Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I think it’s somewhat ironic that the way to see if it’s actually the starter is to bang on the starter and see if it cranks. And it did, but it didn’t sound pretty at all. So it was replaced. 🙂
SOLVED! Had current to starter! It was the starter! Replaced starter and all is well. And yes, I got help replacing the starter to be sure it was done right 🙂
Clutch switch is clicking and was working prior to changing battery. Since problem happened when I changed the battery (the old battery would still crank the car slowly – in other words, it was not dead). I have visually checked wiring around battery and even moved wires around while friend tried to start the car (yes, this was done carefully using insulated pliers) but no change. Tomorrow I can get car on a lift and, with help from a pro, will figure this out. I’ll post outcome. Thanks for input.
No clicking noise from solenoid. So I figure wire or fuse. Car is park on a side-slope (level as far as rolling). Makes it a pain to jack or move. This type of electrical is my weak-point as far as working on car. I have volt/ohm but deciding where to hook it up has me confused.
I’m going to try to get a meter on the cables tomorrow. Hard to reach where the car is parked. Theft light is on when I lock the car but unlocked it never comes on or flashes. I figure it’s a wire (or a fuse).
I’m old school on this stuff but I do not hear the click of a solenoid if that still applies to newer cars.
I appreciate the comments. To clarify, expensive on I purchased only shows the pressure when on the valve stem (as in momentary while the air pressure is actually sending pressure to the gauge). But it is not accurate. I want one the locks in the highest level of pressure until I release it AND it needs to be accurate. Since I’m using it on cars, I prefer one that reads to maximum of 60 pounds. And almost all of the ones I have say they are accurate to within 2 pounds – but they are not. I’ll check into the gauges already recommended. I was wondering if anyone has done their own independent testing to see if the gauge they now use is accurate. Something I found interesting yesterday: I was checking the pressure on an older Miata and got 32 on three wheels and 30 on one (using the gauge I feel is the most accurate) – I figured that was a little low so I checked the sticker on the driver’s door and it said 26! I have not seen that low a number in years!
I got a great Equus/Innova from HB Tools. I got the one that let’s me also read codes prior to OBD II (like in my 94 Mustang GT) and still read engine codes in about everything else. It does not read Air Bag codes (I think that’s right). Anyway, just check out JB Tools. And when I ordered it from JB I also priced it at Advance and on Amazon and JB beat both (Advance was a lot higher – and I like Advance). I got a 31403. It’s the one that does read OBD II plus earlier codes and it comes with the adaptors so you can read the earlier codes. I just checked online and their price is currently higher than what I had to pay so you may want to shop around. I do like the Equus units. If you do not need to read pre-OBD II codes you can get one that is cheaper OR one that does more with modern (96 and up) cars.
Take the test drive. If the pro mechanic does not then, in essence, the customer does. Sometimes the test drive needs to be done for 40 or more miles and then solicit the customer to help you with that (as long as a reoccurring issue will probably not result in stranding the customer some where). To some degree you have to know your customer as to whether the customer should be the one doing the test drive.
If you have a shop you trust and they are sure $1800 will fix the engine and that no other problems are lurking then that could be the answer. The issue becomes what “other problems” could show up soon after spending the $1800 that you did not expect. The used engine idea also has the risk that the used engine is not in very good shape (you just don’t know). In my 94 Mustang I was faced with similar issues and opted to spend $3000 to get a professionally rebuilt engine. The install cost me another $700 on top of the engine purchase – but I ended up with a great engine. Does it now mean that have more money invested in the 94 than it is worth and the answer is YES. But it’s what I wanted to do. And I plan to keep the car for a number of years. I guess I’m trying to say that without spending more than your planned budget, you will be taking on a fair amount of risk. It’s not the answer you want but it’s the answer you need.
The issue for the current engine is how much damage was done. Presuming you are a novice at engine repair (basically I am as far as doing it myself), then you need to have someone determine, to the best of their ability, and without spending too much time and money on it, whether the engine is worth rebuilding. If the damage is “minimal” the repair could come under your budget of $1,500. You have not stated the mileage on the engine and that is important to know. Another factor will be how long you ran the engine after it “blew.” And there are varying degrees of blowing up an engine. You should also consider the overall condition of the Explorer especially the transmission. For $1,500, and if the damage is severe, you may have two options: 1) doing a lot of the rebuilding work yourself (if you have that ability/training) or 2) putting (or having someone do it for you) a used replacement engine in the Explorer (possibly from a wrecked Explorer where the engine area was not compromised). Many salvage yards will have an engine for you with some coming with a limited warranty. But your budget for repair may not be enough for even the salvage yard engine unless you are qualified to do the install yourself. Unless you already have a shop you trust and have a good contact at a trustworthy salvage yard, you will want to get advice from folks in your community that know places you can trust. A budget of $1500 is not enough for a rebuilt engine and way too low for a crate motor.
Problem seems to be heat shields near catalytic converter. Tapping them made the same resonance we were hearing in car. They were not loose but one definitely made more noise when tapped. So, re-bent them slightly. Then found the closest mountain which happens to be the pull from the NC border to Galax VA on I-77. And we got the noise to repeat but much less and only at certain RPMs during hard pull. My original post said noise coming from under the hood, but this time did more checking and realized it was coming from under the car. Feel confident that no damage is being done to anything. Apparently, the shields super-heat during a hard pull (makes sense they would be their hottest) since engine is working hard and pumping out a lot of exhaust. Closing this case as solved.