Forum Replies Created
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**RESOLVED** Thanks all who replied. Once I cranked down a bit harder on the nut the existing crush washer worked and it’s no longer leaking. Lesson learned, again.
I don’t think so as it was dry all the way around and up but I will check it to be sure when I replace the crush washers. As I’m a novice at some of this, I didn’t realize those were crush washers on the bango bolt. I suspect that I didn’t get them back on the same way they were prior to me replacing the caliper and thus they didn’t get seated properly. Now that I know that I will pay more attention next time but for this job probably best to just get new ones.
Thanks again
Thanks Evil-I, can always count on you for great advice. I suspect I reused the old ones. Will look to get new ones and replace and also contact the dealer as suggested by Rob781.
Thanks guys!
Thanks for your reply. It was a brand new MC, not re manufactured, so for now I’ll assume it’s not faulty. I was thinking about the braided lines in lieu of the rubber lines as an option as well. For now however, can I ‘bench bleed’ the MC without actually removing it from the car? Seems like I could remove just one line and connect the cone & hose kit that came w/the MC and bleed it again. If I did go that route, would I need to do both lines? Honestly, the rear line was a bitch to get right and I think I may have lost enough fluid in the MC during the installation that I may have introduced air into the system but not sure. On this particular MC, the rear line is actually offset by a small number of degrees so getting that angle to sit into the female receptacle for the threads to line up was extremely difficult as I wanted to be very careful NOT to cross thread anything.
As always thanks to those of you that contribute and reply to my silly questions.
Happy Holidays everyone!
*** UPDATE ***
Yesterday I finished tearing this down and there appeared to be some oil leaking out of the rear camshaft seal. I went ahead and replaced both the rear and front camshaft seals along with the timing belt. Of course, I”m not convinced this would be the source of the rust dust and I’m still not clear as to what the sources of that was. I just realized as I’m writing this, I didn’t clean the inside of the timing covers, which would have been the smart thing to do for the next time I service it. Regardless, the water pump had no signs of being bad, no leaks, etc. Additionally the pulleys also were properly spinning and not in bad shape or anything. Additionally, there were no signs of the rust dust from the block anywhere. All I can think of is it was coming from the belt? As I mentioned earlier it was the original belt so maybe Toyota manufactured belts are known for this? Don’t know, at this point, I don’t really care, it has new pulley’s, belt, water pump, and camshaft seals.
Thanks everyone for your input!
Yes – fantastic job. I’ll bet that computer cost some bank if purchased brand new. Just curious, where again is the computer located? My daughter has a 99 Accord so I want to be prepared just in case. Also, were you able to do any deeper diagnostics on the failed board? It almost looks like a contact shorted over to one of the pins of the capacitor and fried it. Usually when electrolytic capacitors go bad, they become dis-formed, as in no longer flat on the top, or they’ll literally blow their tops completely. Certainly it can vary and it’s anybody’s guess as to the cause at this point. Again, nice job.
Jobless – I’ve never had any issues with the water pump and after taking off the bracket around the pump, it actually looks very clean in context of the surrounding environment. I do believe, as you suggested, it’s probably a bearing from one of the pulleys. I’ll update you guys once I tear it down.
Thanks everyone….
Jotmon1 – I think you’re talking about the tensioner pulley just up and to the left of the crankshaft? I noticed that too and will inspect it once I remove the plunger and take off the belt. I’ll be replacing that anyways but it would be goo do know if maybe that’s my source of rust dust.
Thanks,
Yes, you’re correct, that might be the case. I know for instance, the local car parts shops can’t read ABS codes with their scanners. Also, apparently some of the ABS codes from some manufacturers can be read, others can’t, etc. For your reference, I purchased an ELM327 Blue tooth OBDII (paid roughly $20 for it on Amazon four years ago) device that let’s me use Android Apps on my Nexus7 and/or Android Phone. The app I used to read the ABS code is called Torque Pro, I think I paid $4,99 for it. Other apps I use for that ELM adapter, for free, include ELM327 Terminal, which came with the device and is pretty much useless, OBD Car Doctor (Free), OBD2 codes (which is really just a code cross reference as it implies), and ScanMaster, which is actually a decent app. Usually with a combination of those tools I can hone in on my problem.
