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The leak would explain the stalling, surprised the garage did not find it if one hose is off.
I bought an 89 Prelude that the belt was broken on and 10 of the 16 valves were bent, head work years ago was $400. and then put it all together and fired it up. Ran fine for 4 yrs till I sold it.
I do now have the prime function back. The ignition switch was bad on the accessory side and probably was intermittent because we drove it here. So it was hard to figure that was it.
Thanks everyone for helping out, I myself will get on more and also work with others.
I think I just found out what I did. When I first started testing it running the wiring tests I thought I had a dead wire at the main relay so I repaired that and think I crossed the wrong wire with it. I will fix that and see. I would like to thank all the help I have gotten, I understand the power flow so much better now, the diagram was really helpful even better than my Helm.
OK now I just confirmed this is a Canadian car, not US. We have had it for so many years I had forgotten until I looked at the plate. This Helm still says it would cover it.
What has been confusing is at the main relay socket, key on I have 12v on pins 4, 5, and 7, key off 4 and 7. I should not have 12 v on pin 4 correct? That is the wire to the pump. This is of course not using the #s on the relay using the Helm #s.
I will check on it though yeah getting it there will not work easily. Don’t some recalls have time limits?
Thanks, I will test that after work tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for helping out. I am not getting the prime function so there is no power upon turning the key on to the pump for the 2 sec. prime. Then cranking yesterday I was not getting any power to the pump, did not test it today. I hooked the pump to the battery wire on the relay connector and then it ran. So it is strange that there is no prime at all.
Not lame at all with my son it usually is on E but is half full. The pump does run hooked up to 12 volts so it is working. Someone mentioned that the ECM controls power to it after analyzing other sensors that it is ready to start. With no codes it is hard to go from here. I have power going into and out of the relay for the pump then also at the under dash fuse there is power after that where does it go?
I agree that is why i have gone through the main relay test and the wiring into the main relay test. The switch did not fix it. I still have power at the fuel pump fuse any idea after that where the power flows? There is one connector right by the under hood fuse box and I think it flows though there though I have not located the wire yet.
I had a 2003 BMW for four years and ran it on mid range or high all the time anything less the CEL comes on. I always looked for Top Tier stations also.
The ignition switch 7P connector has no continuity there is only flow on the 5P connector, looks like an ignition switch is next.
November 1, 2015 at 11:04 pm in reply to: Honda Civic 2000 (EU1) – Stumbling Idle with Codes #843302Is the coolant full? Our 98 civic has the IACV at the top of the engine and is higher than the radiator so if it is slightly low the idle will be erratic.
It could be. Are there bubbles in the site glass? The compressor is protected from not running when the system is low so as not to seize it from lack of oil.
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