do to help avoid this…
When asking for repairs, ask if the service equipment used can produce a vehicle repair diagnostic and ask for a copy showing before repair and after repair data so you can compare it. This will arm you with comparitave information you can question especially if it indicates no work performed or inadiquate results.If a shop or mechanic questions or refuses to provide copies of before and after diagnostic reports you may want to consider taking your vehicle elsewhere. When going in for service due to a vehicle diagnostic code registering a problem, a check engine light, or other warning, do not rely on the code or warning going away as proof of repair. Most simple diagnostic scanners can reset codes to no longer show and sometimes these problem indicators will not re-appear immediately (intermittent problems). Your best bet is a before and after diagnostic report that may show you the needed proof of work done and inform you of the present status of your vehicle as you leave. These diagnostic reports may also provide hints of future failures so be sure to ask your service manager to go over them with you, explaining anything you do not understand before leaving.
Lastly keep your diagnostic reports with your vehicle records. They may prove useful for future repairs and problem solving. Having a history of failures many times will aid in exposing a hidden problem causing related failures.
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=56845]n9zn-extra is that an amateur radio extra class callsign??[/quote]
Johnbkobb, your one attentive man, yes sir it is an amateur radio extra class callsign.
At this juncture in life, electronics design is my first love, to me there is nothing more thrilling than to draw a circuit, build it, and watch it do it’s thing. Metal fabrication is a second love, the only thing I am missing is endless money. My hobby shop, the way I want it, would easily cost well over a million dollars to assemble. CNC equipment isn’t cheap and I am not wealthy.
For myself technical study and exams are fun. When others enjoy novels, or watching sports, I enjoy reading technical books cover to cover and getting hands on. This also accounts for why I took a look at a computer in the mid 1960’s, plenty of technical reading there, and after college began a computer career as a Silicon Valley pioneer. An episode that lasted until I watched companies invent mini computers and eventually personal computers. Around 2005 It got to old to be fun, now I think hobby more than career.
[b]Back to the thread…
PROOF of WORK DONE![/b]
Many of the machines used today, when working on vehicles, are capable of producing detailed repair and or diagnostic reports.Today I took our car back to a dealer for re-alignment because the stearing wheel was not correctly centered. I had brought this to their attention on the day we first had the alignment done, before and after the alignment. Unfortunately many of the mechanics had left for the day when I picked our vehicle up so I needed to return to fix the problem.
Today I ask for a copy of the diagnostic alignment report showing primary and secondary angles, not only before but also after the front and rear wheels were aligned.
What the dealer and I both discovered was a technician had previously signed off on our prior alignment without performing any alignment work or doing a very poor job. The dealers service manager was visably upset when hearing about this and thanked me for coming back in to have our car re-aligned. She told me this should never have occured, and that when she discovers dishonesty or poor performance with customers she removes it.
What you can do to help avoid this…
When asking for repairs, ask if the service equipment used can produce a vehicle repair diagnostic and ask for a copy showing before repair and after repair data so you can compare it. This will arm you with comparitave information you can question especially if it indicates no work performed or inadiquate results.If a shop or mechanic questions or refuses to provide copies of before and after diagnostic reports you may want to consider taking your vehicle elsewhere. When going in for service due to a vehicle diagnostic code registering a problem, a check engine light, or other warning, do not rely on the code or warning going away as proof of repair. Most simple diagnostic scanners can reset codes to no longer show and sometimes these problem indicators will not re-appear immediately (intermittent problems). Your best bet is a before and after diagnostic report that may show you the needed proof of work done and inform you of the present status of your vehicle as you leave. These diagnostic reports may also provide hints of future failures so be sure to ask your service manager to go over them with you, explaining anything you do not understand before leaving.
Lastly keep your diagnostic reports with your vehicle records. They may prove useful for future repairs and problem solving. Having a history of failures many times will aid in exposing a hidden problem causing related failures.
Joefromdayton and Hokiedad4,
Can you give us a quick report of what you did on each headlight? Steps done entirely by hand, steps done with help of a drill or buffer, along with the time spent on each step?
Joefromdayton, you have done an outstanding job of restoration. I am looking at the same process soon for my truck. I once started to try this on another vehicle but gave up after having trouble removing the headlight assembly.
What would be helpful would be knowing the grits of the sanding you used and how much time you spent with each grit on one headlight.
Note: I intend on using a product called BRASSO metal polish (find this at Walmart in the home cleaning products section) which cost under $3.00 for an 8oz. bottle. I have used this before polishing scratches, some very deep, from a 2 way handheld amateur radio with great success in a short time. The radio window looked as good or better than new when done. This product works very well on many things including restoring CD’s, DVD’s, glass and plastic. If in doubt test it in a small unnoticeable area first. Bringing back a non playing DVD or CD is a breez with this product, just be careful to not go too deep into the surface.
I have also heard from a person at an auto parts store to use vegitable oil after all sanding lightly over the plastic. I assume he ment using the oil prior to buffing, he said it would help protect and brighten the new finish. He recommended going from 1000 grit to 1500, 2000, and 3000. My plans are to start with 800 grit (sand off the damage quickly), then go to 1000, 1500, 2000, finishing with 3000 grit. After this I plan on using the BRASSO during polishing with an electric drill buffer pad.
Do you think the UV coating is something that will be helpful to keep the lights in like new condition since UV penetrates the entire lens? Which kind or brand of UV coat do you recommend?
Joefromdayton and Hokiedad4,
Can you give us a quick report of what you did on each headlight? Steps done entirely by hand, steps done with help of a drill or buffer, along with the time spent on each step?
Joefromdayton, you have done an outstanding job of restoration. I am looking at the same process soon for my truck. I once started to try this on another vehicle but gave up after having trouble removing the headlight assembly.
What would be helpful would be knowing the grits of the sanding you used and how much time you spent with each grit on one headlight.
Note: I intend on using a product called BRASSO metal polish (find this at Walmart in the home cleaning products section) which cost under $3.00 for an 8oz. bottle. I have used this before polishing scratches, some very deep, from a 2 way handheld amateur radio with great success in a short time. The radio window looked as good or better than new when done. This product works very well on many things including restoring CD’s, DVD’s, glass and plastic. If in doubt test it in a small unnoticeable area first. Bringing back a non playing DVD or CD is a breez with this product, just be careful to not go too deep into the surface.
I have also heard from a person at an auto parts store to use vegitable oil after all sanding lightly over the plastic. I assume he ment using the oil prior to buffing, he said it would help protect and brighten the new finish. He recommended going from 1000 grit to 1500, 2000, and 3000. My plans are to start with 800 grit (sand off the damage quickly), then go to 1000, 1500, 2000, finishing with 3000 grit. After this I plan on using the BRASSO during polishing with an electric drill buffer pad.
Do you think the UV coating is something that will be helpful to keep the lights in like new condition since UV penetrates the entire lens? Which kind or brand of UV coat do you recommend?