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Just so that I can judge my intuition: would the fact that the car is able to start but suffers under the ABS problem load indicate alternator issues, or could bad battery connections cause a problem?
My ABS light is on, but it has been on for the past 20K miles or so with no presenting symptoms. I’ll see about pulling the codes though to shed some light on the situation.
Just so that I can judge my intuition: would the fact that the car is able to start but suffers under the ABS problem load indicate alternator issues, or could bad battery connections cause a problem?
My ABS light is on, but it has been on for the past 20K miles or so with no presenting symptoms. I’ll see about pulling the codes though to shed some light on the situation.
94 Accord. I did an image search for oilite and those look exactly like what I’ve got in the middle of the new flywheel.
94 Accord. I did an image search for oilite and those look exactly like what I’ve got in the middle of the new flywheel.
I should probably be a bit more specific:
The residue was not around the seal itself – it was on the surface between the seal housing and the engine. The seal replacement kit came with a gasket (one of those flimsy sort of paperish things cut to fit between the back of the housing and the engine). When I originally removed the seal and housing there was not a gasket, just the residue which I assume was the sealant.
Ended up just using the gasket that came with this kit. Although, unfortunately, I over-torqued the very last bolt when reattaching the housing and broke off the head. It’s one of ten other bolts though and that seal housing was kind of a PITA to get off of the oil pan so I left it be. Fingers crossed…
I should probably be a bit more specific:
The residue was not around the seal itself – it was on the surface between the seal housing and the engine. The seal replacement kit came with a gasket (one of those flimsy sort of paperish things cut to fit between the back of the housing and the engine). When I originally removed the seal and housing there was not a gasket, just the residue which I assume was the sealant.
Ended up just using the gasket that came with this kit. Although, unfortunately, I over-torqued the very last bolt when reattaching the housing and broke off the head. It’s one of ten other bolts though and that seal housing was kind of a PITA to get off of the oil pan so I left it be. Fingers crossed…
barneyb: great suggestion. I think you might have saved my project.
I got a 3/4″ breaker bar. In addition to my cheater pole I probably had 1.5m of leverage, but not even that broke the nut. So I said screw it and decided to pull the driveshafts anyway.
I have all the room I need on the passenger side (where the traanny is) since that nut gave way. By popping the ball joint I had enough room to pull the driver side shaft and get off the intermediate shaft. Now I think I can finally drop this transmission and replace my clutch.
Feel a bit silly after spending so much time and effort on that little bastard of a nut, but all’s well that ends well I suppose. Thanks for the help everyone!
barneyb: great suggestion. I think you might have saved my project.
I got a 3/4″ breaker bar. In addition to my cheater pole I probably had 1.5m of leverage, but not even that broke the nut. So I said screw it and decided to pull the driveshafts anyway.
I have all the room I need on the passenger side (where the traanny is) since that nut gave way. By popping the ball joint I had enough room to pull the driver side shaft and get off the intermediate shaft. Now I think I can finally drop this transmission and replace my clutch.
Feel a bit silly after spending so much time and effort on that little bastard of a nut, but all’s well that ends well I suppose. Thanks for the help everyone!
God rest the soul of another 1/2″ breaker bar. Socket twisted clean off the end. Off to Harbor Freight to pick up a 3/4″ breaker…at least they’re having a big holiday sale at the moment.
If this nut does turn out to be “unbreakable” what sort of recourse do I have for removing it? Would it be possible to drill it off without damaging the threading?
God rest the soul of another 1/2″ breaker bar. Socket twisted clean off the end. Off to Harbor Freight to pick up a 3/4″ breaker…at least they’re having a big holiday sale at the moment.
If this nut does turn out to be “unbreakable” what sort of recourse do I have for removing it? Would it be possible to drill it off without damaging the threading?
Thanks for the reply. The breaker bars are 1/2″ socket width and 24″ long Husky brand from Home Depot – I’ve actually only lost one of those which bent at the socket hinge joint.
Haven’t lost any actual sockets, either, but had several 1/2″ socket extenders snap clean off where the extender meets the actual socket. The extender and 36mm for the axle nut I just picked up at O’Reilly’s, so not sure where those rank on the quality scale.
Initially I used some cheap electrical conduit pipe for a cheater, but that bent so I upgraded to a 1/4″ thick 24″ long solid steel pipe and that has been solid. I hit the nut with some PB Blaster and a propane torch. That helped break loose the passenger side nut, but no dice on the driver’s side.
I don’t suppose I could leave the driver side be? The tranny is on the passenger side and I’ve got that drivershaft out so the only thing preventing me from pulling the transmission at this point is that other axle.
Thanks for the reply. The breaker bars are 1/2″ socket width and 24″ long Husky brand from Home Depot – I’ve actually only lost one of those which bent at the socket hinge joint.
Haven’t lost any actual sockets, either, but had several 1/2″ socket extenders snap clean off where the extender meets the actual socket. The extender and 36mm for the axle nut I just picked up at O’Reilly’s, so not sure where those rank on the quality scale.
Initially I used some cheap electrical conduit pipe for a cheater, but that bent so I upgraded to a 1/4″ thick 24″ long solid steel pipe and that has been solid. I hit the nut with some PB Blaster and a propane torch. That helped break loose the passenger side nut, but no dice on the driver’s side.
I don’t suppose I could leave the driver side be? The tranny is on the passenger side and I’ve got that drivershaft out so the only thing preventing me from pulling the transmission at this point is that other axle.