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I’ve thought about a coolant pressure test actually. Should the car be warmed up with thermostat open for this, or would it be ok to do it cold?
I’ve thought about a coolant pressure test actually. Should the car be warmed up with thermostat open for this, or would it be ok to do it cold?
An impact wrench is square drive used to drive sockets. They are generally more powerful than an impact driver which is 1/4 hex and takes insert bits. You can use a 1/4 hex to a socket adapter, but you loose quite a bit of torque through the adapter.
If you’re primarily driving sockets go for an impact driver, if you’re using it as a DIY at home you might like the impact driver better.
An impact wrench is square drive used to drive sockets. They are generally more powerful than an impact driver which is 1/4 hex and takes insert bits. You can use a 1/4 hex to a socket adapter, but you loose quite a bit of torque through the adapter.
If you’re primarily driving sockets go for an impact driver, if you’re using it as a DIY at home you might like the impact driver better.
If its a screw in piston you don’t need the plate. think rear brakes most of the time.
If it’s front brakes, or not screw in type, you use the plate like a screw clamp to compress the piston. plate goes at the outer end of the caliper, and the end pushing against the piston to compress it down.
If its a screw in piston you don’t need the plate. think rear brakes most of the time.
If it’s front brakes, or not screw in type, you use the plate like a screw clamp to compress the piston. plate goes at the outer end of the caliper, and the end pushing against the piston to compress it down.
find a used IR231C at a pawn shop. they’d be about that. They go for 120 new
find a used IR231C at a pawn shop. they’d be about that. They go for 120 new
Look at the air requirements for a good impact wrench. they want 3-5 scfm @ 90+ psi. A 4 gal pancake won’t be able to sustain that scfm and you’ll be waiting on your tank to fill before you can hit it again in small bursts.
I have a 33gal 3.9scfm craftsman compressor for under 300 that I got at the after thanksgiving sale a few years ago and it’s been good. came with an el cheapo impact wrench, air hammer, and air ratchet. Since then I’ve purchased nailers, sanders, cut off tools, etc.
You’d be fine with nailers on a pancake, but not any air hammers, cut off tools, sanders, etc. If I were you, I’d get at least a 26gal compressor minimum. a 33 is decent, but when mine dies I’m getting a 60gal belt drive 240v for the garage.
Look at the air requirements for a good impact wrench. they want 3-5 scfm @ 90+ psi. A 4 gal pancake won’t be able to sustain that scfm and you’ll be waiting on your tank to fill before you can hit it again in small bursts.
I have a 33gal 3.9scfm craftsman compressor for under 300 that I got at the after thanksgiving sale a few years ago and it’s been good. came with an el cheapo impact wrench, air hammer, and air ratchet. Since then I’ve purchased nailers, sanders, cut off tools, etc.
You’d be fine with nailers on a pancake, but not any air hammers, cut off tools, sanders, etc. If I were you, I’d get at least a 26gal compressor minimum. a 33 is decent, but when mine dies I’m getting a 60gal belt drive 240v for the garage.
Another consideration will be battery life and longevity. If you’re a diy and don’t use it a lot, you can kiss your batteries good-bye in a year or so. If you regularly use it you might get some additional time out of the batteries before you have to buy new ones. And like I found with my Ridgid 24v stuff, they don’t make it anymore so I can’t do much with the tools without a battery. I like Ryobi’s form factor where they have different batteries over the years but the same plug on the end so all their tools work with all the batteries.
If the pro-grade impact tools will have the longevity in their batteries, or at least have replacements available, then I think they’ll do well.
I have a 33gal craftsman compressor at home to power my impact tools. never have to worry about charging a battery, or a spark from the motor ignitinng gas vapors working on a fuel system. I also have some cheap impact drivers that’ll be ok on 1/4″ and some 3/8″ fasteners that I’ll use on stuff that doesn’t need the balls of my IR231c
Another consideration will be battery life and longevity. If you’re a diy and don’t use it a lot, you can kiss your batteries good-bye in a year or so. If you regularly use it you might get some additional time out of the batteries before you have to buy new ones. And like I found with my Ridgid 24v stuff, they don’t make it anymore so I can’t do much with the tools without a battery. I like Ryobi’s form factor where they have different batteries over the years but the same plug on the end so all their tools work with all the batteries.
If the pro-grade impact tools will have the longevity in their batteries, or at least have replacements available, then I think they’ll do well.
I have a 33gal craftsman compressor at home to power my impact tools. never have to worry about charging a battery, or a spark from the motor ignitinng gas vapors working on a fuel system. I also have some cheap impact drivers that’ll be ok on 1/4″ and some 3/8″ fasteners that I’ll use on stuff that doesn’t need the balls of my IR231c
I believe Ihave solved the issue. I got an AC Delco vent valve solenoid off of Amazon for $18. I was able to replace it myself without dropping the tank.
Once I had the rear up on jack stands I was able to fit my arm between the frame member and the body and un-hook one hose and the electrical connection. The other hose was out of reach, so I had to use a hack-saw to cut the nipple off the part. then I used some really long needle nose to pull the nipple from the quick connect while I used a set of 90o pliers to squeeze the release tabs.
I also had an issue hooking that same hose back up. I used a set of hose pliers to reach the hose and slide it onto the new part.
Been running fine all week with no more check engine light. Thanks to all you here who helped me diagnose and resolve this issue
I believe Ihave solved the issue. I got an AC Delco vent valve solenoid off of Amazon for $18. I was able to replace it myself without dropping the tank.
Once I had the rear up on jack stands I was able to fit my arm between the frame member and the body and un-hook one hose and the electrical connection. The other hose was out of reach, so I had to use a hack-saw to cut the nipple off the part. then I used some really long needle nose to pull the nipple from the quick connect while I used a set of 90o pliers to squeeze the release tabs.
I also had an issue hooking that same hose back up. I used a set of hose pliers to reach the hose and slide it onto the new part.
Been running fine all week with no more check engine light. Thanks to all you here who helped me diagnose and resolve this issue
I crawled back under again today and re-did the resistance check on the vent solenoid and it was open. I wanted to make darn sure before I dropped the tank. This time I went a little further and back probed the connector pink wire and saw 12v, but 0v on the white going back to the PCM, so that further confirmed an open circuit on the vent solenoid.
It’ll probably be a weekend or two before I can do this, but I’ll update this thread
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