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  • in reply to: Chevy Silverado coolant leak #574447
    AndrewAndrew
    Participant

      I’ve thought about a coolant pressure test actually. Should the car be warmed up with thermostat open for this, or would it be ok to do it cold?

      in reply to: Chevy Silverado coolant leak #581056
      AndrewAndrew
      Participant

        I’ve thought about a coolant pressure test actually. Should the car be warmed up with thermostat open for this, or would it be ok to do it cold?

        in reply to: impact wrench vs impact driver? #569462
        AndrewAndrew
        Participant

          An impact wrench is square drive used to drive sockets. They are generally more powerful than an impact driver which is 1/4 hex and takes insert bits. You can use a 1/4 hex to a socket adapter, but you loose quite a bit of torque through the adapter.

          If you’re primarily driving sockets go for an impact driver, if you’re using it as a DIY at home you might like the impact driver better.

          in reply to: impact wrench vs impact driver? #575995
          AndrewAndrew
          Participant

            An impact wrench is square drive used to drive sockets. They are generally more powerful than an impact driver which is 1/4 hex and takes insert bits. You can use a 1/4 hex to a socket adapter, but you loose quite a bit of torque through the adapter.

            If you’re primarily driving sockets go for an impact driver, if you’re using it as a DIY at home you might like the impact driver better.

            in reply to: re: Rear disc brake tool #554069
            AndrewAndrew
            Participant

              If its a screw in piston you don’t need the plate. think rear brakes most of the time.

              If it’s front brakes, or not screw in type, you use the plate like a screw clamp to compress the piston. plate goes at the outer end of the caliper, and the end pushing against the piston to compress it down.

              in reply to: re: Rear disc brake tool #549241
              AndrewAndrew
              Participant

                If its a screw in piston you don’t need the plate. think rear brakes most of the time.

                If it’s front brakes, or not screw in type, you use the plate like a screw clamp to compress the piston. plate goes at the outer end of the caliper, and the end pushing against the piston to compress it down.

                in reply to: Impact wrench #554068
                AndrewAndrew
                Participant

                  find a used IR231C at a pawn shop. they’d be about that. They go for 120 new

                  in reply to: Impact wrench #549239
                  AndrewAndrew
                  Participant

                    find a used IR231C at a pawn shop. they’d be about that. They go for 120 new

                    in reply to: Looking to buy an affordable air compressor… #554067
                    AndrewAndrew
                    Participant

                      Look at the air requirements for a good impact wrench. they want 3-5 scfm @ 90+ psi. A 4 gal pancake won’t be able to sustain that scfm and you’ll be waiting on your tank to fill before you can hit it again in small bursts.

                      I have a 33gal 3.9scfm craftsman compressor for under 300 that I got at the after thanksgiving sale a few years ago and it’s been good. came with an el cheapo impact wrench, air hammer, and air ratchet. Since then I’ve purchased nailers, sanders, cut off tools, etc.

                      You’d be fine with nailers on a pancake, but not any air hammers, cut off tools, sanders, etc. If I were you, I’d get at least a 26gal compressor minimum. a 33 is decent, but when mine dies I’m getting a 60gal belt drive 240v for the garage.

                      in reply to: Looking to buy an affordable air compressor… #549238
                      AndrewAndrew
                      Participant

                        Look at the air requirements for a good impact wrench. they want 3-5 scfm @ 90+ psi. A 4 gal pancake won’t be able to sustain that scfm and you’ll be waiting on your tank to fill before you can hit it again in small bursts.

                        I have a 33gal 3.9scfm craftsman compressor for under 300 that I got at the after thanksgiving sale a few years ago and it’s been good. came with an el cheapo impact wrench, air hammer, and air ratchet. Since then I’ve purchased nailers, sanders, cut off tools, etc.

                        You’d be fine with nailers on a pancake, but not any air hammers, cut off tools, sanders, etc. If I were you, I’d get at least a 26gal compressor minimum. a 33 is decent, but when mine dies I’m getting a 60gal belt drive 240v for the garage.