HTH – Best of luck…
*** UPDATE — ISSUE RESOLVED ***
Just wanted to let you guys know that I was able to successfully reseat the timing belt and no errors came up. I think I’m in good shape for now. Thanks everyone for the input!Did you check the fuel pressure at the engine by depressing the shraeder valve to see if fuel is coming out? I’d do that before messing with the fuel pump.
Hey – I’m no expert but I just went through this same exact issue with my 07 F150. I had replaced the front rotors and pads, purchased from local Auto Zone store. I put up with it for about six weeks. In my case, when the ABS came on, it would eventually go off but at slow speeds, until it was off, it would pulsate the brakes. You can disconnect your sensor and see if problem persists to test. What I did is pull the ABS codes, using my ELM322 BT OBDII adapter and the Torque Pro for Android App. It told me it was the front driver’s side sensor. The problem showed up AFTER I changed brakes. Anyway, I took off my front wheels and measured the distance of the sensor to the ABS ring on the new rotors and sure enough the driver’s side sensor ring was at a different distance than the passenger rotor/ring. I exchanged the rotor at AZ and all was right with the world.
HTH
I appreciate any feedback you guys can provide with the added comments and my photos I just posted.
Thanks again everyone!
Nice catch Evil-I. Actually the lower timing cover is brand new. I replaced it because I had cracked the original one when trying to pull off the pulleys. The upper cover is in very good shape. They only go on one way so not much room for error. Based on your suggestion I just checked the inside of both covers and there are zero wear marks on either one. Maybe one of the new pulleys is not turning as it should? They should free spin, correct?
I did notice something else. I manually turned the front camshaft again 1x and the marks on all three locations, the two camshafts, and the crankshaft all lined up as desired. However, the belt on the front side of the camshaft was loose, I mean not seating in the teeth of the camshaft. Moreoever, there was some play between the front camshaft and the front of the crankshaft but the belt was very tight on the back side of the crankshaft to the rear camshaft. Also the belt was tight between the rear and front camshafts. I then turned the front camshaft 1x more and the two camshaft marks are lined up but the belt skipped one tooth on the crankshaft, I could feel/hear it pop and now the crankshaft no longer lines up with it’s mark. I wonder if I take the belt off, and turn the crankshaft to line up if I’ll be good to go. Possibly I didn’t get it as tight as I thought on the front side when I installed the belt the first time?
Pictures attached.
**NOTE ** I think I just realized part of my error with this method. I should propbably spin the system from the crankshaft, not the camshaft which would properly tension the belt on the front side of the crankshaft?
Sorry guys, I’m just a newb trying to learn.
Here are the pics after one turn, front camshaft, rear cs, and the crankshaft. All line up but note the teeth on the crankshaft are not quite on, again I think this is due to my turning with the camshaft sprocket not the crankshaft sprocket?Here are pics after a second turn, when I felt the belt slip one tooth. You’ll notice the Crankshaft is now off by one tooth. I’m thinking I can probably take the belt off, manually turn the crankshaft one tooth and put the belt back on? Just curious why the wear is happening on the outside per Evil-I’s comment/observation. Covers are in great shape and NOT rubbing on the belt.
Rear camshaft lines up – sorry for blurry photo
Front camshaft lines up
Forgive me as I didn’t mention this. I purchased a timing belt kit so I replaced the water pump, the idler pulley, the tensioner pulley and the hydraulic plunger along with the timing belt. I was aware of the rear cam shaft moving with the belt off and it did in fact do that despite my efforts to hold it in place with a sprocket tool. Thus before I put everything back together the first time, I made sure that I moved the rear camshaft back to the alignment marks, it was maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. Thus, all three alignment marks and the marks on the belt were all in sync before I put it together the first time. Before pulling the pin on the plunger, I went through two full rotations of the front cam shaft, pulled the pin on the plunger and did two more full rotations. Everything appeared to be fine at that time, moving well, and no grinding or bumping noises. If you look at my picture, I think if I rotate some more, I can get the crank marks to line up properly but the lines on the belt will most certainly be off. Maybe that’s not an issue, I don’t know. Remember, I got the errors once. Then after clearing the codes the errors haven’t come back.
Oh, also I did use clamps on the belt while during reassembly so it def didn’t move and again I checked it numerous times before closing it up.
Appreciate any advice.
