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Ok – Eric, you were right. I opened up the timing belt and voila, it has jumped a few teeth, I think 3. This is my first timing belt so please, anyone that knows, please tell me what my next steps are, and what did I do wrong? I’ve provided pictures of the three timing marks and what they currently look like. I guess right now part of my confusion is wondering do I just ignore the lines on the timing belt? In other words what I’m really looking for is alignment between the sprockets and the marks on the block or guards, etc. If that’s the case, it looks like maybe might front and rear cam shafts are off by one tooth and the bottom crankshaft is maybe 2 teeth?
Also, it seemed to me that the belt was somewhat loose on the top. I know it was tight when I put it in and I started with the rear cam shaft and worked my way to the front and then to the bottom leaving the slack where the tension pulley is so that it could take up the slack. I did pull the plunger so it seems to be functioning but maybe not?
Really appreciate any advice you guys can provide.
Bottom crankshaft timing marks
Front camshaft timing marks
Rear camshaft timing marks
Besides a name, what kind of advice are you looking for? Financial advice, layout or floor plan, what kind of tools should you purchase, what kind of services should you provide? You’re question is too vague, please be more specific.
**UPDATE** – After two hours of slowly working the tap last weekend I was able to get my camshaft threads set and cleared. The new bolt from the dealership worked great. I put everything back together and all worked fine.
Having said that I have a new concern/problem/question. After putting the car back together, I set off on a 400 mile business trip, 200 each way. I traveled about 100 miles and pulled over to get gas. Once I filled up, and started the car, I had a CEL come on along with a VSC and Trac Off light. Fortunately I was able to get to the nearby AutoZone before they closed and had them read my CEL codes, which were a P0018 and a P0019 light, indicating some possible timing issue with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0019) and the Bank 2 Sensor A (P0018). Due to time constraints I decided to continue on my way. The engine was not making any erratic noises, it was running smooth as silk and while I was fearful I may damage something I was confident that all was ok. I finally reset the codes today and they have stayed off. I checked all fluid and oil levels, had to top off coolant only. I reseated the gas cap on the night of the failure as well as today. While I have only driven around town for less than 10mi today, the lights did not come back on. Is it possible I slipped a tooth on the timing belt? If I did how would I know? Is this something you can see once you line up the marks on the timing belt and the cam shaft gears? I need to turn this car over to my son in collage but I don’t want to hand over a problem that I can’t fix from far away. Appreciate any advice. BTW – I know I could break this down to the timing belt in 30m now that I know where everything is and since I don’t have to replace the water pump and some of the other things getting to the timing belt should be relatively easy.
Thanks in advance for any advice – you guys are always great.
All great info as usual Eric and I really like the idea of putting the bolt back in the hole before using the pulley tool, albeit a late suggestion for this project. Dang, this is not a great place to make a mistake like that but one of those mistakes that won’t happen again for sure.
I’ve posted pics for everyone’s reference. One picture
Crankshaft bolt before re-threading –
Crankshaft bolt AFTER re-threading, and I attempted once to put back in the hole but didn’t want to force it –
View of Crankshaft hole from wheel well –
Close up view of CS bolt hole –
Holy cow! You’re right, that is expensive but given the alternative, might be my best option. I just jumped on Belmetric’s site, great resource. I have a question though. If my current bolt and hole are M16 x 1.5, is the time sert kit I want to get also going to be an M16 x 1.5 or should I try to go next size up? The other challenge if I go next size up is I would then have to bore my hole in my pulley bigger also. Thanks again.
Thanks much Hondaguy453. Worst case, I could rent a drill from local tool rental company, I assume. Great info and will research that option. Great info as always on this forum!
Jotmon1 – I purchased a tapered tap set, it’s the Titanium $85 set from Harbor Freight, they were the only ones that had a set in stock that could support a 16m Metric. I def verified the thread count and size, not only by lining up the tap on the old bolt, but I used the die to clean and rethread the old bolt. I did use cutting oil as well. All great suggestions, appreciate the feedback.