                        in reply to: pneumatic versus cordless #554066
                        AndrewAndrew
                        Participant

                          Another consideration will be battery life and longevity. If you’re a diy and don’t use it a lot, you can kiss your batteries good-bye in a year or so. If you regularly use it you might get some additional time out of the batteries before you have to buy new ones. And like I found with my Ridgid 24v stuff, they don’t make it anymore so I can’t do much with the tools without a battery. I like Ryobi’s form factor where they have different batteries over the years but the same plug on the end so all their tools work with all the batteries.

                          If the pro-grade impact tools will have the longevity in their batteries, or at least have replacements available, then I think they’ll do well.

                          I have a 33gal craftsman compressor at home to power my impact tools. never have to worry about charging a battery, or a spark from the motor ignitinng gas vapors working on a fuel system. I also have some cheap impact drivers that’ll be ok on 1/4″ and some 3/8″ fasteners that I’ll use on stuff that doesn’t need the balls of my IR231c

                          in reply to: pneumatic versus cordless #549237
                          AndrewAndrew
                          Participant

                            Another consideration will be battery life and longevity. If you’re a diy and don’t use it a lot, you can kiss your batteries good-bye in a year or so. If you regularly use it you might get some additional time out of the batteries before you have to buy new ones. And like I found with my Ridgid 24v stuff, they don’t make it anymore so I can’t do much with the tools without a battery. I like Ryobi’s form factor where they have different batteries over the years but the same plug on the end so all their tools work with all the batteries.

                            If the pro-grade impact tools will have the longevity in their batteries, or at least have replacements available, then I think they’ll do well.

                            I have a 33gal craftsman compressor at home to power my impact tools. never have to worry about charging a battery, or a spark from the motor ignitinng gas vapors working on a fuel system. I also have some cheap impact drivers that’ll be ok on 1/4″ and some 3/8″ fasteners that I’ll use on stuff that doesn’t need the balls of my IR231c

                            in reply to: ’05 pontiac g6 P0455 #554040
                            AndrewAndrew
                            Participant

                              I believe Ihave solved the issue. I got an AC Delco vent valve solenoid off of Amazon for $18. I was able to replace it myself without dropping the tank.

                              Once I had the rear up on jack stands I was able to fit my arm between the frame member and the body and un-hook one hose and the electrical connection. The other hose was out of reach, so I had to use a hack-saw to cut the nipple off the part. then I used some really long needle nose to pull the nipple from the quick connect while I used a set of 90o pliers to squeeze the release tabs.

                              I also had an issue hooking that same hose back up. I used a set of hose pliers to reach the hose and slide it onto the new part.

                              Been running fine all week with no more check engine light. Thanks to all you here who helped me diagnose and resolve this issue

                              in reply to: ’05 pontiac g6 P0455 #549224
                              AndrewAndrew
                              Participant

                                I believe Ihave solved the issue. I got an AC Delco vent valve solenoid off of Amazon for $18. I was able to replace it myself without dropping the tank.

                                Once I had the rear up on jack stands I was able to fit my arm between the frame member and the body and un-hook one hose and the electrical connection. The other hose was out of reach, so I had to use a hack-saw to cut the nipple off the part. then I used some really long needle nose to pull the nipple from the quick connect while I used a set of 90o pliers to squeeze the release tabs.

                                I also had an issue hooking that same hose back up. I used a set of hose pliers to reach the hose and slide it onto the new part.

                                Been running fine all week with no more check engine light. Thanks to all you here who helped me diagnose and resolve this issue

                                in reply to: ’05 pontiac g6 P0455 #552099
                                AndrewAndrew
                                Participant

                                  I crawled back under again today and re-did the resistance check on the vent solenoid and it was open. I wanted to make darn sure before I dropped the tank. This time I went a little further and back probed the connector pink wire and saw 12v, but 0v on the white going back to the PCM, so that further confirmed an open circuit on the vent solenoid.

                                  It’ll probably be a weekend or two before I can do this, but I’ll update this thread

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