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I know some Subaru’s you almost have to remove the head because the valves are under the cam. What I think I’ll do is pull the valve cover and if it has removable rocker arms I’ll take them off and if I can get to valves maybe I can fabricate a valve spring compressor to get to the seals. I thought if I was to remove the heads I might as well go through the whole engine.
Well, had it towed to Casper Wyoming, cost $430.00. Their scan tool said it was a bad turbo, cost $4500.00. Went home to New Mexico and returned when it was done, cost $900.00. In hindsight I think it would of been ok to drive it. I wish I could have taken my truck and 5th wheel home cause I think I could have fixed it myself. Removed the turbo, freed up the vanes in the turbo, maybe replaced the actuator and put it back in. I’m in the process of putting a lift pump in and I’m using a lubricity additive in the fuel because the next thing to go will be the injection pump and it will take out the whole fuel system at a cost of between $10,000.00 and $12,000.00. I’ve read a bunch of horror stories about the cp4 pump going south. I’ve got to much money in this truck now so I’ll drive it till it dies. Pretty expensive trip to Wyoming.
Thanks for help
RayI think I’ll go ahead and have it towed. I drove a lot yesterday and what ever it is it will be big bucks to fix it. Wish I was home I think I could do it myself.
Thanks for the help.
MartinThanks, it is 68 miles to Casper, do you think I should have it towed or just drive it? I drove it quite a bit yesterday.
The truck has 110,000 miles and the fluid has never be changed or flushed. The spin on filter has been changed twice. Kinda dirty.
I could have sworn there was a relay involved in there some where but you were right about the shift release. I knew there was a mechanical shift release but I didn’t know there was an electrical release. When I put my hand on that module and push the brakes you can feel the contacts meet when it is in park. When the shifter is in drive there is no click. I’ve isolated the circuit but have not located the short. I think this might end being a problem I have to live with.
Thanks for the help.
Ray ThomasThanks for the information. I don’t have any type of scan tool or any equipment like that so I bought a new knock sensor. I installed it and then got the p0325 plus a p0400 code too. That pertains to the egr system so took all of that stuff apart and cleaned it. There was a tube from the manifold to the bottom of the transducer that was totally plugged with carbon. Cleaned that, cleared the codes, started the engine and haven’t gotten codes codes for 3 days I’ll keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for all the help.
RayI’ll go back and try to trace the wires all the way back to the computer. I took the egr valve off and cleaned it and it seems to functioning ok when I put vacuum to it the plunger is moving. How does the cooling system affect the knock sensor? The engine seems to run fine but I noticed the gas mileage dropped 2 miles/gal.
Thanks for responding.
Ray