Thanks College Man. LOL – that is actually the video I’m using as my ‘guide’. While it’s been extremely helpful, I missed something, or the trick will be to get the right length screws at a hardware store, then I’ll be golden. Will have to search for the timing guide and cover. Thanks again.
Here’s an update, and thank you to all that replied. I have not yet had a chance to see all the way through all the videos that ETCG linked for me. I took my pictures to the local Ford dealer and we figured out that what I needed was a heater hose bypass assembly. it has several hoses and two anchors to the firewall. Unfortunately, they charged $132 at the Ford dealership. My local Autozone charged $60 and it actually looked to be a better quality. After fighting with the disassembly for almost an hour a light bulb came on. The two anchors on the firewall were impossible. One was so rusted I couldn’t get the nut off the bolt, the bolt is mounted on the firewall and no easy access to the other side from under the car. The second one was behind something else mounted on the firewall and nearly impossible to get at. The entire assembly comes out of the thermostat, routes in/out of the heater core and back into the water pump on the other side of the engine. As you might see from the pictures, someone else had this issue so my failure was actually from a faulty repair of the previous owner that had use some sort of rubber goop and taped it with something akin to electrical tape. What I did instead of the hose assembly was cut off 9″ of the heater tubing and replace it with new. I had to go to Home Depot to get a 5/8″ brass spear but with that and some hose clamps I got the system back together and it’s holding water.
Now here’s my next issue. The car starts just fine but it’s running very rough, almost like there’s water in the tank or something, that kind of feeling. The CEL is coming on, and off, mostly on. I pulled the codes and it’s saying that cylinder #2 is mis-firing. This is one of the three cylinders on the back side of the engine block facing the firewall. I took it for a very short spin around the block. It’s not leaking water where I did my repair. However, it appears to be putting out a fair amount of water out of the tail pipe. Also, there was some water coming somewhere from where the water pump is as that side of the engine compartment was all wet. Additionally, the radiator fans never turned on. Now I ran it for about 10m and it was a very, very hot day, in the mid 90’s at least. I would have thought the radiator fans would have turned on but they didn’t.
My question is do you think I’m wasting my time? Again, there appears to be no water in the oil but I’m wondering if there is a crack or something that’s causing cyl #2 to act up, and take on water which is ending up at the tail pipe. My wife doesn’t want me to spend any more money on this but I don’t really want to spend the money on a new car either. Either way I’d like to at least find out what happened on this Taurs before I donate it for scrap.
Appreciate any suggestions and/or feedback.
I finally resolved this. Research on the internet did not yield any proper information to reset this, IMHO. I finally bought a Haynes manual and in there, it stated Hold the Trip/Reset button UNTIL the light goes off, which is LONGER than 10 seconds. It’s actually closer to 20s but once I held down that button until the light went out, it stayed out. Thanks to all that replied.
Thank you everyone for the replies! I wasn’t looking for increased HP but rather a long term, life of car, savings on air filters and hopefully avoiding tossing old, used filters into the landfill. I don’t mind the added complications of the cleaning and oiling, etc. I think I’ll try K&N on two of my four cars and see how things go. Will keep in mind all the valuable feedback you guys gave.
Thanks again!
UPDATE – ISSUE RESOLVED – I rode around for several weeks with this issue. I finally paid for the Torque PRO app on my Android phone which told me which ABS sensor was failing. In this case it was the Driver’s side front (I suspected it was one of the two front units). I removed the wheels, and very scientifically measured the ABS ring on each of the new rotors I had purchased. No surprise, the driver’s side ring was offset from the inside edge of the rotor MORE than the ABS ring on the passenger rotor. I removed the suspect rotor, took it back to AutoZone where they very graciously gave me a new rotor. Once I put the new rotor on (for a second time), the issue was resolved! Thanks all that replied.
LAR1969 – thanks for the quick reply. Sorry can you plz elaborate on what you mean by this (activate) “Then access the module and activate the solenoids while listening for engagement (sounds almost like a short fuel pump buz).” The short fuel pump buzzing is what I’m hearing when I first start driving until the ABS turns off.
