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Hi Eric,
I wanted to get your opinion on piston slap. In my case it presents as a knocking noise that only occurs in winter months when the engine is cold. It goes away as the engine warms up. I have no performance issues at all.
This is on a 2004 Subaru Forester with 103,000 miles. I’ve had it 7 years, and this car has had good oil change history since new. This has been a great car and I intend to keep it, the only things needed in the coming year will be new struts and new tires, and so before spending that money I wanted to get your opinion. I do not mind this noise, But want to know if you feel this sort of thing is a harmless noise consistent with age and not a more serious and detrimental condition. Are there any tests you would think of doing if you were checking this car out yourself?Hi Eric,
Watching the machine shop videos of your engine build, I was interested in how the choice of head gasket is made. We got some of Master Yoda (Kevin Frische’s) thought process behind it, as well as the features of that particular gasket, in your engine painting video. Were you involved in choosing the head gasket or did you just let Master Yoda choose? Since you can’t exactly look up a head gasket for a custom engine by Make and Model, how did you narrow down to the choice of coating, number of layers, thickness, and sizing? I imagine much of this just came down to Kevin’s experience but I would be interested to hear any insights on the process.Thanks for the machine shop episodes, very interesting. A question I have is if the block is staying in the car and only the head is going to the shop, what is the proper way to clean and prepare the head gasket surface on the block, especially for an aluminum block which are more delicate?
Hi,
The machine shop vids are really interesting, thanks for sharing that info.
Question, if the block is not being machined, what is correct procedure for cleaning and preparing the head gasket surface of the block? Particularly if it is aluminum as those are delicate.Hi Eric,
What is your process for cleaning and preparing an aluminum engine block for head gasket replacement? Same goes for head itself, or do you always have a machine shop resurface the head?Thanks for the point about thickness. I didn’t measure it, I don’t have the tool to do that. I’d be shocked if they were really to thin right out of the box. However it is something to consider.
And you are right about the whole rotor having the marks, even where the pads didn’t touch it. This was definitely not created by the pads.they are brand new, I didn’t do any resurfacing. I agree it looks like they were pushed too fast through a lathe.
Thanks for all the replies.
I was looking into rust converter, but the ones I found had an upper temperature limit of 200 degrees, I thought this might be cutting it a little close for an oil pan that close to the exhaust. On the other hand, there is high temp rustoleum that doesn’t require a primer and it was rated for much higher than that. I wonder if I’ll get acceptable results for a few years with the rustoleum. Thanks again for the help.OK looking at it fresh today, I guess it wasn’t such a big deal, I lifted the wheel off the ground and rotated it until it fit back in. I thought there was supposed to be a snap ring holding it in but I don’t feel anything else in the boot now. Are these just loose in there or did it slip past the snap ring?