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Ended up finding the leak. Blew my mind where it was. The back of the reservoir has a square plastic block that slides into the mounting bracket. The top of that block sits right under the reservoir lid (not the cap but a big screw on lid) and the crack was right across the top of that block, under the lid. Ended up checking some salvage yards for a new reservoir, but ended up ordering the whole assembly from the dealer for $120. I cleaned and checked that damn reservoir four times before I found that crack. It must have only been opening up when pressure built up because I only saw it by chance after a long drive when I popped the hood to add washer fluid.
Anyway, problem solved!
Ended up finding the leak. Blew my mind where it was. The back of the reservoir has a square plastic block that slides into the mounting bracket. The top of that block sits right under the reservoir lid (not the cap but a big screw on lid) and the crack was right across the top of that block, under the lid. Ended up checking some salvage yards for a new reservoir, but ended up ordering the whole assembly from the dealer for $120. I cleaned and checked that damn reservoir four times before I found that crack. It must have only been opening up when pressure built up because I only saw it by chance after a long drive when I popped the hood to add washer fluid.
Anyway, problem solved!
I was thinking something like that as well, but the power assist doesn’t cut out unless the fluid level is low low low, which has happened twice. Hopefully it hasn’t wrecked the pump yet. As long the proper fluid level is maintained, steering is normal.
I was thinking something like that as well, but the power assist doesn’t cut out unless the fluid level is low low low, which has happened twice. Hopefully it hasn’t wrecked the pump yet. As long the proper fluid level is maintained, steering is normal.
The filter is attached to the underside of the reservoir cap. I suppose to keep anything from entering the pressure relief from the outside? :huh: So that being clogged wouldn’t be an issue as far as I can tell. Unless maybe it’s not allowing pressure to escape until it gets really high. I can try and clean it up or grab another cap and check that out though.
I’m going to have to get some more research done on how to pressure test this system and see what I come up with.
The filter is attached to the underside of the reservoir cap. I suppose to keep anything from entering the pressure relief from the outside? :huh: So that being clogged wouldn’t be an issue as far as I can tell. Unless maybe it’s not allowing pressure to escape until it gets really high. I can try and clean it up or grab another cap and check that out though.
I’m going to have to get some more research done on how to pressure test this system and see what I come up with.
Do the simplest thing first and make sure the coolant level is correct before you start testing things.
If the cap is leaking it could be a few issues.
1. There is too much pressure in the cooling system and the valve on the cap is venting, which will expel coolant. This can be caused by a clog in the system or an overheating issue, which could stem from a number of things.
2. The cap could be faulty and is leakingIf the car was left running for a long period of time at a standstill it may not have been getting enough air flow over the radiator to keep the system cool and the pressure cap could have vented the excess pressure from overheating. Check and see if the radiator fan is functioning properly (cycling on and off). If there is a coolant temp gauge, what was it at when you noticed the leak?
If the fan is functioning properly and the temp isn’t reading high, then I would suspect a faulty pressure cap or a clog. I’m pretty sure you can rent a tool to test the pressure cap at several auto parts stores and if it won’t hold pressure, just get a new cap. If the cap is holding pressure, you may have a clog and may need to flush the system out at least.
Do the simplest thing first and make sure the coolant level is correct before you start testing things.
If the cap is leaking it could be a few issues.
1. There is too much pressure in the cooling system and the valve on the cap is venting, which will expel coolant. This can be caused by a clog in the system or an overheating issue, which could stem from a number of things.
2. The cap could be faulty and is leakingIf the car was left running for a long period of time at a standstill it may not have been getting enough air flow over the radiator to keep the system cool and the pressure cap could have vented the excess pressure from overheating. Check and see if the radiator fan is functioning properly (cycling on and off). If there is a coolant temp gauge, what was it at when you noticed the leak?
If the fan is functioning properly and the temp isn’t reading high, then I would suspect a faulty pressure cap or a clog. I’m pretty sure you can rent a tool to test the pressure cap at several auto parts stores and if it won’t hold pressure, just get a new cap. If the cap is holding pressure, you may have a clog and may need to flush the system out at least.
First thing to mention is that even brand new drums/rotors may need to be resurfaced/finished before they are put on a car. Even though they are new, they are still prone to being slightly off especially some of the cheaper ones available from aftermarket suppliers.
Also, all ABS systems will cause the brake pedal to pulse when they are operating. It’s just how they work.
Now that those things are out of the way, In order for a brake pulsation to be felt in the steering wheel, there would have to be a vibration being carried to the rest of the steering system, that could mean worn ball joints or tie rod ends, maybe even wheel bearings.
Lastly, and not to bash the ladies or mothers in general, have you been able to recreate the issue or does it only happen when she drives? I know my mom has an obscenely heavy brake foot and doesn’t even bother to stop until I see a good 10 years of my life flashing before me when I’m in her car. What I mean is, could it just be the way she drives?
First thing to mention is that even brand new drums/rotors may need to be resurfaced/finished before they are put on a car. Even though they are new, they are still prone to being slightly off especially some of the cheaper ones available from aftermarket suppliers.
Also, all ABS systems will cause the brake pedal to pulse when they are operating. It’s just how they work.
Now that those things are out of the way, In order for a brake pulsation to be felt in the steering wheel, there would have to be a vibration being carried to the rest of the steering system, that could mean worn ball joints or tie rod ends, maybe even wheel bearings.
Lastly, and not to bash the ladies or mothers in general, have you been able to recreate the issue or does it only happen when she drives? I know my mom has an obscenely heavy brake foot and doesn’t even bother to stop until I see a good 10 years of my life flashing before me when I’m in her car. What I mean is, could it just be the way she drives?
Cap is solid. As far as a cap seal is concerned, there really isn’t one. On this car there is just a kinda sponge like filter under the pressure relief… hole. That hole is where I believe the fluid is leaving from. In my case that filter is constantly saturated in fluid which is another reason I think it’s a system pressure issue and not really a leak.
Overfilling isn’t an issue in this case either. At least whenever I’ve checked/refilled it. 😉
I’ll see if I can get a picture or two up tomorrow afternoon.
Cap is solid. As far as a cap seal is concerned, there really isn’t one. On this car there is just a kinda sponge like filter under the pressure relief… hole. That hole is where I believe the fluid is leaving from. In my case that filter is constantly saturated in fluid which is another reason I think it’s a system pressure issue and not really a leak.
Overfilling isn’t an issue in this case either. At least whenever I’ve checked/refilled it. 😉
I’ll see if I can get a picture or two up tomorrow afternoon.