Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Thanks Rick. Can you recommend any other brands of same quality?
Also aren’t these tools hard to use in vehicle?
[quote=”451Mopar” post=178937]I think the no more than 6″ of rubber fuel line is a NHRA tech specification. Likely a good recommendation, but if your not taking the car to the race track, you could just use rubber fuel line. There are a few things to note. You need to use EFI rated fuel line, and preferably the TPFE lined type like the Gates Barricade fuel line, but this fuel line is fairly expensive. You would also want to use good hose clamps that do not cut into the outer hose.
I’m guessing you might just be mounting the fuel line with zip-ties? I would put some type of protective wrap arounf the line where it is clamped or where it may abrade the line.
If you have access to a good double flairing tool like the Eastwood one, then flares, union and hard line would be the second best option (first would be to just replace the entire line.) You might be able to make the double flairs with one of the budget flare tools after some practice, but I’m thinking it will be a real pain (time consuming) to get it done right.
The hard line with compression fittings might be OK, alot depends on the condition of the fuel line your connecting to?[/quote]Where I’d be connecting to is corrosion free the issue is about 5 feet needs to be cut out first.
What do you suggest for wrapping around the fuel line instead of zip ties?
Do I need to flare the end of the hardline before slipping fuel line over it?
Do you think a new hardline connected by small pieces of EFI fuel line would be better than all fuel hose or?
One more thing, how do I determine the size of my hardline? Do you go by outer or inner diameter?
[quote=”creativepotato” post=178918]This is complicated being that it’s your gas tank. I’d jump all hoses and clamps and find a rigged steel part to hook up. I might have interpreted it wrong. Hoses can be a secure connection. You’re only into this car for another 2 years? Hoses for the win.
Dont be worried about an inspection. If gas is rotating in the system without compression leaks, you’re golden. Hoses and clamps brotha.[/quote]
It’s not the gas tank it’s the lines from the tank to the engine but only under the car.
Why do some recommend not using anymore than 6 inches of hose though? That’s what’s making me apprehensive because I’d need to run about 5 feet of it
Would compression fittings and steel line be better? I’d like to double flare and use a union but I’ve never flared and have limited non-rust area in the vehicle so would suck to try double flaring those lines and have to cut them off if it doesn’t come out right
I’ve seen that but he runs entire length id want to splice into existing line.
I’ve read many others don’t recommend fuel hose anymore than 6 inches in length so I’m stumped
Sounds like an electrical issue as others have stated.
Possibly a power wire of some sort in a loom has chaffed causing the insulation to rub off and it could be grounding out at certain vibrations cutting power off momentarily till it works itself free and all is restored.
Run the engine and physically shake any wire harness you can see under the hood, car, inside, etc see if you can replicate it.
Also make sure fuses and relays are secure, try same test with those
I’m curious why it’s rubber and steel braided? Is that what newer cars use or just easier to bypass the oem hard lines?
Does it matter the protective cover wasn’t used in that video? I’d want to reuse mine but don’t know if I’d be able to tuck everything in there
Also do this fittings require any special tools or? I’m not familiar with anything fuel related
[quote=”college man” post=178501]Looks like a respectable repair. ;)[/quote]
Sarcasm or? Lol is it safe to just have the cables zip tied like that?